Tricks with WOWA's like Opti-Seal?

[MarkD51]

Hi Folks,
Not sure if this is the right place to pose some questions about such products?

Over the past couple weeks, I've been playing around with a couple WOWA type products, such as UPGP, in which a small sample was given to me, and a brand new fresh 8oz bottle of Optimum Opti-Seal.

I did some Door Jambs, and under hood and trunk areas with the UPGP, and applied prior to a 15% alcohol wipedown.
I noticed a little bit of oily streaks left behind the next day, and these wiped right off with a MF Towel. Looked very nice, and was very easy. I liked the idea of no powdery residues left behind in these tight areas.

Now yesterday, and today, I tried the Optimum Opti Seal on a few little items around the house, like my Bathroom Countertop, and bathroom Vanity Mirror.

Since Optimum says this product can be used on things like glass, and others like vinyl-plastic, and headlights-tail lights, I thought I'd try it.

No real noticeable difference on the countertop shne, just a slicker feel was all. The Vanity Mirror, after a bit of hazing, and wiped clean had a nice slick feel as well, and thought I'd try it on my car glass this morning.

The glass was all cleaned with Sprayway Glass Cleaner, and was clayed and cleaned with Spraway about a week ago.

After application to the glass, I noted a haze like what Rain-X does after application. After 20 minutes, I did go back with a damp cotton towel, and was still a greasy smeary haze left. Even after another cleaning with Sprayway Cleaner, there was still a good amount of smearing.

The glass was a lot slicker, and I noted that the Opti-Seal did pull a lot of dirt off that clayng, and Sprayway didn't seem to get off.

Is this common of these WOWA products? They don't actually seem like WOWA, when you have to go back and deal with oily smearing. Or am I doing something wrong?

I know Opti-Seal probably is not the optimum product to be using on glass, but I'm thinking I would encounter similar results of clean paint as well? Thanks, Mark

 

[john b]

almost sounds like you are useing to much,depending on your applicator,i would clean the glass with ipa then take a mf applicator and spray the pad 1 time and either do a windsheild or side glass and do 2 glass panels at same time.reason being is it does not take much.if i see a streak or build up i flip over mf pad and buff off.do it in the shade for best results

 

[y8s]

Mark, are you applying the opti-seal VERY thin? One or two sprays should be enough to do a whole car door. if the applicator is already primed and wet, you can use even less.

 

[crxman2010]

The oily smear you are likely seeing is from using to much product. When I use products that are WOWA (Wipe On Walk Away), I always follow the application up with a microfiber and a light touch to avoid later surprises. (opti-seal, opti-coat)

Next time you apply opti-seal to windows, paint... (a window is probably the easiest to see the flashing) watch the product flash/dry. It is nothing like watching paint dry and only should take 1-2 minutes. You will notice that some of the oily spots disappear and some do not, the ones that do not disappear are a result of to much product. Lightly wiping a microfiber towel over the spot will quickly and easily remove it. If the product is allowed to dry like that, it will not wipe off as easy and depending how long it has cured you may need to use a product for taking wax/sealant off.

As a general practice, I always lightly wipe surfaces are applying opti-seal just in case there is a high spot (oily spot) that I didn't see, just give it a chance to flash first. I have never had any trouble with wiping off the protection and it has kept me from finding any high spots later.

 

[Chris Thomas]

Too much product...but, if you're heavy handed you can use compressed air to dry it faster leaving virtually NO streaks even when over applying.

 

[MarkD51]

Too much product...but, if you're heavy handed you can use compressed air to dry it faster leaving virtually NO streaks even when over applying.

I appreciate everyone chiming in, including you too Chris.

Maybe this was an overly applied application, I used the yellow Sponge Pad that accompanied my order, I primed the Pad with a Squirt or two, went to apply, and the product was dragging across the glass, like there was not enough product.

So, a couple spritzes more across 1/2 the windshield, and the product now is starting to spread like one would think this product should spread.

Will this product, in lesser amounts spread without any haze?

Lemme tell you, this afternoon I busted my cojones trying to rid my glass of this product's haze-smearing, Two times I cleaned the glass after with Sprayway, then Wiped the entire car down with clear warm water, then buff the glass with a MF Towel, then back to Sprayway two times, and while I got rid of 90% of the hazing, and clouding, I'm figuring that by the time I'm done getting rid of the after effects of this product, that will be two months down the road, when the product finally wears off the glass.

