Touch up paint questions...

[Sports Fan]

I have a few very tiny spots on the hood which look like they are probably rock chips, and I just bought some touch up paint from the dealership to match the color/car. I'm getting ready to polish and apply a sealant/wax sometime in the next few weeks, and I'm curious if I should use a clear coat pen after applying the the touch up paint, or if it's even necessary. Also, after it's been applied, how long should I wait before I begin polishing and applying wax/sealant?

 

[Bruno Soares]

If the paint you buy comes with clear, use it. Then wait 2 weeks to polish/seal.
I’ve used Dr. ColorChip which has no clear and it worked really well.

 

[PaulMys]

Sorry, I've never really read up on Dr. CC.

But, does it require any clear coat follow up?

Or is it a kind of a color-coded epoxy fix?

Excuse my ignorance. I should have read more threads on this.

 

[Bruno Soares]

Sorry, I've never really read up on Dr. CC.

But, does it require any clear coat follow up?

Or is it a kind of a color-coded epoxy fix?

Excuse my ignorance. I should have read more threads on this.

It comes with a liquid used to level it off and activate the hardening. Probably more like single stage because it’s one application, level it, done. Pretty easy to use and the color matched well. Bought it again now for wife’s car.

 

[PaulMys]

It comes with a liquid used to level it off and activate the hardening. Probably more like single stage because it’s one application, level it, done. Pretty easy to use and the color matched well. Bought it again now for wife’s car.

Great info. Thank you.

 

[spazzz]

It seems pricey but once you use it, you will think it is worth it.

I used it on an eggshell crater from previous owner. I did one application and was pleased with the results.
I used the kit with the squeegee.

 

[Sports Fan]

If the paint you buy comes with clear, use it. Then wait 2 weeks to polish/seal.

Unfortunately it was only the paint. I didn't ask the Honda dealership if they had any type of clear coat to go with it, and they didn't volunteer any...so I'm guessing they don't offer it. But I do like your suggestion about the Dr. ColorChip...I wonder if they have and offer clear coat that they sell separately (?)

I’ve used Dr. ColorChip which has no clear and it worked really well.

It seems pricey but once you use it, you will think it is worth it.

I used it on an eggshell crater from previous owner. I did one application and was pleased with the results.
I used the kit with the squeegee.

@spazzz...are you referring to Dr. ColorChip? If so, then I guess if you used the kit that it does contain clear coat as well. I wonder if they sell that separately (?)

I also need touch up paint for a Kia, and I haven't checked with the Kia dealership but I have seen where I can get some online. Kind of pricey, though...

 

[Sports Fan]

It comes with a liquid used to level it off and activate the hardening. Probably more like single stage because it’s one application, level it, done. Pretty easy to use and the color matched well. Bought it again now for wife’s car.

So does the liquid "replace" the need for a clear coat? Or just act as an agent to help in the application of it?

 

[hooked]

I haven’t used Dr. ColorChip, but from the videos I’ve seen, you “smear” the paint into the chip without worrying about keeping the paint in the chip area and let it dry. Then you use the solvent to level the paint in the crater and remove the paint outside of it. It’s not going to be perfect but it looks good from a few feet away.

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

It’s like voodoo can’t tell you how it works but saw a car after and stuff works good. The paint you bought (touch up) usually needs to be wet sanded then cleared then cut & buffed (corrected). Dr color ship is way easier with about 90% results. If you look hard for them you’ll find em. Others will never even notice.


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[Bruno Soares]

So does the liquid "replace" the need for a clear coat? Or just act as an agent to help in the application of it?

No clear coat needed with Dr. ColorChip. They probably do some single stage paint that doesn't need clear over it though my pads never pulled any paint from them, perhaps because it's such a tiny amount.
Definitely easier to use than dealer purchased touch up pens. Maybe those are also single stage and don't need clear but you'd have to check on your specific one.

 

[Bruno Soares]

It’s like voodoo can’t tell you how it works but saw a car after and stuff works good. The paint you bought (touch up) usually needs to be wet sanded then cleared then cut & buffed (corrected). Dr color ship is way easier with about 90% results. If you look hard for them you’ll find em. Others will never even notice.


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You can apply several times and eventually get a touch up that is pretty level with the surface. Sure beats having to wet sand and level with abrasion. I think it makes the chip almost disappear and that's my goal, the chip is already there and more will come so no point investing so much time with wet sand and what not, unless you will now PPF over it and want perfection before that. Since I don't have PPF I go for that 90% rock chip correction because I know next time I drive more will show up.

 

[ejaf]

I also saw, I think, AMMO NYC video on youtube, and what he did was mix the base with the clearcoat in one step.

I'm going to try that, since I have OEM paints for my vehicles, and have some spots to touch up (door edges seem to be something "other" folks in my family don't pay attention to).

Eric

 

[Belo]

i've done both. duplicolor with clear and colorchips without it. After all the hype with colorchips I expected a lot better than what I got to be honest. I'd recommend just some touchup with some blob eliminator. But see how it looks before you do clear. The clear could cause an undesired shine.

 

[Celticsfan]

I watched the ammo nyc video
And got the tool/pen they used. Haven’t done it yet but was wondering what about the surface rust at the chip, any way to remove or just dry and apply the touch up ? Not looking for perfection just don’t want the rust to creep through.

 

[Bruno Soares]

You want to remove rust first. Touch up paint needs bare metal or primer to bond to.

 

[Celticsfan]

You want to remove rust first. Touch up paint needs bare metal or primer to bond to.

After going over my hood I only have two spots with a little rust, one being worse than the other. Such a small area any tips ?

Also looks like at the top of the chip the paint might be lifting..

Was thinking about getting some of this for another project, what if I used a super fine tip brush and brushed it on the effected area, let dwell, rinse dry and hit it with Eraser prior to touch up ?

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[Bruno Soares]

I once did one with some rust and used a tiny screwdriver to scrape it away. You can also glue a tiny piece of sandpaper to the rubber of a pencil and use that. Mike has an article here with that trick. If the edge is lifting I would sand that too.

 

[BillE]

I once did one with some rust and used a tiny screwdriver to scrape it away. You can also glue a tiny piece of sandpaper to the rubber of a pencil and use that. Mike has an article here with that trick. If the edge is lifting I would sand that too.

Agree!

Bill

 

[yakky]

A fiberglass scratch brush is what you want for removing rust before you paint. It’s like a mechanical pencil with an abrasive at the tip.