Trim & Molding Care

  • Thread starter Thread starter Matt
  • Start date Start date
Any tips for running boards? I have an 02 explorer with Black running boards and can never seem to get them right.
 
ShininFORD said:
Any tips for running boards? I have an 02 explorer with Black running boards and can never seem to get them right.
Click to expand...
Must be something Ford uses on their suv plastics, our Lexus is fine, Lincoln is fine, and our other vehicles are fine. But my two Mountaineers (well one now) I could not get anything to work correctly on the trim, few other Explorer guys on here had the same trouble. My sister has an Explorer and same thing.

This is the only combo that worked for me and has decent durability, I used Armor All Tire Foam, let sit, then a thin layer of Poorboy's Trim Restorer. When I kept trying other products nothing would seem to absorb into the trim, including Trim Restorer, go figure, now it works. I'm gonna keep using the foam and layer a few layers of TR and see what happens, hopefully won't be greasy.

On the foot boards though I wouldn't use something that's slippery, Armor Tire Foam, Meg's Hyper Dressing, TR etc should be fine. Maybe even one of the black dye products for trim.
 
Yeah, looks like I'll have to go back to mixology 101. Thanks for the ideas, I appreciate it. I will definately give it a shot.
 
Armor All Tire Foam works for me as well, Surfer. Thanks to Justin's tip. I've used it on the front and rear bumper on my '99 Explorer and it's still looking great. It's made the grey plastic darker with a satin sheen to it. I also used it on the side mirrors. It's still nice and black. Had a light drizzle last night which was frozen on my SUV this morning. Checked it after it melted off at noon, and it didn't streak.
 
MasterShineBoy said:
I agree on that with Back to Black! It make trim look like garbage once it has worn off!!
Click to expand...

oo, good to know! thanks! i was using that on our older van (just a 98) because weplan on selling it in another year or so.:applause: i won't be buying any more!!!!
 
Dressings and protectants are fine for rubber trims but the rest can be polished and sealed just like paint.

My Tickford Falcon has urethane soft top door trims and harder trims below them and I had so much trouble with spotting and fading each wash that I had to find a solution to applying VM and tire gel every wash.

So I played around for many months and found the right ingredients and non water soluble ceramic sealant and a clear laquer.I have now machine burnished both trims to a medium gloss black and sealed permanently. No more spotting, fading at all.

Even textured trims and bumpers can be done.
Heck I even did the top wing of my bi plane spoiler with it with the machine. it was brown when I got it and had virtually no shine but like many trims, once you burnish the oxidised, flat top layer, the second layer is shinier and this product enhances the reflected image clarity. Now it has a nice shine and the reflections are sharper. I still can't see my face 100% but I'll have another go at it at the end of the year.

A bit tricky on very small trims. need my 3 inch pads to get it done with the rotary.
 
Last edited:
Sorry to hijack. What do you guys use for getting wax off the black trim? Duragloss makes something, can't think of the name - but it is a rub or something.

Thanks
Eric
 
Mr Dream Machines said:
Dressings and protectants are fine for rubber trims but the rest can be polished and sealed just like paint.

My Tickford Falcon has urethane soft top door trims and harder trims below them and I had so much trouble with spotting and fading each wash that I had to find a solution to applying VM and tire gel every wash.

So I played around for many months and found the right ingredients and non water soluble ceramic sealant and a clear laquer.I have now machine burnished both trims to a medium gloss black and sealed permanently. No more spotting, fading at all.

Even textured trims and bumpers can be done.
Heck I even did the top wing of my bi plane spoiler with it with the machine. it was brown when I got it and had virtually no shine but like many trims, once you burnish the oxidised, flat top layer, the second layer is shinier and this product enhances the reflected image clarity. Now it has a nice shine and the reflections are sharper. I still can't see my face 100% but I'll have another go at it at the end of the year.

A bit tricky on very small trims. need my 3 inch pads to get it done with the rotary.
Click to expand...