Or, I use some other glass treatment that will come along and rid the glass of Opti-Seal.

Maybe next up is 91% alcohol, or Rain-X for starters.

I don't so much mind these processes, or backward progress, because this crapbox I drive daily is a test bed for many of the AG products.

Of the 3 Optimum products I have on hand, this one is truly mystifying me.

 

[crxman2010]

Will this product, in lesser amounts spread without any haze?

I have found it to always be visible when applying it to glass and you will notice the product flashing off with that oil slick look. But if your applying the "correct" amount, the time between application and flashing to clear can be quick depending on the weather.

Far as removing it, if you have some Griots Paint Prep or APC/OPC it should come off without any trouble. I think you just need something a little more aggressive. I usually try to clean my windows with optimum instant detailer once I have a good coat of opti-seal on them, however, I have had to use stoners/megs window cleaner before on my opti-sealed windows and it did not remove the sealant. It may have shortened its life, but that is a different story.

I have never used RainX but I have been very happy with opti-seal on my windows. Goes on quick, have had it last 6+ months on all my windows except the windshield, and considering I only use opti-seal on my windows the 8 oz bottle is going to last me a very long time.

 

[MarkD51]

I have found it to always be visible when applying it to glass and you will notice the product flashing off with that oil slick look. But if your applying the "correct" amount, the time between application and flashing to clear can be quick depending on the weather.

Far as removing it, if you have some Griots Paint Prep or APC/OPC it should come off without any trouble. I think you just need something a little more aggressive. I usually try to clean my windows with optimum instant detailer once I have a good coat of opti-seal on them, however, I have had to use stoners/megs window cleaner before on my opti-sealed windows and it did not remove the sealant. It may have shortened its life, but that is a different story.

I have never used RainX but I have been very happy with opti-seal on my windows. Goes on quick, have had it last 6+ months on all my windows except the windshield, and considering I only use opti-seal on my windows the 8 oz bottle is going to last me a very long time.

Thanks again for this advice.

I'm hoping that this thread hasn't been seen as a bashing of the product, I'm sure it's a superb product, that the problem is the dufus (me) behind the application pad, and I just don't know yet how to properly work with this product.

May I then ask some pertinent questions, and tips about application so I can better understand the product, and how to properly apply it?

What type pad do you folks then use to apply it with, a standard Yellow Polyfoam Applicator? Or?

Let's say one is going to apply on a section 1/2 the size of an average sized car wndshield, or a panel of comparable size. Then how much product per such a section? Is that too large a section to apply at a time?

Then, how long would you say one has to work-spread the product? Does this product have a bit of work time, or must one work at breakneck speed to apply?

If there's any other tips about application, please do comment, I wish to learn the right way. Thanks all, Mark

 

[Speed-Dude]

Well for me I used wolfgang dgls and i'd assume it's a pretty similar product as it does also say it can be used on glass. What i did was I used one of those red/pink rectangular microfiber applicators (I'd recommend it as microfiber usually doesn't tend to drag much). I did my whole car first but i'm sure you can just go straight to the window. I used 1 squirt to prime the pad and 1 squirt for half of the windshield.

Initially I think I experienced something similar to what you saw so what I did was when i spread the product over the section of the windshield, I would really "work-in" the product. When I say that I mean I didn't apply any more pressure but I spent alot of time going back and forth over the panel until it seemed to be flashing pretty quickly. I guess if you're wondering about work time from what I remember I probably went over a normal body panel once vertically, once horizontally, and then once vertically. This seemed to spread it well and it flashed well.

As for the glass I basically just did the same motion twice per section (i'm rediculously anal about having a clear windshield and didn't mind spending the extra 20 seconds hah). Ended up giving me completely clear glass with absolutely no streaking. Actually became so clear that I could now notice the really light streaking I must have left on the interior glass :/. The direction doesn't really matter so long as you're alternating and overlapping your passes. Just take your time no need to spread it as fast as physically possible it'll give you plenty of time to spread it around before it disappears. Just don't be a turtle moving too slow haha. For the rest of the car I just did 1 squirt per panel and split the hood, roof, and trunk into two panels. Got great results!

