Uber vs Swirl Remover

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brapril714

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Using TSR 3.0 and getting good results, all swirls are coming out, but some "scratches" are still there. I can't feel them with my fingernail, would this be a job for Uber? :buffing:
 
Without seeing a picture or knowing what pad/polisher, but Uber does have more cut, yet it can finish very well in most cases. I have even used it after spot sanding with 2000 and it worked fantastic.
 
According to the AGO guide - if you can catch your nail, you need more intensive repair. Compound won't fix the issue.
 
I can not catch my nail on it. I'm using a CCS 6.5" Orangle Light Cutting Pad and speed set on 6.
 
What kind of polisher? Also, I'd recommend a 5" BP and 5.5" pads for more effectiveness from your DA. Do you have Uber, or are you looking to purchase? I have A LOT of 2oz Uber samples if you just want to try it.
 
Uber is awesome. Honestly, I would buy it anyway just to have, because you never know when you'll need it.
 
Yeah switch to the 5" backing plate and 5.5" flat pads

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online
 
Maybe try a yellow cutting pad or a MF pad with TSR.
 
So I've been using the uber compound with decent results. There are some RIDS I'll have to work on later. I'm wondering if the 6.5" pad is to large to allow the PC to remove enough material. Would 4", 5" or 5.5" be better?
 
mwoolfso said:
Yes. MUC is around an 8 and Uber I believe is a 10.
Click to expand...

While the numbers may say this, in my experience the difference is more substantial. On my Wife's Volt, 2 passes with MUC on microfiber still left defects while 1 with Uber made quick and easy work of them.

I love MUC on my Honda because its paint is pretty soft, but on hard GM paint Uber is the way to go.
 
OK, I couldn't find any 5 or 5.5" pads in town, but found 4" and backing plate. OMG what a difference. is 4" to small other than taking a long time. Or would 5" be better.
 
That size is good for spot touch up and tighter areas. I wouldn't try to go over a full car with it. In my arsenal, I have 6.5, 5.5, & 3 in pads.
 
Yes. Nothing wrong with 4" other than the lower overall surface area.

On the flip side, the smaller the pad, the mute cutting power your PC will have, so you may actually save some time by doing fewer passes.

It totally depends on the variables your working with: How bad are the defects, how hard is the paint, what pads, chemicals, techniques, etc.,
 
brapril714 said:
I can not catch my nail on it. I'm using a CCS 6.5" Orangle Light Cutting Pad and speed set on 6.
Click to expand...

Have you marked your backing plate?


Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation


MarkYourBackingPlate01.jpg


Here's a quick video that show how and why to mark your backing plate to see and monitor pad rotation while doing any correction or polishing steps.


[video=youtube_share;QM8PnDooZP8&hd=1"]How To Check Pad Rotation on a DA Polisher -...[/video]​





If not... do so...

If a pad is not rotating you are not doing anything.

Pad rotation on a PC style DA Polisher is mandatory to remove paint and you remove swirls by removing paint. It's that simple.

If your lager, thicker pads are not rotating well then doesn't matter what compound or polish you're using you need pad rotation.

I've actually seen guys try to argue that pad rotation isn't important but I'll tell you this, if the pad is just vibrating or jiggling against the paint it's going to take you a long time to remove any type of paint defects.


:)
 
For reference....

ALL compounds and polishes from ANY manufacturer can be placed into one of 4 categories.

Aggressive Compound
Medium Cut Polish
Fine Cut Polish
Ultra Fine Cut Polish

Rupes does a great job of making it simple Simon to know what each of their products is and therefore what it does and thus when you use one over the other.

Here's my article on Wolfgang compounds and polishes....


The Wolfgang Four


Here are four products that will take care of about 99.9% of any exterior paint correction product you'll ever have in your garage.


The Wolfgang Four
The_Wolfgang_Four.jpg



Forum member RFulmer coined this term, (due credit where credit is due), and since there's been a lot of questions about what each product is, what they do, the order of aggressiveness and when you use one over the other, here's some info...





