Too many hobbies...

Ok so that would be 100A at 12V? So roughly 1200 Watts? That's much lower than I was expecting. For some reason I thought that a car needed tons of power to operate.

Thanks for the info about the isolator, I did not consider the draining of the main battery as a problem. I guess it really dépends how long the battery pack can operate... if it has say 10 hours of work time, then the isolator would not be needed. If it's more like 1 or 2 hours then yes you can be in trouble without one ;)

I guess I will need to research the subject. This seems like a good way to work instead of getting a generator that is super Noisy. Not sure what kind of battery would be best, I was thinking marine ones because they are designed to work for a long time but they may lack the power. Otherwise probably car batteries would be best.

I've never metered a running vehicle to see what the draw is (would want to do it without the alternator feeding back into the electrical system), but overall there aren't a TON of electrical things...lights, ignition system, A/C, radio, etc. unless you are talking about a hybrid or electric vehicle. But it does all add up.

The problem with adding things onto the electrical system, even car audio, is that he auto manufacturers don't consider those additions to their design requirements.... they only need that alternator to charge the standard running vehicle. Sure, they probably pad the specification with 20% or something, but they aren't intending to charge 6 batteries added to operate tools for mobile detailing ;)

You will probably want deep cycle batteries... something that can be pretty much fully drained and recharged without effecting the battery operation. Standard automotive batteries are not designed to be drained like this, and doing so will effect their recharge ability and battery life.
 
That's a good way to look at things I think. It's fun to learn new stuff and if you can save a buck in the process then why not.

My next project will be to learn basic mechanic to replace items that break often on a car. I was thinking alternator and water pump. Probably breaks too although I remember that when I was younger I tried working on breaks and bleeding the lines was a pain in the butt. I am not sure if brake systems improved in that regard.

Alternators are simple as long as the belt tensioner is easy to access and there is ample room to work - since you would have to remove the belt. I recently changed the belt on my Acura and there is little room... by little room, I mean that a standard 3/8" drive ratchet and socket for the belt tensioner won't even fit. Nonetheless, I got it done in about 30 minutes... which I'm sure saved a $85 labor charge from my local mechanic; I've read that some RSX owners have been charged as much as $200 for the labor for replacement.

Regarding brake systems... my Acura and my wifes Explorer both have standard disc brakes. I've changed both and they are easy and straight forward to do... MUCH easier than anything with brake drums & shoes and having to deal with their springs. That said, even some of the disc brakes are trying to get a little more tricky... most just need to have the piston compressed to install the new pads and this can usually be done with a C-clamp. However, some vehicles are now requiring special tooling to compress (via rotation) the piston back into the caliper.
 
I love that Lion pic.

Thanks. It looks better at full resolution where you can see the details of each hair. I got it printed in a 16" x 24" size for my sons room... most people who come over and see it don't believe that I took it. It was taken at the San Diego Safari Park back in 2011.
 
The problem with adding things onto the electrical system, even car audio, is that he auto manufacturers don't consider those additions to their design requirements.... they only need that alternator to charge the standard running vehicle. Sure, they probably pad the specification with 20% or something, but they aren't intending to charge 6 batteries added to operate tools for mobile detailing ;)

You will probably want deep cycle batteries... something that can be pretty much fully drained and recharged without effecting the battery operation. Standard automotive batteries are not designed to be drained like this, and doing so will effect their recharge ability and battery life.

This is all true, that is why I was thinking marine batteries. I don't know if it's possible to get a more powerful alternator for a vehicle, but if so that might be something to look into as well. Or maybe add a second alternator dedicated to the battery group. Gonna have to do a lot of research on this.
 
This is all true, that is why I was thinking marine batteries. I don't know if it's possible to get a more powerful alternator for a vehicle, but if so that might be something to look into as well. Or maybe add a second alternator dedicated to the battery group. Gonna have to do a lot of research on this.

You definitely have options here... you can certainly have an OEM alternator re-built/modified to a higher output (most alternator/generator repair shops can do this). Additionally, you can purchase an aftermarket High Output alternator as well - they usually aren't cheap, but it will likely depend on how much amperage that you need.
 
Alternators are simple as long as the belt tensioner is easy to access and there is ample room to work - since you would have to remove the belt. I recently changed the belt on my Acura and there is little room... by little room, I mean that a standard 3/8" drive ratchet and socket for the belt tensioner won't even fit. Nonetheless, I got it done in about 30 minutes... which I'm sure saved a $85 labor charge from my local mechanic; I've read that some RSX owners have been charged as much as $200 for the labor for replacement.

