First good weather of the year here today, decided to give the daily a good handwash. Besides the needing of a clay, polish, and another coat of WGDGS it dont look too bad. Until it came to the running boards. Salt, brine, road crap has taken a bad toll on them. Nit sure where to start with removing oxidation and haze. Suggestions?
Truck survived winter, almost...
- Thread starter Krwtek1
- Start date
custmsprty
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- Apr 11, 2012
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Sand paper will most likely scratch the heck out of those. Try a good chrome/metal polish with a power ball or small spot buffer.
Have you tried a metal polish? Does the corrosion seem to be below the coating or is it rough on the surface? The issue I would see with sandpaper is these running boards are coated with chrome and sanding them down could end up making them look just as dull. I would start with a metal polish and a lot of elbow grease (or polishing ball and drill). If they are bubbling and the chrome is already deteriorated your into bigger issues. during the winter months it is a good idea to at least spray off the brine.
- Thread starter
- #6
Im going to try some metal polish tomorrow evening. It is rough on top, the brown spots seem to be rust. I am tempted to just leave them alone and have them warrantied sinde the truck is still under 3/36. If they dont polish out and they end up getting replaced what will keep this from hapening next winter? I coated these with wg sealant several times. Never had an issue last winter, just this winter. Seems like the oxidation starts under the plastic step treads and end caps and travels outward.
Charleston
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- Apr 18, 2012
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Steel wool and aluminum/metal polish. Should make quick work of them. I use this combo on a lot of things, wheels, exhaust tips etc.
oldmodman
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- Sep 25, 2007
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It looks like the factory applied clear has come off of the areas close to the ends of the plates.
Try polishing them in the cloudy looking areas but I am afraid that they will need to be stripped, polished, and sprayed with clear again to make them look like new.
Try polishing them in the cloudy looking areas but I am afraid that they will need to be stripped, polished, and sprayed with clear again to make them look like new.
damaged442
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- Apr 10, 2013
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Collinite Metal Wax or Blue Magic Metal Polish always worked well for me.
Desertnate
Well-known member
- Aug 5, 2013
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Is that the finishing breaking down, or really heavy gunk that doesn't wash off easily? Does it feel rough to the touch?
I think I'd start with a strong application of an APC and a little scrubbing with a MF pad, and then move on to gentle metal polishes like other have recommended if things don't improve.
I think I'd start with a strong application of an APC and a little scrubbing with a MF pad, and then move on to gentle metal polishes like other have recommended if things don't improve.
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 1
See if you can pop out the "rubber inserts"...it's amazing
the amount of contamination you'll find around this area.
Mother's has a couple of chrome cleaners/polishes
that'll help you cut through this crud:
• Mothers California Gold All-Chrome Cleaner
• Mothers Chrome Polish is an easy-to-use liquid metal polish that cleans & brightens chrome wheels and rims. Mothers Chrome Polish is gentle on shiny
Very gently use Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover
on the rusty spots hidden by the "rubber insert".
Bob
the amount of contamination you'll find around this area.
Mother's has a couple of chrome cleaners/polishes
that'll help you cut through this crud:
• Mothers California Gold All-Chrome Cleaner
• Mothers Chrome Polish is an easy-to-use liquid metal polish that cleans & brightens chrome wheels and rims. Mothers Chrome Polish is gentle on shiny
Very gently use Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover
on the rusty spots hidden by the "rubber insert".
Bob
- Thread starter
- #12
I used some CG heavy duty wash concentrant diluted to bug/tar removal duties on a small portion of the running board tonight. After letting dwell for a few minutes and some serious scrubbing the hazy oxidation was removed. Slowly, very slowly. I am going to try some apc on another test spot tomorrow when I have some more time and see how that cuts it. It seems like the oxidation is sitting on top of the surface. I think these steps are clear coated so i am going to take my time and be patient. Now as far as the stainless exhaust tip goes, its covered in the same crud but has some tough baked on tar covering it. Once the steps are clean im going to tackle it next. I dont think it is clear coated so i might try the steel wool and metal polish method. Do you guys steel wool then metal polish or use the metal polish with the steel wool?
- Thread starter
- #13
Ok it seemed like the CG tar and bug wash was working but it was the scrubbing action that was removing the oxidation not the chemical. Not knowing if they are clear coated or not Intreated them as if they were. I started with WG Swirl Remover and worked through my componds testing them one by one. Megs 105 had the best results being it was the modt agressive cut. At this point i assumed they were real chrome and not clear coated. I then started a new test spot using my metal polishes. I ended up using good old TW Chrome Polish I had from long ago. I used it to polish my chrome handle bars, forks, and crank on my bmx bike when i was a kid... It worked, still slowly but it worked the best. I have about 45 minutes in polishing half of the drivers side running board... Im going to remove them from the truck, remove the plastic and brackets so i can get to all areas, and finish the polishing. What do you suggest I coat them with to give the best protection and prevent this mess from happening next year?