Upcoming project questions. Original 1933 lacquer paint

[DetailDrivenEugene]

Hi Mike.

I have a job coming up that I wanted your take on. It’s an original 1933 Rolls Royce. My client knows there are parts of the car that will need resprayed, and wants me to get the original paint as good as it can be, before it goes in for paint, so he and the painter can evaluate exactly what areas they will be repainting. Obviously he wants to leave as much original paint as possible.

I’ll be using the Meguires #7 method before least aggressive method first approach with Wolfgang products. I spoke to Wolfgang this morning, and they said their products are safe to use on old SS lacquer.

my question is, what would be a good “plan B” product line to have on hand in case the Wolfgang products don’t do what I need them to. Occasionally, I run across modern paint that requires me to use something else to achieve the results I’m looking for, so I’d like to have a plan in place before I start.

Thanks,
Robert Moore

 

[Bill D]

Wow! What a car! Can’t wait to see it! Good luck with it.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Hi Mike.

I have a job coming up that I wanted your take on. It’s an original 1933 Rolls Royce.

My client knows there are parts of the car that will need resprayed, and wants me to get the original paint as good as it can be, before it goes in for paint, so he and the painter can evaluate exactly what areas they will be repainting.

Obviously he wants to leave as much original paint as possible.

Hi Robert,

I've helped people do exactly what you're trying to do, that is restore the full richness of color to old paint so the painter has the best chance at color matching it.

I would stick with the #7 as one of the things the trade secret oils in the #7 does is bring out the full richness of color in the pigments. Of course, when working on single stage paint you're working on PIGMENTED resin. When working on basecoat/clearcoat paints you're NOT working on pigments but more or less a sprayable plastic.


What condition is the saveable paint in now?

Chalky and oxidized?

Or does it have a hard shine?


Also - what type of machines do you have?

 

[DetailDrivenEugene]

Hi Robert,

I've helped people do exactly what you're trying to do, that is restore the full richness of color to old paint so the painter has the best chance at color matching it.

I would stick with the #7 as one of the things the trade secret oils in the #7 does is bring out the full richness of color in the pigments. Of course, when working on single stage paint you're working on PIGMENTED resin. When working on basecoat/clearcoat paints you're NOT working on pigments but more or less a sprayable plastic.


What condition is the saveable paint in now?

Chalky and oxidized?

Or does it have a hard shine?


Also - what type of machines do you have?

I just got back from picking up a battery charger for the lotus I’m working on for the same client this week, and had a chance to inspect the Rolls Royce while I was there.

The paint overall has a decent shine. Lots of swirling and marring, and scratches. Some discolored areas, and light oxidation. Over all, not bad for its age. I tried to download a couple of pictures, but as usual, I keep getting an “error” message. (I work on lots of cool stuff, and would love to share with the forum, but can’t seem to get the pictures figured out)

I have 2 flex 3401 machines, a flex 3”, and my trusty rotary that hardly ever gets used anymore.

Going to use body shop safe spray detailer to wipe the whole car down before claybar is used. Then #7 as many times as it takes until it is not soaking it up anymore. Then least aggressive Wolfgang products and pads I can get away with to get the job done. I will also be utilizing a paint thickness gauge to identify any thin spots before polishing.

I’m basically looking for plan b products to have on hand(body shop safe and safe for SS lacquer), in case the Wolfgang products don’t give me the results I’m looking for.

Thanks!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I just got back from picking up a battery charger for the lotus I’m working on for the same client this week, and had a chance to inspect the Rolls Royce while I was there.

The paint overall has a decent shine. Lots of swirling and marring, and scratches. Some discolored areas, and light oxidation. Over all, not bad for its age. I tried to download a couple of pictures, but as usual, I keep getting an “error” message. (I work on lots of cool stuff, and would love to share with the forum, but can’t seem to get the pictures figured out)

Yep... most people struggle with picturs on a forum. Easiset thing to do is add them to your posts via TapaTalk on your phone.

If you're working via a computer - then you need to resize them. Most cameras and even phones take HUGE file size pictures and our gallery software won't allow HUGE photos otherwise it will be filled up in no time. I have dozens of articles on this somewhere on this forum.

Here's what I know though - the gallery works fine once you figure out how to use it - I'm living proof. I upload hundreds of photos every week with no problems.

I have 2 flex 3401 machines, a flex 3”, and my trusty rotary that hardly ever gets used anymore.

The FLEX 3401 is fairly aggressive for old single stage paint. Probably should use a foam finishing pad, maybe a polishing pad.

Going to use body shop safe spray detailer to wipe the whole car down before claybar is used. Then #7 as many times as it takes until it is not soaking it up anymore. Then least aggressive Wolfgang products and pads I can get away with to get the job done. I will also be utilizing a paint thickness gauge to identify any thin spots before polishing.

Stick with the Total Swirl Remover or the Finishing Glaze. The Total Swirl Remover is a medium cut polish and the Finishing Glaze is a fine cut polish. The Finishing Glaze is NOT a glaze, wrong word for what the product is - causes lots of confusion. :dunno:

I’m basically looking for plan b products to have on hand (body shop safe and safe for SS lacquer), in case the Wolfgang products don’t give me the results I’m looking for.

Thanks!

You could try a simple paint cleaner like the Wolfgang paint cleaner, can't think of the name.

Meguiar's UC or UP - I "think" they are free from any silicones or other ingredients that cause surface tension.