Regarding brake systems... my Acura and my wifes Explorer both have standard disc brakes. I've changed both and they are easy and straight forward to do... MUCH easier than anything with brake drums & shoes and having to deal with their springs. That said, even some of the disc brakes are trying to get a little more tricky... most just need to have the piston compressed to install the new pads and this can usually be done with a C-clamp. However, some vehicles are now requiring special tooling to compress (via rotation) the piston back into the caliper.

Yes I feel the alternator is most likelly the easiest of parts to change. There is no liquid lines of any kind running there so it's just a matter of removing the old one, bolting the new one in with attention to torque and making sure the belt is good an tight.

Fuel pumps, windshield washer pumps and motors and all those things are probably a lot harder. For brakes, are you saying that it is no longer needed to bleed them? If so that would make that job so much easier!
 
Glad to have you on the forums Drvnbysound. So what do you do in your spare time, when you have any, these days?
 
Wow! I'm glad I'm not the only one! I, too, have way too many hobbies. Many of them spread from me seeing someone do something, and thinking "I can do that!"

I, too, am into DSLR photography and even a little woodworking and stuff! That and, motorcycles, R/C airplanes, cars, boats, and a million other things. Nobody will EVER accuse me of 'needing a hobby'.
 
drvnbysound,

Welcome to yet another psychosis my friend. ;)

Sounds like you and I have a lot in common. (with the exception of the lil' electrical engineering thingy). :laughing: If it counts, I now have a son-in-law (since July) that is an Electrical Engineer, got his Undergrad and Masters at the same time from Ga. Tech all in 3½ years! Studied RF Antenna Theory. :dunno: Designs micro circuits that'll fit on your little fingernail. Geared at guidance and control circuits et al. As in defense projects. Whew!!! :props:

Cars I can build, houses I can build, I've designed and installed more home theaters than I can remember. Was into structured wiring in the late 90's when people had no idea what the heck it was! :rolleyes: Car stereo, yup been there. Home audio, you betcha', started in audio back in the days of quad (the 70's) and was a very early adopter of 5.1, now I have a 11.1 Yamaha 3010, using it to drive a Sunfire Cinema Grand as my main amp and let it drive the added surround speakers. (As I watch my vintage 73" RPTV that weighs in at some 430+ lbs) ;)

Digital photography, got into that with a really early couple of hand held digitals and moved to Canon DSLR's years ago. Spend a fortune on remote control trucks? Yep did that too. :rolleyes:

Tools to work around the house? Generally I have more than whatever the guys do that show up to do stuff around here. Got a new roof last year and they were needing a pneumatic finish nailer and stapler. (Their nailer broke and didn't have a stapler) I took them to the shop and asked them what size nailer they needed, and of course there was a stapler hanging next to it. The guy said, "Sir, you sure have a lot of tools". To which I replied, "Never know when you'll need something, and I also have a VERY BIG Doberman and a safe full of guns just in case." :eek: :laughing:

But yeah... :welcome: to AGO, great place to prop up ya' feet and stay a while.

@Calendyr

On GM cars you can pull the code(s) of your glove box door and they'll tell you the alternator amperage. Our Envoy Denali for instance has a 140 amp unit. Wife called last week from work saying her battery was dead, "it just clicks" she said. So I ran by and picked up one and headed to her work. Took my jump box, a battery charger and enough tools to take the whole darned truck apart with me. ;) Got there and had the new alternator on in about 5 minutes, literally. GM books .7 hours for it. Only has two bolts on the mount and sits right on top (5.3 liter).

Turns out it wasn't the battery or alternator. It was the starter that wasn't kicking over. Ended up it was a loose negative battery CABLE of all things. :rolleyes:

@Art

FWIW I put the Pioneer line in my kids 4Runner. Components up front and the 4" coaxial's in the back (doors wouldn't hold anything bigger). The sub is a single 12" Kicker solobaric L7. All Alpine MRX amps and front end electronics.

Hey buddy, don't get caught up in what your speakers are rated at versus what the amp is rated at. Many a speaker voice coil has been blown by an underpowered amp that's being over driven into distortion than a massively over powered amp that is pushing clean power into the speaker.

Also, keep in mind that say you have a speaker that's rated @ say 88dB (1 watt @ 1 meter) that (generally) for every 3dB increase in loudness you double the power. So say you like to listen at 100dB) which is loud, that you'll only need 16 watts. But going to 110dB now.... that's another matter as 109dB would be more like 128 watts, continuously (plus power peaks, IE: headroom)! Yikes!!! :eek:

But yeah, for a sub you want one that'll handle a decent amount of power, but more importantly you want an amp that can put out C-L-E-A-N power up to the level(s) that you most normally listen. First things first, I'd get the best amp I could find/afford with the most power I could afford, (hopefully knowing the sub that I'd like to end up with). Could go with a bargain sub to begin with then upgrade later for instance.

