Volvo-white single stage paint

TMQ

TMQ

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Did not take before pictures showing how dull, dirty and chalky the paint was.

Told the owner to wash it with comet and bring to me. That’s why wasn’t able to get a before shot.

I did a look over and decided it needed one more wash with comet and dried.

Brought it inside after two washes with comet.

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Washed with comet 2 times.

Testing with Blackfire one step with Rupes white pad—meh.

Like trying to polish a washing machine-the paint was very very hard!

Tried Rupes UHS/Gray UHS pads—cleaned paint well and made it smoother but it a left greasy residue.

Followed up with HD Speed/Rupes yellow pad-bingo! Removed the oily residue from UHS and made paint slick!

Did only the hood and trunk with UHS/speed combo.

Took too much time, work and materials/pads to do the UHS/speed combo.

Roof, sides of car just in Speed. Looks just as good but didn’t quite have the slick feel. But this is a quickie job and not much $$.

Sealed the paint with BlackFire Sealant.

Perrrrfect!

I’m happy how it all turned out!

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Interesting combo to get it polished Tom. :xyxthumbs:



For everyone reading this into the future - the hardest automotive paints tend to be single stage white paints and that is because the pigment used to make white paint white is very hard thus it makes the resin or the entire matrix of paint very hard.

Titanium Oxide is the pigment used to make white paint white.


:)
 
Thanks Mike...

I was thinking of you while polishing this "hard" paint. Recalled you saying something about certain pigments in white paint, couldn't remember.

Thanks for the info above!

Hummm..."Titanium Oxide"...

Tom
 
Nice work Tom looks real good. Tom "Told the owner to wash it with comet and bring to me." What is the reason for the Comet? This is the first I've heard of this.
 
The comet trick is an oldie. Use to clean cars way back before clear coats were available.

Use comet to remove heavy oxidation before polishing.

Otherwise product and pads will be loaded up with old paint rendering polishing process useless...

Tom
 
Mike actually has an article about using comet---thats where I got the info from.

I'll see if I can find the article.

Tom
 
Tom thank you very much for your quick response and bringing this to my attention. I will keep this info'. Thanks Again!

Tom
 
Looks great! Nice job and Mike shared a bit of info on white that I wasn't aware of. :xyxthumbs:
 
In summary there are 2 ways to do the single stage paint as far as I know:

1. Gorge paint with Meg # 7. Apply, let sit over night and remove. Do this 4 times or so. Then polish and wax

or

2. Cut oxidation with comet. Polish the paint. Then apply #7 one time and let sit over night and remove. Then apply wax.

Tom

Both of these concepts I got from Mike Phillips.
 
With this project---I skipped the # 7. Thought the paint looks and feels very substantial. And time was short.

Cut with comet, polished with HD Speed and sealed with BlackFire Sealant.

Tom
 
Awesome work and write up and pictures Tom!

As a swede I see a lot of Volvos. The older ones is always oxidized to some levels. We have a product based on porslin clay and some synthetic wax. This is the go to when you revive these SS paints when it's heavly oxidized. Sadly that Meguiars don't offer #7 here in Sweden. Would like to try it out some time. Have a friend of mine that has a Chevrolet Caprice 70' that maybe can be revived with the #7. But the pigment is very faded so don't know if it's able to do it.

I wondering if Meguiars D301 would work on oxidized SS paint. IIRC it's based on porslin clay too. The product we use is also based on naptha and a kind of petroleum. That cleans the SS paints very well and many uses it on boats gelcoat too. It's extremly effective on the oxidized parts and is like an AIO with medium cut polish aggressiveness from it. Don't think I have seen it in the US. It's an UK brand that sells mostly to high volume detailshops and bodyshop and also dealerships here in Sweden.
 
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