Using Iron-X in a rinseless wash situation?

I recently did a light detail on my car and tried the Iron-X then ONR sequence because I was delayed and the sun was too hot to do it outside and I regretted it. I applied the Iron-X and let it dwell then attempted to remove it with towels soaked in ONR. The Iron-X and ONR combined into a sudsy mess. I went over the panels with drying towels, but the smell of the Iron-X was still heavy on the car. I ended up doing a second ONR wash to ensure I took off all the Iron-X.
 
I prefer rinseless washes. I use a 2-gallon garden sprayer with ONR made with soft water from my house. So, short version, rinseless wash, Iron-X, rinseless wash. I do about a quarter of the car at a time. I use the garden sprayer as my "hose" to rinse the Iron-X from nooks and crannies. I've had good luck with this approach.

The bigger issue to me is getting the smell out of the cement. First of all, I make sure the cement is wet before the Iron-X step. This is usually taken care of by the first wash. I've done this in my driveway and in my garage (I have a floor drain, or I'd only do it my driveway). Either way, I use brute force, a couple of buckets of Mr. Clean solution, pour it on, sweep it towards the drain/street. Wipes out the smell pretty well. My wife can smell a spoiled banana a block away, so if it's good to go with her, I've succeeded.
 
Just wondering. i have only used an Iron remover once. There's just something in my head about the word's "Iron Remover" that I haven't used it more. And I have 6 bottles sitting on the shelf in the garage. Now after reading this thread and the one Mike linked it from I have to ask, what does the Iron Remover do to something or somewhere that you can't get it all off. Say for example around the door hinges or inside the fender? If you can't flush it good due to the location or because it's a car that you don't want to get completely wet due to it being a collector car and you used a rinseless wash on. Would the Iron Remover sloooooowwwwllllyyyy eat away at any unpainted surface. Like a hinge pin or bolt?

I might be thinking that it's a whole lot more powerful then it is, but being new to using it, I have to ask.

Thanks
 
Just wondering. i have only used an Iron remover once. There's just something in my head about the word's "Iron Remover" that I haven't used it more. And I have 6 bottles sitting on the shelf in the garage. Now after reading this thread and the one Mike linked it from I have to ask, what does the Iron Remover do to something or somewhere that you can't get it all off. Say for example around the door hinges or inside the fender? If you can't flush it good due to the location or because it's a car that you don't want to get completely wet due to it being a collector car and you used a rinseless wash on. Would the Iron Remover sloooooowwwwllllyyyy eat away at any unpainted surface. Like a hinge pin or bolt?

I might be thinking that it's a whole lot more powerful then it is, but being new to using it, I have to ask.

Thanks

I'm not sure, but in the situation of using it with a rinseless wash, I would spray very carefully and not just all over the entire exterior as you would normally do.
 
I'm not sure, but in the situation of using it with a rinseless wash, I would spray very carefully and not just all over the entire exterior as you would normally do.

Good advice. I would say if iron remover gets into a nook by spraying, then you rinse that area, chances are the rinse will get in there too. Also, if iron remover gets somewhere and escapes rinsing, it won't react forever. To oversimplify, once an iron remover reacts with an iron (complex) molecules, it's dead. Once the iron remover molecules are used up, it stops reacting.
 
Out of curiosity, what exactly happens if Iron-X and similar products dry on the paint?
 
Out of curiosity, what exactly happens if Iron-X and similar products dry on the paint?

I have had this happen by trying to treat too many panels at once. I caught it fast and was able to re-wet the area with ONR and wipe it off fairly easily. However, this results in more Iron-X (and smell) getting into your towels, so it's preferable to be able to rinse off the Iron-X. Also, once it dries, it's no longer effective, so another reason to keep it wet.
 
Out of curiosity, what exactly happens if Iron-X and similar products dry on the paint?
I recently saw Yvan, formerly of OPT, purposely let FerreX (opti version of iron remover) dry on the paint.

After it dried, he just took high pressure water to rinse it off.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
I recently saw Yvan, formerly of OPT, purposely let FerreX (opti version of iron remover) dry on the paint.

After it dried, he just took high pressure water to rinse it off.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

OK, so the warning to never let it dry on paint doesn't mean the coming of the apocalypse then.
 
OK, so the warning to never let it dry on paint doesn't mean the coming of the apocalypse then.
Haha. Yeah. I doubt it's THAT serious, but I personally err on the side of caution:)

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Good advice. I would say if iron remover gets into a nook by spraying, then you rinse that area, chances are the rinse will get in there too. Also, if iron remover gets somewhere and escapes rinsing, it won't react forever. To oversimplify, once an iron remover reacts with an iron (complex) molecules, it's dead. Once the iron remover molecules are used up, it stops reacting.

So I guess it's like Peroxide, once it stops bubbling, it's done it's business.......
 
Iron x has the same active chemical (ammonium mercapto acetate) ,which is why it smells so bad; and is the ingredient in hair dye. Another use, but only in an emergency and do not spray directly on plants, but around them , is as a deer repellent if you run out of Deer Repellent spray.( Actually works better )
 
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