To clay or not to clay - that is the question

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makdaddy626

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Just got my order in from AG and looking forward to spending the 4th trying out some of the products. My question is, do I need to clay, and how safe is it to clay?

The truck (Black Sand Pearl - Tacoma) was purchased from the dealer less than a month ago but I don't how long it was on the lot before, the paint feels smooth to me with only the minor swirling you would expect on a new car.

I ordered the Pinnacle Clay Kit, but now am wondering if I should use it or not? I've never used clay before and don't know if the risk is worth the reward? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
From my experience and readings... clay is non-abrasive to the clear coat. Meaning there is no risk to using clay, as long as, you are working with a properly lubricated surface.
 
Thanks for the quick response. If I could alter the question a little, I'd love to know...

Does anyone have ANY horror stories of claying gone wrong?
 
IMO, claying is one of the most under-rated tools in the detailing world (even on new cars). If you're using OTC clays, you shouldn't have any problems scratching/marring the surface. Meg's red clay is about the only clay I can think of off the top of my head that might cause some marring.
 
mshu7, I see you have an '07 Taco with the TRD package listed in your sig. Any tips on detailing one? Planning on using Klasse AIO and WG DGPS - all applied by hand. Do you tape off the TRD graphics? Also, I've notice there's a thin rubber piece between the fender and the fender flare, it's so thin seems it would be a pain to tape, ANY advice would be appreciated.
 
Try the "bag" method. Put your hand in a plastic bag and run it over the surface. If it feels rough then you need to clay. claying isn't a must, but it does help.
 
mak,

I just got my Taco last week. Unfortunately, last night was the first night I had time to even WASH it :( . I took Wednesday - Friday off this week so I plan on doing a full detail one of those days.

I don't think you'll go wrong with Klasse AIO & WG DGPS. I've used the AIO (ordered more if that tells ya anything) but I've not used the WG DGPS. Lots of people love both products so I think you're good there. Since you're applying by hand, no need to tape off. You should be able to apply both products to the TRD graphics w/o any concerns.
 
I don't think you can clay wrong....actually you can. Just remember if you decide to clay to keep the surface lubricated or clay right after you washed the vehicle. Claying, in my opnion, is a must weather the vehicle is new or old. I've clayed brand new vehicles and you will be shocked at the contaminents that come of the vehicles. I was a skepting when I first started claying because I didn't bleave in it. Now that I've gotten my self quite deep into the detailing claying is your best friend to achive a great exterior looking vehicle...just my $0.02
 
I also feel claying is a must plus if you are puting a wax on after i feel it makes the wax go on and come off easier. I use clay before i wax and polish and i feel it makes the job easier to work on a smoother vehicle.
 
Ok gues, I'm going to give the clay a try. Thanks for all the advice, hopefully none of this will end in tears. ;)
 
whitespy9 said:
From my experience and readings... clay is non-abrasive to the clear coat. Meaning there is no risk to using clay, as long as, you are working with a properly lubricated surface.
Click to expand...
Not sure were you read that but its misinformation-clay contains abrasives!

How it works- detailer’s clay is formulated to remove surface contaminates from the paints, it contains abrasives (i.e. silica sand, calcium carbonate, alumina, ceramics, quartz, or silicon carbide) in an applicator (the malleable clay bar) the clay lubricant is doing the same thing for the clay's abrasives as the oils in a polish, which is providing surface lubrication. Contrary to popular belief it does not pull the metallic particles from the paint surface. The abrasives 'shear' the surface contaminates (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest imbedded in the paint, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage) the sheared particles are encapsulated by the clay. Clay being an abrasive product will remove a percentage of both natural and synthetic wax and most polymer sealants, therefore a paint surface protection should be applied after use.

:cheers:
 
Thanks you for posting the correct information. I guess what I was trying to get across is that the clay isn't going to harm your car's paint if used right.

TOGWT said:
Not sure were you read that but its misinformation-clay contains abrasives!

How it works- detailer’s clay is formulated to remove surface contaminates from the paints, it contains abrasives (i.e. silica sand, calcium carbonate, alumina, ceramics, quartz, or silicon carbide) in an applicator (the malleable clay bar) the clay lubricant is doing the same thing for the clay's abrasives as the oils in a polish, which is providing surface lubrication. Contrary to popular belief it does not pull the metallic particles from the paint surface. The abrasives 'shear' the surface contaminates (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest imbedded in the paint, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage) the sheared particles are encapsulated by the clay. Clay being an abrasive product will remove a percentage of both natural and synthetic wax and most polymer sealants, therefore a paint surface protection should be applied after use.

:cheers:
Click to expand...
 
trust me clay is abrasive... I just tested DP clay and poly clay under the lights. And I found marring with both bars. But, I applied DP 101 to the door and the next morning checked the results and no marring was visible under direct sun light. So, the point is, clay is imparitive to prep for polishing.
 
A1monky said:
...So, the point is, clay is imparitive to prep for polishing.
Click to expand...

Since I will not be "polishing" (other than the chemical version - Klasse AIO) are you saying I shouldn't clay? I don't have a PC.
 
A1monky said:
trust me clay is abrasive... I just tested DP clay and poly clay under the lights. And I found marring with both bars. But, I applied DP 101 to the door and the next morning checked the results and no marring was visible under direct sun light. So, the point is, clay is imparitive to prep for polishing.
Click to expand...

Same goes with me

Noticed that also on my car and a BMW X3 i clayed, so from now on I just clay when i know im polishing after. it doesnt mar much but in direct light its noticable.

On a Audi, i didnt see any marring so it probably depends on how hard the CC is.
 
Don't use much downward pressure. Use enough to keep the clay against the panel. Let the clay float accross the paint on a thin layer of lube. If you feel it grab on a dry spot stop and lube that area. You'll have it down in short order.
 
You dont have to use a PC. I didnt apply the DG101 w/ a PC.
Sorry is I mislead you, the Kaio should be sufficent, along with Wolfgang.
If you are unsure try a test panel like I did.
 
I used DG 101 by hand to correct the marring after, and that solved the problem, i dont know how much the Klasse will help, i never tryed it.

I did clay with lots of lube, no presure and the clay bar didnt grab once.

As A1monky says, test panel first and use good lights when inspecting.

This Is not ment to scare you from using the claybar, i have personaly only lightly marred two cars, and its not a common problem, and is easy to fix afters. And i still see the claybar as one of the most important product for me to get the end result i like..
 
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