I would say the majority of swirl marks are caused by improper washing techniques, which is why 99 percent of cars I see at the dealerships, washed with shop brushes, have swirl marks. Proper buffing technqiues do not instill swirl marks IME.
In all fairness, of course a compound is going to mar the paint as your hand is cannot replicate the conditions required to evenly break down the abrasives. However, polishing with a machine, which these products are designed for, will not. If you are saying that using a compound by hand is will cause a degredation in paint quality, I agree. By the same token, using a finishing polish by hand will not.
To truthfully look at it, I would be stuck on the fact that a rubbing compound is being compared to a finishing polish, and would judge the results on those merits only.
Most body shop guys I know do not know how to properly polish paint. If worked properly, then buffing will not cause swirl marks but remove them. Almost every body shop I have dealt with (and many that have been in bussiness for a long time) have had very poor polishing technqiue, as do most detailers. Luckly, places like the Geek and autopia exist, where proper techniques are developed and shared.
Completely dependent on the type of abrasive and its structure. With proper technique, the result would be a flawless finish.
I am curious as which abrasives you have tested? While I would agree that X3 is less asgresive (and thus less dangerous) then a rubbing compound, but specically, how does it stand up in terms of aggresiveness compared to the nano technology abrasives found in Menzerna 106ff or PO85d? Since both of the polishes break down rather quick (as opposed to your abrasive which doesn't loose cut) it seems that they X3 would remove more paint over time, compared to an abrasive that has lost all its cutting power very quickly
That said, if we still have to remove 1/10 of the clear coat, it doesn't matter how its done, that amount of paint still has to be removed. Whether we make 10 passes with a finishing polish or 1 pass with a compound and 1 pass with a finishing polish, the point is 1/10 still has to be removed.
So the abrasive structure is not the same as the fresh polish, so it has broken down?
Thank you
I understand your points, but any micro fine finishing polish can be used with similar results (allowing the pad to the cutting). For what its work, you take 3M Ultra Fina, wipe it one, make one pass across the paint (ensuring that the abrasives have not broken down) and wipe clean. And on all but the softest paints, you will have zero marring.
Thanks for taking the time Tom.