Topping a Coating with a Sealant

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willowcat11

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Is it a good idea to top a Coating with a Sealant? Say I lay down WGUC, and then top it with WDGPS.

I see that a number of guys are topping their coatings with Waxes or Sealants. And was just wondering what the reasoning is behind doing so.


Thanks and have great weekend all!


Ray
 
Why?! The coating does everything a sealant would, only better. You're just throwing product, and money, away by doing that.
 
People top coatings with sealants? I thought you weren't supposed to?
 
Thanks guys!

Yeah, This was my fault. I have just been reading Way too many different threads and things that other people do. I'm just going to go by what the manufacturer says, and not read into things so much.


Peace!


Ray
 
@Willowcat11. How'd Ultimate Black Trim Restorer Aerosol turn out on tires?
 
willowcat11 said:
Is it a good idea to top a Coating
with a Sealant? Say I lay down WGUC,
and then top it with WDGPS.

I see that a number of guys are topping
their coatings with Waxes or Sealants.

And was just wondering what
the reasoning is behind doing so.
Click to expand...
The Wonderful World of Detailing
is chock-full of "hypotheticals".

willowcat11 said:
I'm just going to go by what the manufacturer
says, and not read into things so much.
Click to expand...
^^^ :props: ^^^


Bob
 
There are nothing like wasting money on topping coating with wax or sealant. How could you so sure that coating can really protect everything when in many case they can't even protect themselve from water spot or bird drop?

I tried many coating Nanonix Quartz, Kube Bond Ceramic, etc. all of their layer can be eating down by some type of water spot. Coating may not be that expensive, but to polish and install coating is very expensive!

It is not a bad idea to increase more protection for the coating themselve as well, especially sealant or wax is so cheap comparing to the coating, and there is no way that you will make mistake in applying them.
 
Topping a coating with a wax or sealant ought to be a felony.
 
I suppose it depends, right?

There are products that are meant to top coatings. For example, Gtechniq EXO (referred to as a "sealant" and a "coating" on their website) is applied to C1 or Crystal Serum. 22PLE Final Coat is applied to top their coating line. Gyeon Booster is applied to the Gyeon line of coatings. So on and so forth.

But, one really wouldn't apply Collinite 845, for example, to CQuartz Finest or WGDGPS to WG uber coating. These traditional sealants and waxes can physically be applied, but generally their life on the vehicle would be shortened due to incomplete bonding to the underlying coating and probably would lessen the intended visual appeal (beading, sheeting) of the underlying coating. I agree with the others here: I'ts probably a waste of money and time.
 
I topped a CQUK car with CarPro Reload as it is formulated to work with CQ Coatings. But really no need if the coating is kept clean
 
Depends on the coating.

As others have mentioned, it's actually recommended to top CQUARTZ with Reload after curing. I'd stick to manufacture recommendations as they'll know best what works and what doesn't with their specific products. Nothing against those here who have experience with trying different sealants / waxes out - that's equally as valuable knowledge as far as I'm concerned.


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Valky said:
There are nothing like wasting money on topping coating with wax or sealant. How could you so sure that coating can really protect everything when in many case they can't even protect themselve from water spot or bird drop?

I tried many coating Nanonix Quartz, Kube Bond Ceramic, etc. all of their layer can be eating down by some type of water spot. Coating may not be that expensive, but to polish and install coating is very expensive!

It is not a bad idea to increase more protection for the coating themselve as well, especially sealant or wax is so cheap comparing to the coating, and there is no way that you will make mistake in applying them.
Click to expand...

So because a coating has water spots or droppings on it, it failed? You do realize the coating is doing it's job by keeping those spots off the clear coat, right? If you didn't have that coating on there, guess what would be covered in those water spots or droppings...
 
StangFan25 said:
So because a coating has water spots or droppings on it, it failed? You do realize the coating is doing it's job by keeping those spots off the clear coat, right? If you didn't have that coating on there, guess what would be covered in those water spots or droppings...
Click to expand...

I fully know that without coating, what is going to occur, I don't blame anything to coating but only praise them.

But what do you think about driving a car with those water spot on the hood for the next 3 years? And what do you feel to continue having more of them over time? Even for us detailers, to polish them out everytime a numbers of water spot occur and reapply coating would cost us money right? Then imagine this occur to your customers who paid money for it, will they happy that coating that we promise to protect their paint having so many defect on it? Over coat or below coat is not thier problem, they just knowing that their car paint is not perfect and will come back for you to repolish and apply it.

So, in order to minimize the chance that could occur, a regular coat of cheaper than coating or wax will be a good idea. I can tell you that Pinnacle Diamond Paint Sealant can do a great job as a top sealant over coating, if you have more budget Synergy can be a great topping wax for coating as well. They are really amp up my coating.:xyxthumbs:
 
If you use a SiO2 based coating, and then after curing you use a sealant which is a weaker version of a coating, like Reload (5% SiO2), IMHO you'll be fine.

It will improve slickness, since coatings are not as slick as sealants, and clients usually love that.

I don't do it all the time, but sometimes I do it.

But it is a personal preference, it is a hot topic for sure.
 
RPM_BR said:
If you use a SiO2 based coating, and then after curing you use a sealant which is a weaker version of a coating, like Reload (5% SiO2), IMHO you'll be fine.

It will improve slickness, since coatings are not as slick as sealants, and clients usually love that.
Click to expand...

C1 and 22PLE are definitely more grabby when it comes to coatings. EXO and Final Coat do indeed make those coatings more slick and add to the hydrophobicity. They may also help with water spotting.

All these things - slickness, beading, sheeting - are proxies for protection. The thicker the layers on the car, theoretically the more protection is afforded to the clear coat. A coating doesn't have to be slick, bead well or sheet well to protect the clear coat.

...but it's nice when they do!
 
I think this thread is raising a lot great questions, and with the "Coating World" now fairly new upon us, I was hoping some of the Autogeek staff may be able to shed some light on this topic.

Thanks all and take care!


Ray
 
IMO:

"Topping a Coating" is a project fraught with risks;
among them being: presumptuousness; imprecision;
and mystification.


Bob
 
Coatings are by no means new, but there have been great advancements with them over the past couple of years.

It's been said already - but a manufacturer will state whether it is advisable to top a coating; if it's the case, it will most likely be one of their products, which I see no issue in.

Which coating are you working with?

That should be the question. Not every coating can be treated the same. Sort of lends to what Bob said above actually


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I will be buying one once we get closer to warmer weather, and I am leaning heavily towards WGUC.
 
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