Wax and Sealant Combination
- Thread starter chu
- Start date
ryandamartini
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- Sep 22, 2006
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White: Duragloss 105 toped with aquawax.
Silver: Duragloss 105 toped with AW
Blue: Duragloss 105 toped with AW
Amazing product, amazing pricepoint, amazing results.
-Ryan
Silver: Duragloss 105 toped with AW
Blue: Duragloss 105 toped with AW
Amazing product, amazing pricepoint, amazing results.
-Ryan
I've done several white & silver cars with the Duragloss products and they turn out absolutely stunning. I feel the beauty, wetness, slickness & protection from these products is right up there with the best of any comparable botique product. Here's a brief summary of the steps & products I've used for freshly polished painted exteriors...
1) Wash with Duragloss 901 car wash using a sheepskin mitt (or Schmitt
). Use the two bucket method with grit guards in the buckets. Always wash in the shade. Dry with your favorite Autgeek Microfiber towels.
2) Clay the surfaces with your favorite mild clay. The clay removes bonded surface contaminants that washing doesn't remove and leaves a much nicer / smoother surface. Always use plenty of lube with the clay so you don't scratch the surface.
3) Apply Duragloss PBA 601 (Pre-Bonding Agent) to entire car and let it haze. Do NOT wipe off the PBA, but make sure it has hazed.
4) Apply Duragloss TPP 105 Total Performance Polish / Sealant) over the PBA. Remove the TPP with a clean MF when its dry per their instructions.
5) After 12+ hours (time needed for the polymers to setup), apply another layer of Duragloss TPP 105 and remove with MF when dry.
6) After 12+ hours, apply a layer of Duragloss 951 Aquawax. It's a simple wipe on wipe off product, so this step goes very fast.
7) After 12+ hours, apply some Duragloss FC 921 (Fast Clean & Shine) with a clean microfiber towel. The FC 921 will add antistatic properties to the surface to minimize the attraction of dust, etc, and it adds a little bit of slickness and more beauty to the finish. This will keep your car looking nice for a long time and will easily give you 6+ months of protection.
For maintenance, wash your car every two weeks or month, etc with Duragloss 901 car wash. Apply a thin coat of Duragloss 951 Aquawax every month or two after washing . You can even use the Aquawax while the car is still damp. This will boost the protection even further and assure excellent uv protection, etc. After every wash, apply the FC 921 for added beauty, slickness and antistatic properties.
We live in an equestrian community with horse trails throughout our neighboods. We also have an arena on our main property and there's always dust in the air from the horses being worked, ridden, etc. Some of our vehicles are kept outside and keeping them clean has been a daunting task. I've definitely noticed these vehicles staying cleaner for longer periods of time and with less dust accumulation after using the Duragloss FC 921.
1) Wash with Duragloss 901 car wash using a sheepskin mitt (or Schmitt
). Use the two bucket method with grit guards in the buckets. Always wash in the shade. Dry with your favorite Autgeek Microfiber towels.2) Clay the surfaces with your favorite mild clay. The clay removes bonded surface contaminants that washing doesn't remove and leaves a much nicer / smoother surface. Always use plenty of lube with the clay so you don't scratch the surface.
3) Apply Duragloss PBA 601 (Pre-Bonding Agent) to entire car and let it haze. Do NOT wipe off the PBA, but make sure it has hazed.
4) Apply Duragloss TPP 105 Total Performance Polish / Sealant) over the PBA. Remove the TPP with a clean MF when its dry per their instructions.
5) After 12+ hours (time needed for the polymers to setup), apply another layer of Duragloss TPP 105 and remove with MF when dry.
6) After 12+ hours, apply a layer of Duragloss 951 Aquawax. It's a simple wipe on wipe off product, so this step goes very fast.
7) After 12+ hours, apply some Duragloss FC 921 (Fast Clean & Shine) with a clean microfiber towel. The FC 921 will add antistatic properties to the surface to minimize the attraction of dust, etc, and it adds a little bit of slickness and more beauty to the finish. This will keep your car looking nice for a long time and will easily give you 6+ months of protection.
For maintenance, wash your car every two weeks or month, etc with Duragloss 901 car wash. Apply a thin coat of Duragloss 951 Aquawax every month or two after washing . You can even use the Aquawax while the car is still damp. This will boost the protection even further and assure excellent uv protection, etc. After every wash, apply the FC 921 for added beauty, slickness and antistatic properties.
We live in an equestrian community with horse trails throughout our neighboods. We also have an arena on our main property and there's always dust in the air from the horses being worked, ridden, etc. Some of our vehicles are kept outside and keeping them clean has been a daunting task. I've definitely noticed these vehicles staying cleaner for longer periods of time and with less dust accumulation after using the Duragloss FC 921.
Last edited:
justin_murphy
New member
- May 7, 2006
- 2,852
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Nica said:
You ain't kidding!
Very informative to me. I learned alot.
"Sticky" worth in my honest opinion
(I'm trying not to use any acronyms from now own!)
Al-53
New member
- Mar 4, 2006
- 1,710
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601 does not get wiped off
qadsan..a correction to your process..the 601 is to stay on the paint..do not buff it off..then you apply the 105 or 111 over the 601 that has hazed..
Al
qadsan said:I've done several white & silver cars with the Duragloss products and they turn out absolutely stunning. I feel the beauty, wetness, slickness & protection from these products is right up there with the best of any comparable botique product. Here's a brief summary of the steps & products I've used for freshly polished painted exteriors...
1) Wash with Duragloss 901 car wash using a sheepskin mitt (or Schmitt
2) Clay the surfaces with your favorite mild clay. The clay removes bonded surface contaminants that washing doesn't remove and leaves a much nicer / smoother surface. Always use plenty of lube with the clay so you don't scratch the surface.