That in mind; but you should b.e looking at pawn shops for your sub box, or at least the speakers that are in the box(es). They are a dime a dozen at pawn shops and there are deals to be had for sure. The Kicker L7 unit that I picked up sells for $350 or more without a box but we found one (in a ported box) that I haggled him to $110 for. Ported isn't my choice as it's a sloppy bass but the kid likes it. ;) (He's big into dub step, European electronic style stuff and mixing his own stuff.) When he finally gets ready to tighten the bass up we can either build a bigger box or put a foam plug in the existing box. Foam plugging it will help, but still let it breath a bit. It'll kill the low end roll-off in that box because it's just not big enough to be a sealed box. (and it's a big box as it is.) :laughing:

Of course right after we bought it he found a dual Memphis Audio box he was jonesing for. Told him when he got the money to buy it that was up to him. As it was I spent over $2K putting everything in his truck, including Dynamat in all 4 doors. (They close with such a nice solid 'thunk' now instead of the oem sound.) ;)

Cardaddy out! Im the MAN

Me has some Italian ceramic tile I need to complete in the basement before the wife comes home.
 
Thanks Cardaddy, I figured it would be quick and easy but I wasn't thinking 5 minutes LOL. I Wonder if it's the same thing on Toyata vehicles... I am likelly to buy one of those.
 
Glad to have you on the forums Drvnbysound. So what do you do in your spare time, when you have any, these days?

Spare time?! What's that? :D

Well, Monday is a holiday for me, so I decided to take today off to net a 4-day weekend. I got up early expecting to wash my wife's Explorer. About the time I was done with the wheels she came out and told me that she decided that she was going to run errands... so much for washing :( While she finished getting ready I went ahead and cleaned the engine bay. Maybe I'll try again tomorrow...

During the hot part of the day I flashed my network router with DD-WRT firmware. I've got a friend who is a IA/IT guru and has shown me some reports from his home network that shows literally THOUSANDS of unauthorized access attempts (attempted hacks) within about 2 months. Knowing that this happens to EVERYONE's network, I figured I wanted to up my network security as well. He sent me over some firewall rules, so I got those setup today.
 
Thanks Cardaddy, I figured it would be quick and easy but I wasn't thinking 5 minutes LOL. I Wonder if it's the same thing on Toyata vehicles... I am likelly to buy one of those.

Probably a bit harder, but with serpentine systems these days it's generally a fixed alternator with a tensioner pulley holding everything together.

I'm just glad it wasn't REALLY the starter on the wife's truck. That sucker books @ 3.7 in the GM book which means it'd taken me ALL DARNED DAY! :eek:
 
Don't say things like that, I don't want to have to worry about hackers ;)

One thing I learned long ago: If someone wants to get into your computer, they will. If banks and the government can't keep hackers out with teams of anti-intrusion specialist, how do we stand a chance?

Firewalls will keep the newbie hackers out, the pros are not gonna go after personnal computers when they can hack more juicy targets.
 
Don't say things like that, I don't want to have to worry about hackers ;)

One thing I learned long ago: If someone wants to get into your computer, they will. If banks and the government can't keep hackers out with teams of anti-intrusion specialist, how do we stand a chance?

Firewalls will keep the newbie hackers out, the pros are not gonna go after personnal computers when they can hack more juicy targets.

I'm not worried about a targeted attack... I know I can't stop those guys and I'm not going to bother trying. I'm trying to stop the thousands of bots that try to continuously on a daily basis. My firewall is now setup to automatically drop any incoming packets that originate outside the US ;)
 
I don't have any anti virus software on my CPU. (Don't like or trust it)

I also have zero information on it, well except my homework for my classes. And my AG wish list. I just call them in, plus I get to talk to someone, for questions, when I do call them in.

But anything is always possible.
 
I stopped using anti-virus softwares years ago. I have a theory that viruses are put out by virus protection companies to make more business. I can't prove it but let's just say I was amazed at how fast "cures" came out when viruses were introduced. I find it very funny that it takes them less than 24 hours to find a virus and program a cure for it and leave it at that.

Anyway, were were talking about direct attacks, or hacking. Someone trying to bypass your network security to access you computer from the outside. If you own a router, it has a firewall built-in that is pretty effective at blocking this. Also most operating systems also run a software firewall, so unless you disable either or both, you will have 2 levels of protection by default.

Drvnbysound was talking about improving that by tweeking the settings of the firewall to be more active in the defense. It's not a bad idea, it can also speed up your internet connection because all those requests that you are constantly bombarded with use bandwidth.

Wanna share what you did exactly Drvn?
 
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