Too much orange pad?

[marsomthing]

I was doing a correction for a friend who got keyed recently and everything but the deep stuff came out I was using griots da...


I started with a white ccs pad with mg ultimate compound then after very little correction I went to a 3 inch orange ccs pad.(light cutter)


First pass I saw a good bit of correction, moving in the right direction, moved rpms up to 6 even better. Since working with a heavier pad I only did 4 passes per application, but I did it like 6 or 7 times maybe more, BUT each with better results. When I got it to where I thought was best (not perfect but hairline) I stopped and saw buffer marks. Broke the 6.5 white pad out with some ultimate compound went over twice to smooth it out with good results. But I felt like I was chasing pad marks every time I wiped it would move a little further, so I went a pad lighter until I was satisfied. Was I chasing because I cut so much with the orange pad

My question is....can you use a pad to much in the same spot? ie my using the small orange pad a good bit in the same spot?

 

[shoeless89]

The Lake Country Orange pads aren't going to finish off very well. Its common to have some very light hairline scratches and hazing. If your going to use an orange pad, you should expect to follow it up with a less aggressive polish and pad. Or just a less aggressive pad if your using a product like Ultimate Compound.

 

[marsomthing]

Thank you, should I be concerned about how many times I go over the same area?

When I used a lighter pad I did a much larger area to try and even everything out.

 

[glen e]

I always finish off with light polish/ultimate compound and blue LC pad - then LSP...also speed on a GG6 at 2....

 

[mg6045]

Thank you, should I be concerned about how many times I go over the same area?

When I used a lighter pad I did a much larger area to try and even everything out.

Yes, you should be concerned with how many times you go ever the same area with an aggressive compound and small aggressive pad. Just because its a DA polisher does not mean that you CAN NOT burn through paint. We have seen it a few times in the forum over the past couple years.

Some scratch's are too deep to safely remove. Without a paint depth gauge, sometimes its good to just lessen the visual effect of the scratch rather than completely remove it.

There are more aggressive products and pads than what you were using, but, yes, with a 4 inch spot pad and small area you do need to be careful about what your doing. A good idea would be to let the paint cool down between each pass.

I always keep M105 and a PFW or microfiber 3 inch pad. If I do not seriously lessen the scratch after 2 pass's, I know that its probably not a great idea to keep hitting that same area hard and with more pass's.

 

[marsomthing]

I always finish off with light polish/ultimate compound and blue LC pad - then LSP...also speed on a GG6 at 2....

How are your reults with the blue pad and compound...you do mean the ccs pads?

Yes, you should be concerned with how many times you go ever the same area with an aggressive compound and small aggressive pad. Just because its a DA polisher does not mean that you CAN NOT burn through paint. We have seen it a few times in the forum over the past couple years.

Thank you thats what I was thinking as I was finishing up, but I think I stopped in time(good to know for the future!!!!)....the paint looked great and just a hairline scratch was left, and no visual difference in paint since I just spot buffed that quarter of the car.

 

[RhetoricMixes]

My method is usally ultimate compound by orange ccs pas then ultimate polish with a blue ccs pass .I havent had any issues with trails or anything and thats my method on most cars i do. If they want more of a jeweling effect I just do more passes with separate blue pads and more ultimate polish.

 

[marsomthing]

My method is usally ultimate compound by orange ccs pas then ultimate polish with a blue ccs pass .I havent had any issues with trails or anything and thats my method on most cars i do. If they want more of a jeweling effect I just do more passes with separate blue pads and more ultimate polish.

What do you mean with a seperate blue pad? Just break out a clean one? Isnt the blue pad more of a LSP pad? Or is the fine pad what jewels it?

 

[RhetoricMixes]

Yeah the blue pad is more of an LSP pad but when i use it with UP it doesnt cut at all and only polishes. If i want to remove any finer scratches after using a orange pad and UC i'll hit it when UP and a white pad. If UC finishes well I usually just give the customer 1-3 passes of UP on separate blue pads (just because clean pads equal easier application).

 

[shoeless89]

Blue pads are LSP/Jeweling pads. Its harder to 'jewel' with a DA. I would UC Orange pad, then whatever fine/finishing polish you have on a white or black pad (try both) and see how that turns out. A lot depends on how hard or soft the paint your working on is

 

[opie_7afe]

switch products and pads, need something with less and smaller abrasive particles, UC is still a compound so you will need to follow it up with something like ultimate polish on a white or black pad or mirror glaze #9 swirl remover on white or black pad.for instance if i took m105 and used it with a red wax pad i would still have some buffer trails as i still am using a compound. switch to m205 and it removes them. sure switching pads does have an effect on the cut but still has larger/more abrasive particles then a polish would.