Todd@Rupes need your thoughts

coolcobramatt

coolcobramatt

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Todd...I used my new Mark II le15 this past weekend and to my dismay had the following results. I used a Lake Country CCS 5.5" yellow pad @ speeds 4 and 5 to paint correct a new m3 for a friend. After only half the hood I noticed the center of the pad beginning to "cave in" for lack of a better term. It was also very warm to the touch. I knew something was up so I pulled the pad only to find the pad had literally melted to the hook and loop of the Rupes. It had gotten so hot the backing plate was fused to the pad. My only recourse was to completely pull the pad off, which caused the black part of the backing plate to rip off the Rupes. I am just a hobbiest so my Rupes does not get a workout and this is my fourth rupes (having owned two first gen le15's and a duetto). I've never seen it get so hot so fast and never had it melt the pad! Is my machine bad or what? I obviously need a new backing plate now. This thing isn't even a month old yet.

View attachment 41312View attachment 41313View attachment 41314View attachment 41315
 
My only thought is that there is a reason there are pads made specifically for long throw machines, and the CCS pad is not one of them. Good luck
 
Ive used Lake Country with all my other Rupes for years, never any issue. Plus AG recommended them long ago. I can't stand the Rupes pads...way too stiff, can't grip the surface and slings product everywhere.
 
Heat was the culprit of the pad failure.

There's a reason Rupes, Buff & Shine, Griot's Garage and Lake Country all have a hole in the center of their foam and microfiber pads designed for large throw machines. That design feature is to lower temperatures, thus increasing performance and longevity of the pad.

I would recommend:

1. Using a pad, preferably one manufactured by Rupes, designed for large throw machines.
2. Rotating your pad often. After you polish one section, take that pad off and replace it with another. Continue to alternate pads as you work your way around the vehicle.

autogeek_2268_496588033


buff-shine-low-pro-large-throw-foam-pads-5.gif


griots-garage-boss-6-5-inch-orange-correcting-pad-2-pack-1.gif


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:dblthumb2:
 
I will try those. Damn if I didn't stock up on ccs pads over winter.
 
coolcobramatt said:
Ive used Lake Country with all my other Rupes for years, never any issue. Plus AG recommended them long ago. I can't stand the Rupes pads...way too stiff, can't grip the surface and slings product everywhere.
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Recommended them a Long time ago... This is the new and improved tool. Embrace your upgrade. It only warns you with a label over the backing plate when you unbox it..
Use pads with holes in them.

...It'd be like buying a brand new Cadillac, and putting 13" Dayton wire wheels on it...

View attachment 41318

And then wondering why it doesn't ride like a Cadillac. Lol. Smh..
 
Eldorado2k said:
Recommended them a Long time ago... This is the new and improved tool. Embrace your upgrade. It only warns you with a label over the backing plate when you unbox it..
Use pads with holes in them.

...It'd be like buying a brand new Cadillac, and putting 13" Dayton wire wheels on it...

View attachment 41318

And then wondering why it doesn't ride like a Cadillac. Lol. Smh..
Click to expand...


Pads with no holes, Rupes LE15 (albeit Gen 1) right there in the pic.

Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System 5.5 Inch 6 Pack - Your Choice! :xyxthumbs:
 
Rsurfer said:
You can still use the ccs pads, just change them out more often.:props:
Click to expand...

This, and also keep the speed down. Like someone else mentioned, the Mark II is far more powerful (about 30%) than the Mark 1.

:dblthumb2:
 
Many have had no issues and good results with the new Meguiars thin foam discs as well as the Lake Country thin pro pads on the large throw machines. Thinner pads seem to disperse heat better as well as not get as hot to begin with.

I tried the HD Orbital pads (the ones with the hole in the middle) and I was not crazy about them. However, I did notice they did not get hot.
 
As a side note. When polishing that 370 Z this weekend with my GG21 w / 5" bp and Buff & Shine pads, it was heating them up too. I used 5 pads to do that little Z. Heat is killer to pads. These were all brand new pads too. As soon as I noticed it I backed the BOSS down a little and made sure to chnage the pad as soon as it began to heat up.
 
My names not Todd, but I'll throw my 2 cents in - it wasn't the machine heating up that caused the 'melt' but the friction and lack of airflow. The added pad rotation speed and torque of the Mark II is going to have more heat buildup. Odds are the tool itself wasn't hot at all and any heat was isolated simply to the foam and transferred to the backing plate.

The design and CELL STRUCTURE of the foam is going to become even more important in this situation. There is a lot more energy being pumped thru that pad now over the ES tool... even at lower speed settings.
 
coolcobramatt said:
Todd...I used my new Mark II le15 this past weekend and to my dismay had the following results. I used a Lake Country CCS 5.5" yellow pad @ speeds 4 and 5 to paint correct a new m3 for a friend. After only half the hood I noticed the center of the pad beginning to "cave in" for lack of a better term. It was also very warm to the touch. I knew something was up so I pulled the pad only to find the pad had literally melted to the hook and loop of the Rupes. It had gotten so hot the backing plate was fused to the pad. My only recourse was to completely pull the pad off, which caused the black part of the backing plate to rip off the Rupes. I am just a hobbiest so my Rupes does not get a workout and this is my fourth rupes (having owned two first gen le15's and a duetto). I've never seen it get so hot so fast and never had it melt the pad! Is my machine bad or what? I obviously need a new backing plate now. This thing isn't even a month old yet.

View attachment 41312View attachment 41313View attachment 41314 View attachment 41315
Click to expand...

wrong pad on the rupes you have to stay with the rupes system tool pads polises a win win
 
I have the original Rupes with the less powerful motor than yours. I get away with using Buff and Shine flat pads on it just fine, only I change the pad after EACH section pass. I keep 6-8 pads in rotation and switch them out after each section pass so they don't get overloaded with heat. Heat caused what happens to your pads, the CCS just aren't made for the abuse of a long throw polisher.

Don't fret, I learned this lesson the hard way too and ruined a bunch of perfectly good pads with excess heat.
 
Dylan@RUPES said:
My names not Todd, but I'll throw my 2 cents in - it wasn't the machine heating up that caused the 'melt' but the friction and lack of airflow. The added pad rotation speed and torque of the Mark II is going to have more heat buildup. Odds are the tool itself wasn't hot at all and any heat was isolated simply to the foam and transferred to the backing plate.

The design and CELL STRUCTURE of the foam is going to become even more important in this situation. There is a lot more energy being pumped thru that pad now over the ES tool... even at lower speed settings.
Click to expand...


You can be Todd if you like...this is the internet. You can be whoever you want to beIm the MAN
 
Thanks Dylan. Todd was the first name I found so I used him.

To the guys STILL posting "use the rupes pads". For the 5 millionth time I DON'T LIKE THE HARD FOAM PADS. I'll try a different pad but IT WON'T BE THE RUPES versions.
 
The problem with any long throw tool is that they stress the pad considerably more than a standard tool.

Each part of the system has to be considered - from the foam type, to the pad type, to the why the hook and loop attaches (strong sheer strength).

As far as the RUPES pads, I understand you don't like them. However, if they are primed according to our recommendations (run on speed 3 with 6 drops of product for about 30 seconds with firm pressure) the polish will soften the first few mm of the foam and this will present sling completely.

In fact, when I do training sessions I always show the priming technique first and make sure everybody is comfortable with that. I never wear an apron and (almost never) have any sling lines across my stomach.
 
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