Not sure if that was a confusing explanation but it's been a long day hope it helps though!

 

[Vegas Transplant]

...What type pad do you folks then use to apply it with, a standard Yellow Polyfoam Applicator? Or?



...If there's any other tips about application, please do comment, I wish to learn the right way. Thanks all, Mark

Not a fan of using applicator pads (foam or mf).
Cotton towel (mf works as well), cut into approx. 16x16, folded into 8ths.
4-5 primer sprays, apply product, then 1 spray or so per panel when necessary.
I always do the horizontal panels first, windshield second, then rest of vehicle.
I'm getting somewhere close to 30 applications per 8 oz bottle.

This is a cheap and effective product. Experiment with various application options.

 

[y8s]

One thing I didn't see ask is what temperature you're applying the opti-seal at.

My first application was learning how to find that balance between overapplication and streaks and underapplication and dragging. I used the yellow applicator as well.

Is it possible the glass isn't really truly clean? If you've had Rainx on there before it might leave a residue that the opti-seal has trouble with. When I went to apply the Gtechniq G1 glass teatment, I use all purpose cleaner, IPA, clay, and everything in between to make sure my windows were absolutely clean.

 

[MarkD51]

Not a fan of using applicator pads (foam or mf).
Cotton towel (mf works as well), cut into approx. 16x16, folded into 8ths.
4-5 primer sprays, apply product, then 1 spray or so per panel when necessary.
I always do the horizontal panels first, windshield second, then rest of vehicle.
I'm getting somewhere close to 30 applications per 8 oz bottle.

This is a cheap and effective product. Experiment with various application options.

Thanks again.

Just a couple more simple questions to have some more understanding of this product:

Can this product be used over a product let's say like Optimum GPS? Or in any application it absolutely must be used on a bare clean-stripped surface? Perhaps Chris can chime in?

Has any others topped this product with other products such as a nuba, or other sealant?
I would assume so. What were the results? Thanks, Mark

 

[MarkD51]

One thing I didn't see ask is what temperature you're applying the opti-seal at.

My first application was learning how to find that balance between overapplication and streaks and underapplication and dragging. I used the yellow applicator as well.

Is it possible the glass isn't really truly clean? If you've had Rainx on there before it might leave a residue that the opti-seal has trouble with. When I went to apply the Gtechniq G1 glass teatment, I use all purpose cleaner, IPA, clay, and everything in between to make sure my windows were absolutely clean.

Ah hah, that's possibily two other variables that played havoc with the application.

Yes, the Glass may have had remnants of Rain-X on it, and that it wasn't fully removed? Hmm. I shall then ask, will pure 91% Alcohol fully remove a product like Rain-X?

And about Temps when applying, yes, again this could've been another factor with the useage of this product, and not being applied at optimal temps? I'd say at the time of application, it was about 56-57 degrees, and low humidity.

It surely appears that the application was in a bit of haste, quite enthusiastic to try such newly gotten products, and as well a lack of knowledge how to properly apply it. Mark

 

[crxman2010]

What type pad do you folks then use to apply it with, a standard Yellow Polyfoam Applicator? Or?

Let's say one is going to apply on a section 1/2 the size of an average sized car wndshield, or a panel of comparable size. Then how much product per such a section? Is that too large a section to apply at a time?

Then, how long would you say one has to work-spread the product? Does this product have a bit of work time, or must one work at breakneck speed to apply?

If there's any other tips about application, please do comment, I wish to learn the right way. Thanks all, Mark

Applicator - MF pad, currently I think its a Meguiars Even Coat applicator. I switched to this from a yellow foam applicator because of static, a good clean window, some opti-seal, and a foam pad seemed to result in good amount of static. I also think the mf pad does a better job of spreading it around then mister yellow poly.

For the full windshield, I would use three sprays generally speaking with an already primed applicator, one on each side and one towards middle. So to specifically answer for half a windsheild, 1.5 sprays.

Far as speed, no coffee breaks but I never feel like I am rushed. I will spray both sides of the windshield at the same time and then work one side of the window, work the other side, come back with a towel to check the first side. I would say try to be done with the applicator within 30-45 seconds of the product hitting the panel. And then within 1-2 minutes of being done with the application I like to go back over it with a mf towel to check for high spots.

