Just wanted some Advise on why I'm not getting results on my car it's a white vw golf gti mkv. Been putting off detailing it as my house has been chewing up most of my time. But today I want to get some cleaning and detailing going and I just couldn't get the best results. Started with orange pad with menzerna power gloss on a fast speed multiple passes and was still left with plenty of swirls then went to a menzerna super finish with white pad and still was left with swirl marks. Many passes and attempts. Then I tried my partners car and it worked fine nice finish.... can someone give me some advise????? It was in the sun but not super hot day....
Vw golf gti paint correction not really correcting
- Thread starter costo
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emmjay
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- Feb 2, 2015
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The VW gti, especially white has very hard paint. You definitely need something like Microfiber pads(rupes) or Wool (flex) and a good compound for your first step.
Have a look at Lawrence's thread below to give you an idea of what it takes to correct this paint and how hard it is :
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...candy-white-golf-6-gti-detailed-lawrence.html
Good luck!
Have a look at Lawrence's thread below to give you an idea of what it takes to correct this paint and how hard it is :
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...candy-white-golf-6-gti-detailed-lawrence.html
Good luck!
I dont think theres harder paint on the planet then VW's white. I work on tons of stupidly hard German paints like Bmw, Mercedes, Audi etc. The only paint that gave my PE-14 a hard time was VW white, the polisher switched off and went into heat protection mode. I think VW mixes concrete in that paint. You use FG400 as a finishing polish on there lol.
lawrenceSA
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- Feb 7, 2012
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Silly question but are you sure its not repainted at all?
Do you have a PTG and if so, have you measured the paint thickness?
What machine are you using?
You mention Power Gloss as the polish - are you talking about PG1000 - if so, I haven't used it but from what I understand its more of a 'rock in the bottle type compound' - perhaps this has something to do with the unsatisfactory cutting results....?
I have always found FG400 to be a good starting point for VW paint in need of decent correction... and unfortunately as already mentioned, sometimes the harder paint means that even this isn't enough to get rid of all the damage - but it should give you much better results that PG1000.
You can also look at increasing the aggressiveness of the pad you are using - microfiber or wool may be needed for the initial cut...
How big is the area you are working - remember by reducing your working area, you essentially increase the cut
Likewise, slowing down your arm movement will also help.
Menzerna polishes generally need around 8 decent section passes to allow the abrasives sufficient time to break down...
Sometimes slowing down (arm speed, reducing working area etc) actually makes the overall job go quicker.
Here are some links to a few more Candy White VW's I have done (there are plenty more).... maybe by reading through and seeing the approach it may offer some help?
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/70957-candy-white-golf-5gti-detailed-lawrence.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/70324-candy-white-golf-r-detailed-lawrence.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/75585-candy-white-golf-6gti-detailed-lawrence.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-candy-white-golf-5gti-detailed-lawrence.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-golf-6gti-another-one-detailed-lawrence.html
Lastly, I know it may not be possible, but working out in the sun is never going to help your cause....
Do you have a PTG and if so, have you measured the paint thickness?
What machine are you using?
You mention Power Gloss as the polish - are you talking about PG1000 - if so, I haven't used it but from what I understand its more of a 'rock in the bottle type compound' - perhaps this has something to do with the unsatisfactory cutting results....?
I have always found FG400 to be a good starting point for VW paint in need of decent correction... and unfortunately as already mentioned, sometimes the harder paint means that even this isn't enough to get rid of all the damage - but it should give you much better results that PG1000.
You can also look at increasing the aggressiveness of the pad you are using - microfiber or wool may be needed for the initial cut...
How big is the area you are working - remember by reducing your working area, you essentially increase the cut
Likewise, slowing down your arm movement will also help.
Menzerna polishes generally need around 8 decent section passes to allow the abrasives sufficient time to break down...
Sometimes slowing down (arm speed, reducing working area etc) actually makes the overall job go quicker.
Here are some links to a few more Candy White VW's I have done (there are plenty more).... maybe by reading through and seeing the approach it may offer some help?
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/70957-candy-white-golf-5gti-detailed-lawrence.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/70324-candy-white-golf-r-detailed-lawrence.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/75585-candy-white-golf-6gti-detailed-lawrence.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-candy-white-golf-5gti-detailed-lawrence.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-golf-6gti-another-one-detailed-lawrence.html
Lastly, I know it may not be possible, but working out in the sun is never going to help your cause....
- Thread starter
- #5
Got a da polisher sorry not sure on brand but got it off here a few years back. The power gloss I think is now pg1000 and the sf4000 is the super finish. Ok so maybe need another pad to enhance the cut. And from think links he was using the fg500. Sucks as it seems like it's going to take a long time to get to get it a little better.