So will this work on a slightly textured fender and door trim? I like shininford have an Explorer with a dark gray plastic trim. Its fading and spotty anyone have suggestions or a way to seal these pieces to make them smooth?

Feedback is appreciated
 
Vinyl Trim Renovation:
To renovate and to accomplish long lasting renovation repairs on ultra violet (UV) faded, scuffed, or scratched black exterior trim, moulding, mirror covers, door handles, etc. without replacement or repainting with this kit fromAutomotive International

A fast and easy to use system that is long lasting and can be applied without the use of specialized tools, this product is not a dressing that will wash off after a short period but rather is an actual dye that can last up to 12 months. Prior to application warm up the plastic with a hot air gun until it was warm/hot to the touch. It comes with a clear coat product also to give it more protection and more shine.

Exterior Trim Renovation (ETR) a three-product system that comprises-
  • Surface Prep
  • Colour Guard, Toner
  • UVR Guard
Each system comes in an 8 oz. container; the kit also includes mixing sticks, mixing cups for the production of grey

Product source - Automotive International ETR II Kit -

Alternative products-
a) GR -40 Trim & Molding Restoration Kit -

b)Designed for any color exterior plastic such as on the Mini Cooper, Honda Element, Jeep Cherokee, Toyota Tacoma, and others, this gel will restore your trims natural color without use of dyes or colorants and provides a rich, long lasting look. What you want to do is thoroughly clean the plastic with a cleaner like rubbing alcohol, or other chemical designed just for wax/polish removal, before dressing. Black Wow –

Maintenance- Forever BLACK™ Car Care Products - use specially formulated dyes instead of silicone to bring back the life to faded black bumpers, trim, tires, bed liners, etc and they hold the colour much longer and help protect against environmental elements such as ultra violet radiation (UVR) and doesn’t attract road grime or dust -

Trim product test -http://www.jwardell.com/mini/2006/09/10/the-final-trim-test-we-have-a-winner/
 
borabora1989 said:
does anyone know how to remove dried paste wax on these moldings?
Click to expand...

As the previous poster said. That'll work. You could also use any automotive All purpose cleaner like Meguiars APC+ and scrub it off w/ a toothbrush or detail brush.
 
I know this is an old thread, but was hoping to get some help. I'm new to the forum, and live outside Austin Texas; hi everyone. I just bought a 2005 Subaru Baja, that has some black plastic trim around the rear window, and along the top on the roof rack. There is brown stuff on a lot of the trim; it looks to be sprayed on. I thought it might be some crap they sprayed on it at the car lot because I didn't notice that much of it when I bought it, but it seems more has shown since then.

Anyway, I've tried a Meguiars product, as well as 3M's plastic cleaner, and neither did anything. Is there a way to get this stuff off?

I posted a picture in the gallery and you can see the brown on the roof rack ends, even from a distance. I sure hope someone can help.

Thanks in advance....Jeff
 
anyone use shin-etsu? Its great on the soft seal door mouldings and it stops/reduces leaks and squeaks!

hardtop s2000 owners know all about this!

image.php
 
CK_Autospa said:
anyone use shin-etsu? Its great on the soft seal door mouldings and it stops/reduces leaks and squeaks!

hardtop s2000 owners know all about this!

image.php
Click to expand...

In the Corvette forums the recommend dielectrical grease for the same thing.. Thoughts?
 
jem7sk said:
In the Corvette forums the recommend dielectrical grease for the same thing.. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Oh funny...back in the 70's GM used to recommend Dow Corning #4...or was it #7? for door seals, etc. These were silicone dielectric greases (one was thicker than the other) that would be used for things like insulating high voltage ignition parts (anyone who had a GM HEI ignition system from the 70's knows what I'm talking about...although I'm trying to remember what part that grease went on...wasn't there a big rubber washer that the rotor contact went through?).

Anyway, I'm sure there's lots better products today for door seals, although I can kind of understand why you might want a grease for a removable hard top.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top