It might be possible if you were working it in like wax that the hazing could be from working the product are it started to cure. For the windshield again, I will spray the product on the windshield and then wipe side to side, quick pass around the edges to make sure I am getting a coat all the way to the edge, and then wipe top to bottom. So two passes, any more than that I don't think is really needed with a decent applicator and may result in causing its own problems.

 

[Vegas Transplant]

Can this product be used over a product let's say like Optimum GPS? Or in any application it absolutely must be used on a bare clean-stripped surface? Perhaps Chris can chime in?

Absolutely.

I mainly use products from the same line.

GPS and OPS can be topped immediately.
OCW and OOS can be applied on top of the other.
I've never heard of any compatability issue with OOS/polymers.
There are those that report polymer issues when usinb OCW and Colli-845...but that's another issue.
The change in appearance is almost instantaeous...or at the least, noticed as you go around the vehicle.

Optimumforums.org is the source for definitve OCC products answers, IMHO. Not a lot of unintended misinformation found there.

This post was edited

 

[crxman2010]

Yes, the Glass may have had remnants of Rain-X on it, and that it wasn't fully removed?

And about Temps when applying, yes, again this could've been another factor with the useage of this product, and not being applied at optimal temps? I'd say at the time of application, it was about 56-57 degrees, and low humidity.

Can this product be used over a product let's say like Optimum GPS? Or in any application it absolutely must be used on a bare clean-stripped surface? Perhaps Chris can chime in?

Has any others topped this product with other products such as a nuba, or other sealant?
I would assume so. What were the results? Thanks, Mark

It is possible having something under the opti-seal could cause fogginess, I believe opti-seal will try to work itself to the bottom when applied over another product which never sounded good to me in terms of clarity and have never tried it. So I would probably say if your going GPS first, use something like Optimum Car Wax or Collinite 845 after GPS instead of Opti-seal but Chris will better be able to comment on capability. I like my sealants always applied to clean paint, so no protection from gps or poli-seal....

I don't think 55-57 degrees should be a problem, I have applied it in my garage in the low 50's and never had any trouble but it is on the low side of what would be best. Something like a forced air heater blowing near it could shorten your work times and time to correct considerably.

Far as layering, you could layer a paste wax over opti-seal without any trouble I think (worked so far). Stay away from any cleaner waxes or AIOs when layering.

 

[crxman2010]

GPS and OPS can be topped immediately.
OCW and OOS can be applied on top of the other.


This post was edited

When I had brought the topic up before of topping collinite 845 over poli-seal, a 12-24 cure time was highly recommended for the protection portion of poli-seal to cure. However, due to winters short days and cold weather, I did put 845 on poli-seal within 1-2 hours of doing the poli-seal and it seemed to work fine, not sure if waiting would have worked better.

 

[Vegas Transplant]

When I had brought the topic up before of topping collinite 845 over poli-seal, a 12-24 cure time was highly recommended for the protection portion of poli-seal to cure. However, due to winters short days and cold weather, I did put 845 on poli-seal within 1-2 hours of doing the poli-seal and it seemed to work fine, not sure if waiting would have worked better.

I will be doing the same when my 845 comes in Fri.

 

[MarkD51]

Yes, I had noticed as others have commented about static when I applied with the Yellow Foam Pad.

I have to concur that it does appear Opti-Seal will "cut through" other products, as this apparently happened upon my window application.

I did make mention earlier, that I "thought" I was applying this product to pristine clean glass. Apparently it was far from pristine clean, as the Opti-Seal appeared to pull a lot more dirts from the Glass. I was careful not to go over onto trim when applying, and yet the Yellow Foam Applicator had dirt on it after application.

I suspect that any slight residual hazing-smearing of the product will be fully removed with just a simple wipe with a dampened clean towel next time I do the glass.

I'm getting the impression that the glass will be easier to clean-keep clean due to this product now on the glass.

For future useage of this product, I will try hard to remember all your advice folks, and of course this thread will be present now to look back upon in the event I need my memory refreshed. Thank you all! Mark

 

[crxman2010]

And if you have ever had an issue with clean glass causing your microfibers to lint, once the windows are coated with opti-seal the problem goes away . Still can be an issue on the inside.