Water Spots won't go away. Ideas?

bonsaiguitar

bonsaiguitar

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I bought the yellow cutting pads and tried what another member on here tried but the spots won't budge. I used Megs #9 with the pads and it didn't even phase them.

Is there anything that will remove these spots? Megs #9 never failed me until now.
 
bonsaiguitar said:
I bought the yellow cutting pads and tried what another member on here tried but the spots won't budge. I used Megs #9 with the pads and it didn't even phase them.

Is there anything that will remove these spots? Megs #9 never failed me until now.
Click to expand...

saw this posted on another forum. I've never used it but it may be worth a shot.

"...Living here in Hawaii cars get water spots pretty bad. I found this product, MX-7 and it goes on easy, I let it dry, then used a buffer (because its easier, but not needed). I couldn't believe the spots actually came off my wifes car. It felt like I used a clay bar, smooth. And it smells good too , like flouride?
Anyways, here it is at a local store that sells it."
http://tnttinting.com/taxonomy/term/10
 
I had some baked on water spots on my windows and some Klasse AIO took care of it. Even though it's a liitle different, it's worth a shot. I believe clay and a vinegar/water mix are also recommended.
 
I don't know if the Klasse would be much better than the Megs #9 for this. I can't find the MX-7 online anywhere other than other auto forums. Sounds like it works though.

I'll try vinegar tomorrow. Works for the coffee pot.
 
vinegar and AIO likely only work on relatively new spots. Once they have etched the clearcoat you will need to polish or wet-sand them out. No easy way for removal.
 
Anybody try the Meg #47? I see AG has it.

I'm going out to try some vinegar tonight.
 
Vinegar and 000 steel whool seems to be working but at this rate it will take about 30 hours.

I once took a truck I had to a detail shop and the guy applied a liquid with rubber gloves on and it cleaned them almost immediatly. Probably some kind of acid that would ruin my paint I'm sure.
 
It depends...

If they have been there long enough, chances are that they have soaked into the base coat, therefore they WILL NOT come out.

If they are on the curface, CLR on a MF works so I hear.

Or just try another compound, I recommend SSR3 for the PC.
 
CLR on MF? They've been on there at least 5 years. I bought the car used from Charleston SC on the coast.

I think shes a keeper.
evoke3.JPG
 
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AIO and #4 steel wool, I couldn't get anything else to work on any of our vehicles including a newer Lexus, and beleive me, you should see all the "glass" stuff I bought including what some industrial companies use. That's really your only choice on glass besides replacing the glass itself.
 
if you live in MA, a hammer is the ans =p all car insurance co are required to cover all glass with no deductable. need a new windshield? just put a big hole in it (disclaimer: dont do this as it is insurance fraud[at least i think])
 
first things first....get suspension and then try the yellow pad and xmt3 or ssr 3
 
I know its controversial, but you may want to try a little diluted CLR.

Disclaimer: I haven't tried this myself but others at... other detailing boards... recommend it

CLR is non-acidic as far as I can tell (its no Lime-A-Way), and doesn't have a powerful scent, however it is "slippery," so I'm not sure what that says as far as what chemicals are in it. It'd probably be more helpful to check out the MSDS, although I'm not sure how many of us can interpret it.
 
Surfer said:
AIO and #4 steel wool, I couldn't get anything else to work on any of our vehicles including a newer Lexus, and beleive me, you should see all the "glass" stuff I bought including what some industrial companies use. That's really your only choice on glass besides replacing the glass itself.
Click to expand...

surfer, #4 steel wool - how do you know that it is #4? I guess brillo is unacceptable? (My son is battling the same issue.):confused:
thanks,
lauren:)
 
teeks said:
if you live in MA, a hammer is the ans =p all car insurance co are required to cover all glass with no deductable. need a new windshield? just put a big hole in it (disclaimer: dont do this as it is insurance fraud[at least i think])
Click to expand...

yes, i am sure it is!!! lol
 
Surfer said:
AIO and #4 steel wool, I couldn't get anything else to work on any of our vehicles including a newer Lexus, and beleive me, you should see all the "glass" stuff I bought including what some industrial companies use. That's really your only choice on glass besides replacing the glass itself.
Click to expand...
:iagree: I even used #000 and #00 with AIO on glass.
 
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