Using a Clay Bar On Paint Coatings?

Very much appreciate the reply. Have done some testing, which is why I'm on the fence.

zmcgovern45 said:
Water beading is not an indication of protection, only high surface tension. Scratch protection is not a major benefit of these nano coatings in my opinion.
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To me, water beading/sheeting likely means less dirt - water will tend to carry the dirt off. Coatings that stop sheeting don't tend to stay any cleaner than uncoated areas in my (limited) experience. So if being cleaner isn't a benefit once a coating stops sheeting, and scratch protection isn't a major benefit, what's left in terms of the value?

Don't mean to come across as challenging - I'm trying to get my head around this.
 
Klasse Act said:
FWIW I completely agree about chemical decon on a coated car, no doubt about it. Spray it on, let it dwell and rinse away....BAM! I think some people think that because its strong enough to remove the embedded contaminants and turn that red/purple color that its going to hurt the coating and I too used to be in this camp but not anymore!
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My issue would be that Iron X would remove iron contamination but there are many other types of contamination that can bond to the car besides iron. Is the iron x going to remove them?
 
Well based on the name I would have to say no but maybe somebody else can chime in the nose better.

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Iron X doesn't just dissolve iron particles, it's also a pretty strong decrease as well. I would follow up with tar X as well or maybe just use Trix. I use Trix and aside from tar and iron contaminants, I don't think you'll find really other contaminants on your coating left after you use the two.
 
WillSports3 said:
I use Trix and aside from tar and iron contaminants, I don't think you'll find really other contaminants on your coating left after you use the two.
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You forgot the occasional paint overspray, water spots, embedded dirt, etc... All of which IronX is anywhere from below average to completely ineffective at removing.

You could apply IronX + TarX all you want, and when you're done you'll still fail the baggie test because the only way to truly remove those embedded above surface contaminants and make your paint surface smooth once again is by using clay or a claymitt.

IronX does next to squat when it comes to removing contaminants from the paint. Especially when you consider the fact that clay will also remove iron particles, which renders an iron removing spray even more obsolete if you really think about it.
 
WillSports3 said:
Iron X doesn't just dissolve iron particles,
it's also a pretty strong decrease as well.
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IMO:
One CarPro product having the ability to
dissolve iron particles...plus having a de-
greasing attribute...is more in the realm
of CarPro’s ”IronX Snow Soap”


Bob
 
Iron X has strong decreasing agents in it, it's why if you iron X a waxed car you should rewax after. Water spots is clear coat etching. I'm not sure why would you clay for water spots? If you're talking about just the pure white spots on a car before it etches, I just use a qd to get it off a coating. And claying does not get rid of everything. Try using fall out remover on a freshly clayed white car and watch the red.

I've never had an issue with my car failing the baggie test after a reset wash and spraying it down with iron x. The coating is also approaching two years now.
 
For IronX to adequately decontaminate a coated car at least one of the following must be true:

1. Most of the embedded contamination in a coating is iron.
2. IronX is capable of removing non-iron embedded contaminants.

I'm fairly sure #2 isn't correct. Based on experience I doubt #1 is true, but could be. Also not sure why people think it's a strong degreaser. Not in my experience and not based on the SDS sheet. If tar is a problem you likely want to use TarX, TRIX, Snow Soap, or another stronger cleaner and degreaser.

Snowsoap has a much higher concentration of detergent in it than IronX. TRIX has citrus based cleaners in it, which are good at removing grease and may remove tar.
 
Iron X is an example of a fall out remover. I personally use trix like I said earlier and it's a great fallout remover for anything I encounter on my coated car.
 
WillSports3 said:
I've never had an issue with my car failing the baggie test after a reset wash and spraying it down with iron x. The coating is also approaching two years now.
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2yrs? Your car must live a pampered life, because that's the 1st time I've ever heard anyone say a Coated car is passing a baggie test at 2yrs... As far as IronX, TarX, Trix, or any other X spray helping to remove embedded contaminants and making the surface smooth again, I don't buy it.

