Wax gone after 2-4 weeks...why?

1

'14 5.0

New member
Joined
Jun 15, 2013
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
I have a 2014 Mustang GT with silver grey metallic paint on which I regularly use meguiar's ultimate paste wax.

I used Meguire's NXT paste wax on my previous 2002 Mustang GT and it usually lasted atleast 2 months if not more. I've read that the NXT and Ultimate are comparable waxes however I can't get the Ultimate to last for more than 2-4 weeks, especially on the hood. I have not been able to find anyone else complaining about the life of this wax so I'm assuming it has something to do with the new car and/or me. Also, I typically wash the car once a week with Meguire's ultimate wash.

Keep in mind both of the vehicles are subject to the same Florida sun exposure and regular rain. Both cars are in a garage at night but exposed to the elements for almost all daylight hours.

My detailing method is simple, I clay bar any part of the car that feels "rough" using a plastic bag as a feeler (after washing and drying of course). Then I wax half of the vehicle, remove the wax, then finish the rest. I always wax in my garage in the shade, always use microfiber wax pads and rags, always apply by hand, always use the same amount of wax.

Is this wax really this crappy or does it have something to do with my technique? Do the newer cars have something in the paint that keeps them from holding wax longer?

Any opinions are welcome
 
When the car is freshly waxed a clean microfiber cloth wipes smoothly over the surface (very slick) and water beads up very well. After some weeks you can barely rub a towel over it (it just wants to roll and stick to the paint), the slickness is completely gone and it almost feels "squeaky" clean if that makes any sense. Water also creates more of a slick than beads which also leads me to believe the wax is gone or almost gone.

The roof and hood seem to go first, then the sides follow shortly after...it would make me think the sun is wearing it away by why so soon?
 
Has the paint been clayed, de-ironed, and hit with at least a paint cleaner? This will ensure you are starting with a clean surface. New cars can come with contamination from the factory.
 
When I first got the car I clay bared the entire thing, then I went over it lightly with some P21 "paintwork cleanser" and finished up with the Maguire's Ultimate paste wax. I have done everything by hand... maybe I wasn't aggressive enough?



Sent from my Surface Pro 3 using Tapatalk
 
I would be sure to use a clay bar then a paint cleaner (such as Pinnacles offering). Applying wax will be your last step.

I found that Meguiars waxes never lasted long in my environment so maybe another wax is in order for you. Collinite waxes are super durable.
 
'14 5.0 said:
When I first got the car I clay bared the entire thing, then I went over it lightly with some P21 "paintwork cleanser" and finished up with the Maguire's Ultimate paste wax. I have done everything by hand... maybe I wasn't aggressive enough?



Sent from my Surface Pro 3 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That is a good approach. As in my previous post, I never found Meg's waxes to last long.
 
I have been more than satisfied with the results that I get from the Meguires Ultimate it just doesn't last long enough for me...looks like it's time to start shopping.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
 
Megs ultimate is a great product but won't give good durability unless layered. Consider Collinte 476 or a coating if you are looking for longer term protection.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using AG Online
 
Put a sealant on it, blackfire wolfgang or 4 star and you will be happy you did. I tell customers that I do not recommend a wax in spring or summer, I live in florida. The pollen and dust seems to be a magnet for wax. Just my opinion
 
Thanks for the quick and helpful replies everyone, looks like I'll be purchasing a sealant in the near future

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
 
eaglefan said:
Put a sealant on it, blackfire wolfgang or 4 star and you will be happy you did. I tell customers that I do not recommend a wax in spring or summer, I live in florida. The pollen and dust seems to be a magnet for wax. Just my opinion
Click to expand...


Ultimate wax is a sealant.

I have never had issues with it but your environment is a little more extreme. Even then you should see around 3-4 months out of it. Just to let you know UW sheets better than it beads. Ultimate wash and wax does leave some wax behind it so you could also be seeing that. Never been a fan of ultimate wash and wax. Try a soap that leaves nothing behind and hit up your existing UW with some ultimate quik detailer or ultimate quik wax to give it back some life.

I personally have seen 5 months out of UW using it by itself.

If after trying this and it doesn't work then you can move over to something else.
 
The Guz said:
Ultimate wax is a sealant.

