Trouble with pads gumming up.

Andy602

Andy602

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Hi guys,

I'm having some problems with my pads gumming up. I use my flex 3401 with LC hydro tech pads, I've even used some Menzerna pads. I've used M105 and M205 earlier but wanted to try out Menzernas products and that's when my problems came up. I use Menzerna FG400 and SF4000 and really like the results they produce but not the gumming.
I've tried misting the pads to prolong the working time but it still gums up.
I clean my pads with a terry cotton towel after every panel or even twice on every panel. After a couple of panels I wash the pads and switch to a fresh pad.
Since this is a pretty common set up I'm wondering if anyone can help me out.


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Menzerna gums up MF pads worse than any other polish/compound for me. I suppose they not designed for MF or closed cell structure pads? They work fine on wool or open cell foam though.
 
Good thing i have a couple of CG pads laying around. I'll try them tomorrow.
Thank you for the fast response!!


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Are you priming the entire pad first? If so, that's your issue. The way to prime a pad for menzerna is just 4-6 dots, then 3 dots for each subsequent section.
 
Another useful tip I believe since I've been priming my pads like I've always done with other polishes.
Thank you Zubair I'll try that tomorrow.


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Yeah, oily polishes don't need priming. Use less.
 
First mistake to much product,and along with that you wet the pads. other than that there's a lot of variables .
 
FG 400 Fresh Pad each panel, they gum up no matter what.


Great results with a price. I think once the heat builds up in the pads it adds to the gumming up. You can only clean so much on the fly too. As pads cost $$$ my solution has been to use more and change often to preserve the integrity and life of the pad and the effectiveness of the polish. As the pad gums up the polish is less effective, the heat builds up and the pad can fail. These were brand new LC pads, used my Rupes 15.

Side note: I have done all the other suggestions etc etc.




 
fly07sti said:
Are you priming the entire pad first? If so, that's your issue. The way to prime a pad for menzerna is just 4-6 dots, then 3 dots for each subsequent section.
Click to expand...

Absolutely. Especially with Menzerna. If I go with 5 fits around the edge, I'll use very small dots.

I clean the with the pad conditioning brush after each section too.
 
Yes, a brush will help. I use a fairly stiff scrub brush and lightly go over it with the polisher set at a low speed. It helps pick the build up off. I was trying to use the towel technique to be gentle on mine but it just doesn't seem to clean them as well. I believe a brush will wear the pads a little faster, but it should not affect their performance.
 
Combination of too much product, too little cleaning, too long using each pad.

Prime with 3~5 dots, you can even smear the dots a bit towards the inside (like spokes) with your finger if you like.

When you say you clean the pad after each panel (or twice during a panel) I'd say change that. I'd move to cleaning the pad on the fly with a brush, AND a towel after EACH section pass. You can then use 2 more TINY dots and do your next section pass.

Many times you'll use 2 pads per panel, and on large panels like hoods, even roofs, trunks, and rear quarters you'll use more. I've used as many as 4 pads on a hood, although that's more than I needed. I did it though to keep heat from building up inside the pad(s). Remember that the pad to paint surface isn't where most of your heat is going to build up. Where you will get most of it is between the pad and the backing plate! That heat permeates within the pad and continues to build. Combine that with the friction from the pad to paint surface AND the ever adding product, abraded paint, moisture all within the pad and it'll get pretty full, pretty quick.

The trick is to go first in, first out with your pads. Setup say 4 pads minimum to do a hood, and do one section with the first one. Clean it on the fly, set it aside and let it cool. Next section with #2, again cleaning on the fly, setting aside to cool. Then to #3, #4 and so on. Moving back to #1 in a round robin fashion. This'll allow the pads to cool and keep you working. Trying to do a hood with a single pad, or 2... (especially if it's hot out) is an invitation to gumming up, as well as likely premature pad failure.

Never can have too many pads. ;)
 
Glad I read this as I hope to use my Menzerna products this coming week, weather permitting.
 
gosh I had no idea that it was normal to rotate through so many pads.

I feel great that I have 3 white CCS now!
 
I agree with Cardaddy on maybe spreading out the polish towards the center of the pad - using the 3401. On the PC I stay at the edges, as the polish migrates to the center naturally.

On the PC, I notice that I can use speed 4.5 with the Cyan/FG400 combo, and light pressure, and end up with great correction. The slower speeds, reduced amount of polish, and lighter pressure help the general health of the pad.

These pads do not react well to heat either, which is why I avoid using them on my Flex. Another example of where Tony's recommendation of many pads is crucial. Where I can usually get away with using two pads per step for cutting and polishing - on the pc, I wouldn't want to try that on the Flex.
 
Besides all the worthy comments posted here, Menzerna products gums up more on higher temps.
It is very difficult to work with it over 32C.
 
Oceans05 said:
gosh I had no idea that it was normal to rotate through so many pads.

I feel great that I have 3 white CCS now!
Click to expand...

THREE?
Hahahahaaaaa..... by FAR your most useful pad(s) are the white ones. You should have more of them than any other. If, for compounding...you have 4 orange, you should have 6 white. If you have 4 blue for polishing, you should have 6 white.

What I'm saying is white can compound AND polish, (with quite a number of compound and polish products).


My first order from AG years ago was a GG6, small backing plate extra. I ordered over 2 dozen pads of each size with that order. I easily have over a 100 pads now. (Many have never been used!) :rolleyes: Thing is... if I need one, and don't have it, I have to stop what I'm doing. I've never been one to have to stop like that.

Doesn't matter if it's detailing or working around the house. Doing a tile job... buy a tile saw. Doing trim work, buy a compound miter saw. Sanding... buy belt and rotary sanders. Need to pre-drill deck for the railings... don't mess with hand drills... buy a drill press! Painting... oh I absolutely LOVE to paint (when I feel like it that is) and that calls for nothing less than Corona brushes. They lay on paint like nothing else. You can cut in like crazy with a 3" even a 3½" brush, yet still lay down a nice solid paint line. Expensive, yes... but they save you time in the end run. Tools are just something we need to get the job done right. Levels ya' say... heheheee.... we have hand held, we have 2 foot, 4 foot, 6 foot, we have wall mount with lasers, tripod mount with lasers, WATER levels! By George I can get schite level around here! Won't catch me leaning. :laughing:Im the MAN


The reality is... pads are actually MORE important than the buffer. They are THE thing you are using when buffing/polishing/correcting paint. You wouldn't go into paint correction without a good buffer, without a good selection of towels, without a good selection of buffing liquids. Why go in without a complete selection of PADS?




GSKR said:
Those look like harbor f pads
Click to expand...

Oh no they do not.

Unless HF are copying LC flats. ;)
 
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