Uber Compound
  • Aggressive Compound - More aggressive than Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze.
  • For use with any type of polisher/buffer and can be used by hand.
  • Body Shop Safe = Can be used in a fresh paint. environment (body shop) and can be used on fresh paint, (paint just sprayed and less than 30 days old).
  • Safe for Ceramiclear paints.
  • Cafe for all clear coat paints.
  • Safe for all single stage paints.
  • For some people on some cars it can be used as a compound/polish after which the paint can be sealed with a wax or synthetic paint sealant.


Total Swirl Remover
  • Medium Cut Polish - Less aggressive than Uber Compound and more aggressive than Wolfgang Finishing Glaze.
  • For use with any type of polisher/buffer and can be used by hand.
  • Body Shop Safe = Can be used in a fresh paint. environment (body shop) and can be used on fresh paint, (paint just sprayed and less than 30 days old).
  • Safe for Ceramiclear paints.
  • Cafe for all clear coat paints.
  • Safe for all single stage paints.
  • Should be tested before using Uber Compound to see if it will remove defects to our satisfaction in keeping with the practice of using the least aggressive product to get the job done.


Finishing Glaze
  • Fine Cut Polish - Much less aggressive than Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover and of course dramatically less aggressive than Wolfgang Uber Compound.
  • For use with any type of polisher/buffer and can be used by hand.
  • Body Shop Safe = Can be used in a fresh paint. environment (body shop) and can be used on fresh paint, (paint just sprayed and less than 30 days old).
  • Safe for Ceramiclear paints.
  • Cafe for all clear coat paints.
  • Safe for all single stage paints.
  • Should be tested before using Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover to see if it will remove defects to our satisfaction in keeping with the practice of using the least aggressive product to get the job done.
  • Great "Maintenance Polish" for use removing shallow swirls that show up over time from normal wear-n-tear on daily drivers and after a person has already performed a multi-step procedure to remove serious paint defects.


Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0
  • German engineered synthetic paint sealant.
  • Non-cleaning, pure synthetic - Paint must be in excellent condition as in brand new or previously polished to like new condition before use.
  • Can be applied by hand or any type of dual action polisher wit foam pads.
  • This product "seals" the paint in the say way a car wax or paint coating will seal the paint. It is water insoluble and as such like all synthetic paint sealants, car waxes and paint coatings is not body shop safe.
  • Requires 30 to 45 minutes of drying time before removal.
  • Oxygen activated. After buffing off the excess sealant the remaining protection ingredients should be allowed to cure and fully set-up for an approximate 12 hour window of time before the vehicle is put back into service where it will be exposed to water.
Synergistic Chemical Compatibility
Each product is chemically compatible and chemically beneficial when used as a system approach to take a diamond in the rough and turn it into a glistening gemstone. Using the entire line in the correct order or just a few of the product in the correct order is an example of working forward in the paint polishing process.


All Inclusive System-Approach
This group of four products with just about any tool, any pad and even by hand will produce not only show car results but do it consistently across a VERY wide spectrum of paint systems including,
  • Hard paints, soft paints and everything in-between.
  • Factory OEM paints and aftermarket repaints at your local body shop or custom paint shop.
  • Single stage and basecoat clearcoat.
Which products do you need?
Which product you'll need depend upon the condition of the paint on the car. Click to my list of paint condition categories and read through the descriptions for the different categories. Then after washing and drying your car, inspect the paint both with your sense of touch, (The Baggie Test), and visually with your eyes in bright light for swirls and scratches.

Then determine which category your car's paint fall into. Here are some general guidelines but the best way to determine which exact product you'll need to remove the defects and restore the finish on your car to your expectations can only be determined by doing a Test Spot


How To Do a Test Spot


Test Spot results showing the before and after difference...

FlexVideo005.jpg







On Autogeek.net

Wolfgang Uber Compound 3.0

Total Swirl Remover

Finishing Glaze

Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0


And if you don't have a 5" backing plate and 5.5" pads get them...

5 inch Backing Plates on Meguiar's, Griot's and Porter Cable DA Polishers


:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks Mike, always enjoy reading your write ups. I ordered some 5.5" pads and that did the job.
 
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