Trying to get a show car shine on my Mustang (fresh paint)

I can't blame you a bit, it looks great as is. If you do decide to try the look out, you could get it done in vinyl, something similar to the stuff they do the wraps/clearbras with. That way, you could remove it later on, without the need to break out the paint.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Hopefully Mike will give his 2 cents

Hi Mark,

It was pleasure meeting you at the Dallas GTG, sorry for the late reply but it looks like you posted this at 5:00pm on Sunday night and I try to take Sunday's off, nothing wrong with working 7 days a week, been there and done that but it's not healthy over the long run for a lot of different reasons.

As I type this it's 9:30am Monday morning and this thread is already 3 pages long!


What does body shop safe polish have to do with wet sanding and polishing the paint. Any compound and polish can be used to remove wet sanding marks and finish polishing.

If and that's the key word here because I don't think Mark said how old the paint is, but if the paint is less than 30 days old, (and lets hope it is), then technically you're only supposed to use product that are body shop safe on it because it is still fresh paint.

Now the thing about this is I don't know of any popular compounds and polishes commonly used for removing sanding marks that are not body shop safe as most of the players in this industry are making these product for body shops, not detailers or enthusiasts.

I actually came across some very coarse cutting compounds in the Marine industry that had a build in Carnauba wax and because Carnauba can seal paint then you wouldn't want to use a compound like this on fresh paint as the idea is to not seal paint until after 30 days air-cure has passed.

And yes I know and have participated in all the threads that go on and on and on about how modern paints are chemically cured and you can seal them within days after they have been sprayed but there's not a SINGLE paint MANUFACTURE that recommends sealing their brand of fresh paint with any kind of wax or paint sealant until a MINIMUM of 30 days have passed and most go to 60 days to be on the safe side.


If ANYONE want to discuss body shop safe or sealing fresh paint please start your own thread on this topic and let's let Mark have his thread dedicated towards his questions about his project.



:)
 
In fact I'm about to order some m205 off of here on autogeek and I would like to know what else to order based on what you recommend
 
If you are going to order M205 might as well order M105. Since you already have ultrafina use that as your finishing polish.
 
In fact I'm about to order some m205 off of here on autogeek and I would like to know what else to order based on what you recommend


Generally speaking it's a good idea to use a system approach due to the synergistic chemical compatibility between products and steps so if you're going to finish with M205 then pick up either M105 or M95

I posted in another thread a few minutes ago that if memory serves me correctly I thought M95 had a longer buffing cycle before it tried to dry up and become difficult to work with or wipe off, if you don't mind waiting till tomorrow I'll go out into the garage tonight and buff with both and see if I can tell a real difference. I can't get to it till after 6:00pm Eastern time due to other priorities today.


Otherwise, pick one or the other and get the W5500 Double Sided Wool Cutting pad as this is a 5 Star cutting pad fro removing sanding marks. If you don't have a pad washer that would be the second tool you should invest in after a rotary buffer, especially if you buff cars out with any kind or frequency.

As for sandpaper, what are you going to use?

Are you hand sanding or machine sanding? Machine sanding is always easier to buff out but you can really only do machine sanding on the larger flat panels because you don't want to sand on edges.


:)
 
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