Water Spot/Acid Rain

BIGJAYREE

BIGJAYREE

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Hey guys new to the site.I have a 2006 Charger Daytona in the GO-MANGO Orange color.I have water spots and what I have been told some acid rain spots.What product do you recomend and orbital buffer.I have tried Meguires compound by hand but can't get it all off.Plus I have factory decals that some compounds and wax will ruin if not careful.Do several car shows with car club but it's embarassing to have those spots.Thanks for any help.
 
i recommend the pc7424xp . as far as products. id try #205 see if that will get the spots out its a very light abrasive polish if that done work id step up to like swirlx.. if that dont work u may need a compound. so id pick up a bottle of #105 to be safe. but 205 should do the trick for water spots . hope this helps! oh and id get 5'5 flat foam pads for the pc Lake county :)
 
Mentalm said:
i recommend the pc7424xp . as far as products. id try #205 see if that will get the spots out its a very light abrasive polish if that done work id step up to like swirlx.. if that dont work u may need a compound. so id pick up a bottle of #105 to be safe. but 205 should do the trick for water spots . hope this helps! oh and id get 5'5 flat foam pads for the pc Lake county :)
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Thanks for the information!
 
I would recommend you try vinegar first, if that does not work a dedicated water spot remover. Then a clay bar. If none of those work, think about using a polish/compound.
 
I have tried vinegar with no luck and have used clay bar.Paint has great shine but when you get close you see the spots.One detailer here local wants $250 to repair it.I haven't gave up yet to do it myself.Is there a trick to this without hurting my decals? Maybe tape them off when I start this project?Thanks yakky
 
This is one of the most common problems and thus questions... how to remove water spots.

Years ago I created 2 categories because there were no categories and I found I couldn't help people remove the water spots until "we" both knew what type they were because the removal process is different.

It sounds like you have Type II Water Spots which are etchings or craters in the clear layer of paint. If this is true then the only way to remove them is to abrade the paint till it's uniformly level again.

You'll need a DA Polisher at a minimum and a Flex 3401 or rotary in worst case scenarios.

I have a number of articles on this topic, check them out...



Water Spots

New - 3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III

How To Remove Sprinkler Water Spots

How to remove water spots by hand

Tips for removing Type I Water Spots



The last one also covers Vinegar...


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
If that quote is just to polish the horizontal surfaces, no vertical panels then that might be a good deal. If that's for the entire car I would be wary they're either charging too little or don't know what they're getting into.

:)
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Lol or he lives in a small town like me and when I mention 250, peoples eyes roll outta their heads and they say bubba can repaint the whole car for 250 lol
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Good point.

I just want the OP to be wary of hiring someone to remove the water spots only to then be left with swirls in the paint.


:)
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True, I try to explain the benefits of having someone that knows what they are doing versus paying less the first time, having some damage their cc, then having to pay someone to fix it only to remove even more cc! The best advice I can recommend is ask the detailer what his approach/product is going to be, and if it sounds like he's going to take the least aggressive method first and move up from there then I'd say go for it. Or spend 250 and do it yourself :)
 
Thanks again guys,After looking at the links I can say that I have type II spots.It looks just like what I have.Now this detailer stated that he would be using a sort of acid cleaner that took alot of time because once it was applied there was a small waiting period before he removed it,and would take longer to work around my factory decals.Also I'm new to the products and terms here...like a flex3401 or a rotary,and what brand compound or cleaner do you recomend?I've worked on cars and washed and cleaned them for years but never gotten into cc and compounds.But I am confident I can handle this with the right direction. Thanks Mike and Perfections I can't believe the response I have gotten with one thread....Thanks
 
BIGJAYREE said:
Thanks again guys,After looking at the links I can say that I have type II spots.It looks just like what I have.Now this detailer stated that he would be using a sort of acid cleaner that took alot of time because once it was applied there was a small waiting period before he removed it,and would take longer to work around my factory decals.Also I'm new to the products and terms here...like a flex3401 or a rotary,and what brand compound or cleaner do you recomend?I've worked on cars and washed and cleaned them for years but never gotten into cc and compounds.But I am confident I can handle this with the right direction. Thanks Mike and Perfections I can't believe the response I have gotten with one thread....Thanks
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The easiest approach I've found for newer user's is using these products to remove Type II etched water spots, and the tape to protect your graphics/decals.

Griot's Garage 6 inch Random Orbital Polisher, Dual action buffer, DA polisher

Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System 5 Inch Starter Kit, paint correction kit, dual action polishing kit

Meguiars Professional Masking Tape, auto masking tape, car masking tape, detailing tape

And a great towel on bogo.
The Cobra Miracle Towel is a 75/25 blend of imported microfiber. Its one of our softest detailing towels!
 
Wow looks great! So is KAIO the way to go for my type II spots?
 
To correct water spots to perfection that have etched the cc, it will have to be leveled, a chemical cleaner will remove the deposits which will make the cc appear as if you removed the etching but at the right angles with correct lighting you will be able to see the depression in the cc if it's severe enough. You have to keep in mind a dense/hard cc such as the corvette is harder to etch then a medium density cc like your dodge, but the cleaner is the least aggressive method and would be a good idea to try first, but after you mentioned you had tried the compound by hand and didnt get the results you wanted is the reason I recommended the products I did. Maybe Mike will chime in for an education :)
 
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