very bad marring from nanoskin

asalesagent912

asalesagent912

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Well first thing i want to say is this is not the first time for me using nanoskin.
I have done a good amount of cars with it, some with a little marring and some with none.
I was originally using the 6 inch pad on my DA and the nanoskin glide. Then i decided to get the wash mitt and the bubble bath. So i used it and love how much easier it was to use.
i did 1 or 2 with it with no problem. I recently did this Mercedes Benz with it and was terrified
after seeing what was on the hood when i was done. The thing is i was letting my son use the wash mitt and i was using the 6 in pad but using it in the bucket of bubble bath. and from what i see it wasn't the wash mitt my son was using. it was the 6 inch pad that i was using that did the damage. So im not sure if you are only supposed to use the pad on the DA with the glide or can you use it with the bubble bath too. i figured it was ok because they do sell a hand strap for it.
And just to let you know i was able to use menzerna fg400 and get it all out but i had to do just about the whole car which i was not planing on doin. so end result was i lost money on this job
 
It is my understanding that whenever you intend to use a clay-substitute pad, you should also be planning on doing a full correction step (if not more).
 
I had a promblem with the cloth version type,I won't mention the brand the job was a simple wash and wax on a Mini Cooper it was disastrous when I dried it. I called the manufacturer to complain ,I got some products for free.also I will say is nano cloths are not the same if u see one on sale for 10 bucks,and a brand name is 20 do not buy the cheaper one ,you will pay a hefty price for the destruction,you have caused.
 
asalesagent912 said:
Well first thing i want to say is this is not the first time for me using nanoskin.
I have done a good amount of cars with it, some with a little marring and some with none.
I was originally using the 6 inch pad on my DA and the nanoskin glide. Then i decided to get the wash mitt and the bubble bath. So i used it and love how much easier it was to use.
i did 1 or 2 with it with no problem. I recently did this Mercedes Benz with it and was terrified
after seeing what was on the hood when i was done. The thing is i was letting my son use the wash mitt and i was using the 6 in pad but using it in the bucket of bubble bath. and from what i see it wasn't the wash mitt my son was using. it was the 6 inch pad that i was using that did the damage. So im not sure if you are only supposed to use the pad on the DA with the glide or can you use it with the bubble bath too. i figured it was ok because they do sell a hand strap for it.
And just to let you know i was able to use menzerna fg400 and get it all out but i had to do just about the whole car which i was not planing on doin. so end result was i lost money on this job
Click to expand...

Did you break in the pad on your glass before using it on your paint?
 
The same thing happened to me when using the 6 inch pad on my Model S last year. The pad was broken in on the glass as instructed, and I think it was the Glide. I also had some marring on my car with the wash mitt using Glide as well. After I stopped using Glide, I no longer had the problem. Now, I have noticed some micro-marring with the Nanoskin products (I have the 6 inch, the mitt and the sponge -- all fine grade). None seems to work as well as the speedy prep sponge, which I loved when I used this year.

On the other hand, I just used Bubble Bath and the fine grade wash mitt on my neighbor's car. Her paint was in such bad shape, but I don't think the mitt made it any worse. In fact, it was very smooth after using the mitt and Bubble Bath.

I really think breaking it in is critical.

Also, I did have a problem with the sponge "melting" a little bit when exposed to IronX. Could that have been a problem for you?
 
Rsurfer said:
Did you break in the pad on your glass before using it on your paint?
Click to expand...
yes like i said it was the 6 inch pad that did the damage. i used this pad on alot of cars. the only difference is i was using it with the bubble bath this time. all the other times i used it it was on my flex with nano glide. Maybe its time to replace it. i dont know it looks ok
 
kevincwelch said:
The same thing happened to me when using the 6 inch pad on my Model S last year. The pad was broken in on the glass as instructed, and I think it was the Glide. I also had some marring on my car with the wash mitt using Glide as well. After I stopped using Glide, I no longer had the problem. Now, I have noticed some micro-marring with the Nanoskin products (I have the 6 inch, the mitt and the sponge -- all fine grade). None seems to work as well as the speedy prep sponge, which I loved when I used this year.

On the other hand, I just used Bubble Bath and the fine grade wash mitt on my neighbor's car. Her paint was in such bad shape, but I don't think the mitt made it any worse. In fact, it was very smooth after using the mitt and Bubble Bath.

I really think breaking it in is critical.

Also, I did have a problem with the sponge "melting" a little bit when exposed to IronX. Could that have been a problem for you?
Click to expand...
I did't use iron x. the temp was a little warm and sun was out. dont know if that could have an effect.
 
Nano skins will always marr.
Paint correction or just using a cleaner wax on a machine is needed 99% of the time.
Your mess is an extreme case and you did something wrong so try to figure that out.
As far as replacing them my wash mitt is about 4 years old and has done about 1,000 vehicles and I don't plan on replacing it anytime soon.

Just learn how to use it - it has saved me thousands of hours of decontamination after I wash because I use it as I wash then I can get onto the fun of correcting paint.
 
You could try cleaning it. I like to clean my OTC surface prep mitt after every job. As I like to state; I'm not sure if this is recommended, but I clean mine by drizzling blue dawn on it and scrub it lightly with a nail brush and warm water. I also like to agitate it against the grit guard in my wash/lube bucket during use. Wash bucket normally has either Meg's Gold Class or ONR at rinse less ratio. No issues with marring and I use little to no pressure on it during use.