No I don't think the car has been resprayed
Area I'm working is about 30cm x 60cm trying to get a good idea of working time in that area
No ptg
I have reasonable idea of time and passes, all things I have factored in when I was working.
Lawrence u look like a master with the polisher. What pads would u recommend with the fg500? Also were u able to correct on just one pass??? Then a finishing compound?
also what would u recommend on bringing the cloth seats back to life????
No I don't think the car has been resprayed
Area I'm working is about 30cm x 60cm trying to get a good idea of working time in that area
No ptg
I have reasonable idea of time and passes, all things I have factored in when I was working.
Lawrence u look like a master with the polisher. What pads would u recommend with the fg500? Also were u able to correct on just one pass??? Then a finishing compound?
also what would u recommend on bringing the cloth seats back to life????
lawrenceSA
New member
- Feb 7, 2012
- 1,713
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I think using a non-forced rotation DA (assuming this is what it is) the following are going to help:
1. Change from PG1000 to FG400 (or FG500 - think its the same stuff just labeled differently).
2. MF cutting pads instead of the foam pads you are using to add more cut - foamed wool may be an option?
3. Use a really slow arm speed on a smaller working area.
4. 8 passes per section
5. You *may* need to cut twice, depending on how deep the damage is - gosh on the last one I did I cut twice with SHC300/wool (more aggressive than FG400)
6. You should find that SF4000 paired with a white pad (or possibly even a black pad) will be enough to pull out any hazing from the initial cutting step(s)
Best tip I can give you is dial in a combo that works on your test spot(s) first, before polishing out the whole car only to be disappointed with your results.... get 1 spot working, then just replicate the process over the rest of the car.
As for the cloth interior, I'll be honest and say that cloth interiors aren't really my strong point - I typically don't do a lot of them and guess to really do a proper job at it, a extractor or steamer would be needed. I've had decent enough success though by brush/vacuum/work cleaner on MF into seat/brush/vacuum... using Mothers Upholstery Cleaner but like I said, that kind of work is very limited for me... I'm sure you'll get much more useful info from the other members here who specialize in that sort of thing.
1. Change from PG1000 to FG400 (or FG500 - think its the same stuff just labeled differently).
2. MF cutting pads instead of the foam pads you are using to add more cut - foamed wool may be an option?
3. Use a really slow arm speed on a smaller working area.
4. 8 passes per section
5. You *may* need to cut twice, depending on how deep the damage is - gosh on the last one I did I cut twice with SHC300/wool (more aggressive than FG400)
6. You should find that SF4000 paired with a white pad (or possibly even a black pad) will be enough to pull out any hazing from the initial cutting step(s)
Best tip I can give you is dial in a combo that works on your test spot(s) first, before polishing out the whole car only to be disappointed with your results.... get 1 spot working, then just replicate the process over the rest of the car.
As for the cloth interior, I'll be honest and say that cloth interiors aren't really my strong point - I typically don't do a lot of them and guess to really do a proper job at it, a extractor or steamer would be needed. I've had decent enough success though by brush/vacuum/work cleaner on MF into seat/brush/vacuum... using Mothers Upholstery Cleaner but like I said, that kind of work is very limited for me... I'm sure you'll get much more useful info from the other members here who specialize in that sort of thing.
lawrenceSA
New member
- Feb 7, 2012
- 1,713
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Also just thought about something.... how many pads are you using to correct the car.... if not sufficient, you may find that pad saturation is occurring reducing the effectiveness of your cutting combo...
Mike Phillips has a great article worth reading on the subject...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-how-many-pads-do-i-need-buff-out-my-car.html
Mike Phillips has a great article worth reading on the subject...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-how-many-pads-do-i-need-buff-out-my-car.html
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
- Aug 31, 2010
- 16,872
- 1,192
Is this a single-stage white? If so I guess it's that titanium dioxide thing.
Jay's 128i
New member
- Sep 8, 2011
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lawrenceSA is spot on!!! I have an MK7 GTI-Pure white! I thought my wife's black GTI was difficult until I decided to do mine. Microfiber extra cut pads work amazing with FG400. Super Slooooooooow arm speed is required. But, once you have it cleaned up, it is a breeze to maintain!!
Its actually clear coat, the culprit colours are Candy White and Pure White. Mild swirling is okay, anything more and you need Wool/MF/Stiff Foam and SHC300 or M101, no other compounds will tickle it.
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks guys. Yea I have not done the entire car it's only been a patch to try to get results. I used only one pad as I was only working one section. I will get a few mf pads and the fg500. Will the sf 4000 be ok with a foam pad? Or something a little harder? Once again anyone got any suggestions on cloth seats? I have not done a decontamination, but just a clay as well..Will any mf pad work? Any preferences ?