3) Apply Duragloss PBA 601 (Pre-Bonding Agent) to entire car and let it haze. Then wipe off with a clean microfiber towel.the 601 stays on the paint..not to be wiped off..you apply the 105 or 111 over the 601...
4) Apply Duragloss TPP 105 Total Performance Polish / Sealant).
5) After 12+ hours (time needed for the polymers to setup), apply another layer of Duragloss TPP 105.
6) After 12+ hours, apply a layer of Duragloss 951 Aquawax. It's a simple wipe on wipe off product, so this step goes very fast.
6) After 12+ hours, apply some Duragloss FC 921 (Fast Clean & Shine) with a clean microfiber towel. The FC 921 will add antistatic properties to the surface to minimize the attraction of dust, etc, and it adds a little bit of slickness and more beauty to the finish. This will keep your car looking nice for a long time and will easily give you 6+ months of protection.
For maintenance, wash your car every two weeks or month, etc with Duragloss 901 car wash. Apply a thin coat of Duragloss 951 Aquawax every month or two after washing . You can even use the Aquawax while the car is still damp. This will boost the protection even further and assure excellent uv protection, etc. After every wash, apply the FC 921 for added beauty, slickness and antistatic properties.
We live in an equestrian community with horse trails throughout our neighboods. We also have an arena on our main property and there's always dust in the air from the horses being worked, ridden, etc. Some of our vehicles are kept outside and keeping them clean has been a daunting task. I've definitely noticed these vehicles staying cleaner for longer periods of time and with less dust accumulation after using the Duragloss FC 921.
qadsan..a correction to your process..the 601 is to stay on the paint..do not buff it off..then you apply the 105 or 111 over the 601 that has hazed..
Al
Al, thanks for the reminder! That's exactly how I do it (and will correct my post). I'm usually doing many things at once and I'm often interupted while typing or trying to type too fast so I can get back to business, making money, etc, and I simply goofed up in typing the process correctly. :cheers:Al-53 said:
supercharged
New member
- Mar 7, 2006
- 7,305
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chu said:
Another good combo is DP Surface Shield sealant topped off with DP Max Wax.
justin_murphy
New member
- May 7, 2006
- 2,852
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supercharged said:
Awesome combo. I use the spray version of Surface Shield and 234 coat of Max Wax.......
OK.
2 coats!
supercharged
New member
- Mar 7, 2006
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The more I use Max Wax, the more I love it. I also love Liquid Souveran.justin30513 said:
TOGWT
SELF BANNED
- Dec 4, 2006
- 716
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Light coloured paint -i.e. Silver, White, etc (the exception is speed yellow) will never obtain jetting (the so called ‘wet-look’) of black or dark colours as they do not exhibit visible depth, light colours tends to refract light instead of reflecting it. You can obtain a good gloss provided the paint is good quality and if it’s prepared and detailed correctly; washed, cleaned, polished and a polymer sealant added (Zaino, Klasse AIO and SG, Jeffswerkstatt - Acrylic Jett, Duragloss 105 + LSP Aquawax ) these sealants will provide a flat silvery-white shine, but without ‘depth’. By adding a Carnauba wax as an LSP (Pinnacle Souverän Paste Carnauba or Autoglym Super Resin Polish) the oils that are formulated in the Carnauba waxes provide a reflective gloss, which causes jetting (a ‘wetting’ of the surface) For optimal results the surface of a light coloured paint to show gloss is very much dependant upon good / excellent paint condition, adequately prepped to remove contaminants and minor imperfections. Detailer’s clay (Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay Bar) and / or Paint cleaner (Zaino PC or Klasse AIO) should be a regular part of the preparation process.
{Experience; [and the correct information] can be a great teacher}
{Experience; [and the correct information] can be a great teacher}
Nica
New member
- Oct 23, 2006
- 3,728
- 0
TOGWT,
That is a good review, I took particular interest because I own a silver SUV and I would really like to make it shine, not to mention it’s brand new and I would really like to keep it looking new. Just a question for you, I’m leaning into the natural sealants. Reason being that I do not know enough about the synthetic types such as you mentioned “Zaino, Klasse AIO and SG, Jeffswerkstatt - Acrylic Jett, Duragloss 105 + LSP Aquawax” I’m assuming that these are synthetic? The only thing that I know about synthetics is that they last longer and provide a longer protection.
So my question is this, what sealant can I use that is more natural? In addition, I will definitely top it off with Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax.
That is a good review, I took particular interest because I own a silver SUV and I would really like to make it shine, not to mention it’s brand new and I would really like to keep it looking new. Just a question for you, I’m leaning into the natural sealants. Reason being that I do not know enough about the synthetic types such as you mentioned “Zaino, Klasse AIO and SG, Jeffswerkstatt - Acrylic Jett, Duragloss 105 + LSP Aquawax” I’m assuming that these are synthetic? The only thing that I know about synthetics is that they last longer and provide a longer protection.
So my question is this, what sealant can I use that is more natural? In addition, I will definitely top it off with Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax.
embolism
New member
- Dec 8, 2010
- 2,322
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yes do an ONR wash, inspect for surface bonded contaminants and remove if OCD (like the rest of us), then wax
I thought you used DG 601 so you didn't have to wait 12 hours for the polymers to crosslink (brings it down to 2 hrs or so) or is that only if you do the 4 parts 105 to 1 part 601 mixture before application?
I thought you used DG 601 so you didn't have to wait 12 hours for the polymers to crosslink (brings it down to 2 hrs or so) or is that only if you do the 4 parts 105 to 1 part 601 mixture before application?