I have an vintage car with a single stage paint job. It was last repainted probably about 20 years ago with a single stage paint.
Just out of curiosity, what kind of car? I'm not sure what a 1972 Ford
GTS is? So I'm guessing something else?
I recently washed the car and afterwards I had a ton of hard water spots on the paint from where the sun dried the car before I could chamois it dry.
That water issue is a
text book example of what I wrote in my how-to book on page 34. On page 34 I describe
Type III Water Spots, what type of paint they happen to and how to remove them.
I tried using a clay bar, a cleaner wax and a buffer with some Meg Ultimate Compound. But nothing seems to have worked.
I am thinking the Ultimate compound is not very abrasive as there seems to be very little paint transfer when I am working in the paint. I am a relative amateur compare to people here when it comes to auto detailing, so I really don't no what the best option is to try to restore this paint. Does anyone have any advice?
Ultimate Compound is a
SMAT product, that is
Super Micro Abrasive Technology. If you feel some between your fingers it will feel like a
skin lotion,
not rocks in a bottle. It is aggressive but it is also
pad dependent for aggressive cutting or light cutting.
What did you apply it with?
I worked at it more today and I think I got some success. Originally I only tried to clay a small area and it didn't seem to do much so I didn't do the problem areas (hood, roof, trunk) as I had recently clayed the car.
Claying removes
TOPICAL defects like overspray. It will have ZERO effect on
SUB-SURFACE or
below surface defects like water spots that have penetrated
INTO the paint which is a Type III Water Spot and what you have.
I did the car today and it seemed to help reduce the spots (or at least the new ones) quite a bit.
When you say you
did the car today and it helped reduce the spots....
Do you mean you clayed the car again?
Or do you mean you rubbed Ultimate Compound on the car again?
I came across the article on restoring single stage paints on this website and the suggestion was to use Meguiar's #7 and do the 12-24 hour soak. Would this be a good idea for my paint? I am not opposed to working it by hand vigorously over using the machine.
That would be my article. I find it interesting that it's heading to a
half a million views while most people own cars with clearcoats. To me this shows a
LOT of interest in old single stage paints.
For those reading this thread into the future, here's the mentioned article,
The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Type III Water Spots are tough to remove only because the way to remove them is to abrade i.e. compound the paint. And of course, you have a limited amount of paint before you hit primer.
The #7 contains a unique oil that brings out the
full richness of color in pigmented single stage paints. It's the only product I know that offers this unique ability and the only product I know of that was introduced at the time car paint was INVENTED and is still around today.
Working #7 into the affected areas of paint would be in my opinion a good idea. It will help. Compounding however is also needed because the red pigments in the paint have been stained white. Since you say you've removed them to some level, (I don't know if you removed them via clay or compound as I didn't understand what you wrote above), I would get some #7 and start rubbing it in first as this will gorge the paint with the unique TS Oils. The gently and methodically compound the area with the Ultimate Compound and either a foam cutting or foam polishing pad or by hand with a microfiber applicator pad.
The key to success here without making a mistake is taking your time.
