Ultimate Polish issue

[javig999]

Have previously used the UC, UP, and UW combo (after wash and clay) with results I am pleased with. Recently, I have been having issues with UP being very difficult to remove. Builds up terribly and I have to bring in some quick detailer to be able to actually get it off the surface without wanting to put my head through a wall. By the time I am done rubbing it with a towel and QD it is not looking so hot.

I use the Harbor Freight DA polisher with their pads. Getting ready to do the wife's minivan and I cannot see working with it if this will be the case.

Could it be the product is too old? Too little product? Too much? Bad Pads?

Thanks in advance...

 

[parttimer]

Are you using HF pads? Not heard of anyone using them before. I have not used the UP only UC and had no problems removing it.

 

[Edse30]

I had this happened to me. Turned out the paint was soo oxidized that my pads were gumming up pretty quick and made it very difficult to remove. My solution-smaller sections and wash pads more often.

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[Desertnate]

I use the same polisher and the same pads with UP as well. Could you have been using too much product? Where you in direct sun?

I've done two vehicles so far in my hot, humid garage with no removal issues at all. I put 3 or 4 pea sized drops on a primed pad. It buffs right off for me.

 

[Audios S6]

I had this happened to me. Turned out the paint was soo oxidized that my pads were gumming up pretty quick and made it very difficult to remove. My solution-smaller sections and wash pads more often.

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^^^^Nailed it. Try smaller sections, fewer passes and cleaning pads more frequently. UC should be very easy to work with. M105 can be tricky - some folks (like me) who have trouble with working time, add some mineral oil as they are working to increase workability and working time - you could try the same with UC, but I haven't heard that being necessary.

 

[cardaddy]

I had this happened to me. Turned out the paint was soo oxidized that my pads were gumming up pretty quick and made it very difficult to remove. My solution-smaller sections and wash pads more often.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2

^^^^Nailed it. Try smaller sections, fewer passes and cleaning pads more frequently. UC should be very easy to work with. M105 can be tricky - some folks (like me) who have trouble with working time, add some mineral oil as they are working to increase workability and working time - you could try the same with UC, but I haven't heard that being necessary.

THESE!

Megs UP is probably the easiest stuff to work with ever. Make sure you primed your pad correctly first, spread the product on slow speed, then make no more than 4 medium arm speed passes on buffer speed 5-ish. Very important to keep between your shoulders and not work too large an area.

It may be, depending on the ambient temp (and surface temp) that you can get away with more section passes, or less even. :dunno: It is VERY important to remove the product before it dries up from over working! Don't work it till it dries out.

Remember that it's a SMAT based product and will continue to cut as well as continue to build up spent product, crud, dirt, paint, etc. around the particles as long as you work it. If it were a DAT product you can literally (almost) work it till you see nothing left.

That and clean your pads on the fly after EVERY section. (Using both a soft terry towel and a brush and/or pad spur.)

Just work it a few passes and remove. If you need more correction / better gloss then do it again. No reason to try and over work it.

And of course 105 was mentioned as it is (at times) like throwing super glue mixed with concrete on the paint. I've got to where I never work it by itself anymore, EVER! Either prime the pad with another product, (UC perhaps) or mix drops of 105 with 101, or UC, or just plain old mineral oil (baby oil).

 

[javig999]

Thanks all...I think too much product is a culprit, and cleaner pads should help. Have a great weekend!