If clay alternatives are any thing like traditional clay, they pick up and hold on to contaminates. They are not self cleaning and they are not getting folded over to expose a fresh surface.

Just my opinion and process.
 
I just did my black 150 with the fine wash mitt and onr at clay lube ratio I didn't see any marring I still followed up with Wolfgang finishing glaze.
 
Detailing by M said:
Nano skins will always marr.
Paint correction or just using a cleaner wax on a machine is needed 99% of the time.
Your mess is an extreme case and you did something wrong so try to figure that out.
As far as replacing them my wash mitt is about 4 years old and has done about 1,000 vehicles and I don't plan on replacing it anytime soon.

Just learn how to use it - it has saved me thousands of hours of decontamination after I wash because I use it as I wash then I can get onto the fun of correcting paint.
Click to expand...
When you say "Nano skins will always marr", do you mean when using a machine, or also by hand?
I plan on claying/Nanoing next spring, it will be my first time, and now I'm getting worried. When you say "then I can get onto the fun of correcting paint", is that an extra step because of marring? I want to just wash, decontaminate, AIO, and wax. That's a full weekend of work for me. TIA
 
SameGuy said:
It is my understanding that whenever you intend to use a clay-substitute pad, you should also be planning on doing a full correction step (if not more).
Click to expand...


That might be over doing it, depends on the paint.

My general rule of thumb is if I'm going to do any type of mechanical decontamination, that would including claying or using any Nanoskin products etc. then I'm already planning on doing at least one machine polishing step. This could include one machine applied cleaner/wax as the abrasives in the cleaner/wax would be taking the place of the abrasives in a polish.


:)
 
Just to note....

Marring or no marring, from anything all has to do with a number of factors, things like your technique, the lube you use ect.

There's one factor you cannot control and that is paint hardness or paint softness.

Bee telling guys this for years now when it comes to using only a rotary buffer and same thing applies here, sometimes it's not about you and how good you are at this craft... it's about the paint.

Some paints polish better than others. Some paints scratch if you look at them the wrong way.

If in doubt, or to take an extra step of caution, do a test spot.

One of the cars I recently worked on, a black 1969 Corvette had different paint on it, that is the hood was painted by one body shop. The back was painted by another body shop, the doors and front clip by yet another body shop. All this was done as needed over decades.

Before rubbing anything over the entire car do some testing to some smaller sections and then inspect.


:)
 
I will stick to clay if it gets dirty just refold or throw it away if it's bad.the cloth version can pickup a little grit then traps it between cloth and paint.Its imperative to wash car really good especially the bottom then use cloth from top to bottom . My friend and I knocked out a cts v in black car had a 1000 miles on it ,it was a two step correction with c Quartz finest,my friend who been detailing forever took the nano cloth out of a bucket of fresh water and induced so much marring . Even with light pressure a lot of lube gonna get some scratches no matter how careful u are .The nano skin disc pads are awesome soft the cons if you're mobile in hot weather the pad will gum up if you don't saturate the paint while cleaning the paint with the nano disc also keep it at a low speed on you're da.
 
parshooter said:
When you say "Nano skins will always marr", do you mean when using a machine, or also by hand?
I plan on claying/Nanoing next spring, it will be my first time, and now I'm getting worried. When you say "then I can get onto the fun of correcting paint", is that an extra step because of marring? I want to just wash, decontaminate, AIO, and wax. That's a full weekend of work for me. TIA
Click to expand...

When I chose to use a Nano skin the car is already hammered by aggressive washing, bad detail and the like so any marring I do is negligent to what is already on the paint.

99% of my details include polishing. Very rarely do I not use a machine on a detail.

If I'm only going to a "hand wax" or no paint correction then I would use clay, gently.

Paint Correction = Fun

I am a paint correction specialist not a car washer so getting to the paint correction quicker is my goal.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Just to note....

Marring or no marring, from anything all has to do with a number of factors, things like your technique, the lube you use ect.

There's one factor you cannot control and that is paint hardness or paint softness.

Bee telling guys this for years now when it comes to using only a rotary buffer and same thing applies here, sometimes it's not about you and how good you are at this craft... it's about the paint.

Some paints polish better than others. Some paints scratch if you look at them the wrong way.

If in doubt, or to take an extra step of caution, do a test spot.

One of the cars I recently worked on, a black 1969 Corvette had different paint on it, that is the hood was painted by one body shop. The back was painted by another body shop, the doors and front clip by yet another body shop. All this was done as needed over decades.

Before rubbing anything over the entire car do some testing to some smaller sections and then inspect.


:)
Click to expand...
this is one thing i was wondering about. The owner told me he had the hood painted and that was one of the parts that got badly marred. but i did notice i did one side with the DA pad and my son did the other side with the wash mitt and the side i did with the DA pad is the side that was badly marred. So im wondering if the DA pad should just be used on the DA with the glide as lube instead of using it with the bubble bath. or could it have just been the painted hood that marred easily.
 
7.3powerstroke said:
Op, did you try anything less agressive than FG 400 to get rid of the marring?
Click to expand...
no i was so scared after seeing it i just went right for the fg400.
I wish i took pics but i can tell you after i used the fg400 it was like new again. love that stuff.lol
 
Hey, you learn from your mistakes!

now you know not to go too nuts with that thing!

next time do a test spot, and never use that unless your going to do some kind of polishing, as no matter what hard soft, its going to leave some kind of damage, light, or heavy.

maybe you used to high of a speed as well?

i dont know what speed you used as i did not read the whole thread.
 
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