Just recently a user by the name of Gaz's Purple [IIRC] posted about trying to use IronX on his truck with a 1yr. old coating and it didn't do a thing to make his paint any smoother and it failed the baggie test very bad.

I've also experienced the same issue many times on customers vehicles and have posted about it. Your cars paint may be smooth thanks to proper maintenance and that's excellent prevention, but IronX does absolutely nothing to help a vehicle that's failing a baggie test. There's no soap or spray that will make that paint smooth again when it's at that point.

RippyD said:
For IronX to adequately decontaminate a coated car at least one of the following must be true:

1. Most of the embedded contamination in a coating is iron.
2. IronX is capable of removing non-iron embedded contaminants.

I'm fairly sure #2 isn't correct. Based on experience I doubt #1 is true, but could be. Also not sure why people think it's a strong degreaser. Not in my experience and not based on the SDS sheet.
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This.^
Thank you.
 
I would "think" that with enough lube a light Nanoskin towel would be ok doing maintenance to your car every 4 monthes without any marring issues...yes or no?

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The difference is my car was well maintained. If a car is horribly maintained then what's on it won't make a difference. My car was coated in may 2016 so it's approaching the 2 year mark in a few months. I wash it once every two weeks minimum or after it rains, and I use trix when needed so I'm not 100% sure why for a lot of people they have such a contamination issue. I get where you're coming from Eldorado, I'm just saying I'm not sure where people have such big issues with contamination on their cars.
 
Klasse Act said:
I would "think" that with enough lube a light Nanoskin towel would be ok doing maintenance to your car every 4 monthes without any marring issues...yes or no?

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Unless your paint is uncommonly soft, there shouldn't be any issues with clay marring whatsoever, even with a Med. Grade Nanoskin. I've gotten to the point where I don't even worry about clay marring.. I think the concern here is whether or not it'll remove the coating.
 
WillSports3 said:
The difference is my car was well maintained.
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Maybe. Try driving in rain for 3 months and tell me how your car does in terms of contamination.

Conversations like this where IronX can decon a coating failing the baggie test is part of the reason I continue to be skeptical about coatings. The hype and marketing seems to be ahead of the reality and logic.
 
I never said it was just iron x, I said specifically that I use trix. Any good fall out removers will work. And after driving in a few months of constant snow and salt, a good bath with reset and ironx snow foam along with trix made it just fine again.

The hype and marketing of any products is beyond reality and logic quite frankly. I've never met a lsp that lasts as long as the claim until I went to coatings. But I'm not a marketing person, I'm stating that in the products I have used, this was my result. A lot of people here don't like Essence but I used that to cut swirls out of a car with a mf pad. I would suggest you dip your hands in a quality coating and then proceed and see if you like the results or not.
 
Got it. Bad assumption on my part. Have gone the coating route. Have Cquartz UK going on a year and working great. Have tried others. My Cquartz needs some clay every few months to keep it hydrophobic. Happy to try Trix every month or two and see how it does after 3-4 months.
 
Snow soap plus trix worth a try ! thanks Will. Your input is appreciated


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I will advocate IronX Snow Soap (IXSS)

I have had great results with PA Cosmic and a monthly wash of IronX snow soap. It has been on the car for 12 months with Cosmic spritz applied every 4.

6oz in the cannon container and 4oz in the bucket with 4 gallons of water. Expensive, but less so than time (time is money) and cost in product to mechanically decontaminate, possible marring risk, light polishing if marred and re-coating.

I foam the car, with a cannon, and let it dwell for 5 min or so while I brush scrub the plastic parts. Then pressure rinse, and Foam again and proceed with a 2 bucket wash, all with IXSS. After I wash a panel and rinse it I re soap the panel. I wear gloves with washing with IXSS and glide my hand over the panel to feel for contamination. The gloves act similar to the baggy test. I know this from doing detail jobs and feel the contaminates through the gloves. I have not felt any contaminates remaining so far. The other weekly wash is with PA Glissante.

We live by Eastman Chemical Corp and I know there is all kinds of junk in the air.

Just my $.02 for what it is worth


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