Updated 11/21/11: Clear Coat Failure and Repair(with all pics)

Dont sand it, just clean it really well, any scratches u put in the base coat may and most likely will be see-able through the clear. I like to use a body solvent such as acrysol or something of the sort, you can get things like this from a auto paint store.
 
Bradley,

I think his question was more aimed at what grit to use to sand the clear to get a good bond with the new. And if not, that is my current question anyways.

I am attempting this repair right now, just taking a quick break.

I am using a tiny piece of 1000 grit and am sanding down the ridges. I have it pretty flat, but I can still feel a slight ridge.

Should I keep going at it carefully to get it flatter or is that enough? The ridge is really small now, but still there.
 
The process has begun. Im on my third coat of clear.

Gonna lay down one more in ten minutes. I am getting a bit of orange peel. So I may lay down a fifth so I can wetsand that one off to smooth it out.

I tried back masking but couldnt figure it out, the tape I have is so darn stick it gets bunched up trying to roll it back by myself. So I did what the OP did just laying down the tape.

Ill post pics later.
 
Ugh. It looks terrible!

It either has massive orange peel or something went wrong during the painting.

Maybe I am jumping the gun on this. But it has no gloss at all and looks nothing like my other clear. Looks much lighter.
 
So how's this repair job looking these days? I'm going to try something similar on my wife's car (though I plan on using the 2K spray).
 
So how's this repair job looking these days? I'm going to try something similar on my wife's car (though I plan on using the 2K spray).

Ugh. It looks terrible!

It either has massive orange peel or something went wrong during the painting.

Maybe I am jumping the gun on this. But it has no gloss at all and looks nothing like my other clear. Looks much lighter.

Bump for 02nissanISR's ongoing results (how's it holding up) and for timaishu, did you ever smooth out the orange peel and get your repair looking good?
 
I've seen this thread time and time again and each time I look at it I'm more and more impressed. FANTASTIC job!!!
 
After my first attempt(my last post on this thread), I sanded it off and tried again and the first coat went on perfect. But the second coat looked my crap again. No idea what I was doing wrong. So I sanded it as smooth as I could and then polished it out. Its already peeling again.

I have completely given up trying to do it myself. Im either going to replace the fender with a factory color correct one. Or Im just gonna let it peel and say #### it. I wish I had the money to dump this car.
 
Do you think that an actual 2k clear would work better? Perhaps even better if it was topped off with Opti-Coat 2.0?
 
Wow! I would never think you could get great results like that in the driveway. Fantastic job!
 
I know this is a really old thread, but I'm currently working on a similar project. The car is a low mileage 2001 Pontiac Sunfire. Other than a pretty serious case of delamination, the car is in near perfect condition. The delamination is on the roof and the top rail of the driver side doors. It doesn't make economic sense to get a professional paint job, so if I can make it look okay from 10 feet away, this project will be a success.

After sanding off the bad, I am down to the primer in a few spots. I will use Duplicolor to cover these spots. Should I sand the undamaged spots on the roof and re-clear the whole roof? If so what grit? I was going to sand the undamaged spots with 800 grit sandpaper so the new clear would have a good bond, but after reading the posts from Bradley 5.0 I wonder if that is a bad idea. I thought that if I just sprayed right on top of the old clear that it would not have a good bond. I thought if I sanded the old clear, that the new clear would fill in and cover the marks. Is that wrong?

Please Help! Thanks!
 
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