I have never had issues with it but your environment is a little more extreme. Even then you should see around 3-4 months out of it. Just to let you know UW sheets better than it beads. Ultimate wash and wax does leave some wax behind it so you could also be seeing that. Never been a fan of ultimate wash and wax. Try a soap that leaves nothing behind and hit up your existing UW with some ultimate quik detailer or ultimate quik wax to give it back some life.

I personally have seen 5 months out of UW using it by itself.

If after trying this and it doesn't work then you can move over to something else.
Click to expand...

That could possibly be part of the problem as well, I did switch wash brands right about the same time I went to the Maguire's Ultimate Wax...

Prior to the Maguire's wash I was using a RainX brand wash, the one with the small beads in it; I believe it is also considered a wash & wax.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
 
I have found both Meguiars Ultimate Paste and Ultimate Liquid wax to easily last as long as Collinite 845. They don't last quite as long as 915, or 476, but not much to choose from for me between 845 and UPW/ULW.
 
'14 5.0 said:
My detailing method is simple, I clay bar any part of the car that feels "rough" using a plastic bag as a feeler (after washing and drying of course). Then I wax half of the vehicle, remove the wax, then finish the rest. I always wax in my garage in the shade, always use microfiber wax pads and rags, always apply by hand, always use the same amount of wax.

Is this wax really this crappy or does it have something to do with my technique? Do the newer cars have something in the paint that keeps them from holding wax longer?

Any opinions are welcome
Click to expand...

This is really hunt-and-peck but here is my input for your consideration:

1. Has this problem been going on since you acquired this particular vehicle? Or is it more like the universe has experienced some minute change ..... enough that you now experience these symptoms?

2. You say you use MF Wax pads and rags. What "rags" are these? How many pads and rags do you go through in the clay step? Also, what clay lube do you use?

3. When you apply the wax does the pad and/or rags get dirty? Do you prime the MF pad at all with water and/or product?

4. So essentially you have 2 basic processes depending on the condition of the panel or area on a panel:
a) wash/dry, clay, wax
b) wash/dry, wax

Post-claybar step..... if you performed the baggie test on every panel, whether you clayed or not, do you have smoothe surfaces with no grab/friction?
 
I bought my car new back in April 4/14.

First thing I did was wash it well using CG's Maxi-Suds with a little APC.
Clayed it very well.
Polished using the Meguiar's 205 and the Wolfgang Uber Compound on the areas that was worst caused by the dealership.

I applied one coat of Wolfgang Glossy Paint Sealant, this stuff rocks.
After cure time I applied one coat of Collinite 845, after cure time I hit it with some Duragloss 951 for added shine and slickness.

So it's been three months and it's like the day I applied it, laying did the trick.

As for as the NXT I get decent results, 2 months depending on how often I wash it.

It pays to get the best that you know of and stick with it, if it's not holding up for you may I recommend trying the Collinite 845, easy on and off and will last 4-5 months plus you'll love the shine.

Bottom line:

The Wolfgang Paint Sealant is the best AG offers, IMO that is:)
 
mwoolfso said:
This is really hunt-and-peck but here is my input for your consideration:



1. Has this problem been going on since you acquired this particular vehicle? Or is it more like the universe has experienced some minute change ..... enough that you now experience these symptoms?



2. You say you use MF Wax pads and rags. What "rags" are these? How many pads and rags do you go through in the clay step? Also, what clay lube do you use?



3. When you apply the wax does the pad and/or rags get dirty? Do you prime the MF pad at all with water and/or product?



4. So essentially you have 2 basic processes depending on the condition of the panel or area on a panel:

a) wash/dry, clay, wax

b) wash/dry, wax



Post-claybar step..... if you performed the baggie test on every panel, whether you clayed or not, do you have smoothe surfaces with no grab/friction?
Click to expand...







1.) I switched vehicles and waxes at the same time unfortunately... up until today I assumed the wax was at fault but after reading others' reviews it seems this is not a typical problem with this product.



2.) By rags I mean microfiber towels... admittedly they are not the high quality towels that are sold by autogeek, they are your typical Walmart/Autoparts Store microfiber car towels. In the clay step I'll typically go through 2-3 towels and I use the Maguire's Quick Detail spray that came with my clay bar kit.



3.) The wax pad and rags never seem to get dirty, nor does the clay bar really. The only reason I go through more than one towel during the clay step is because my dry finishing wipe towel tends to get a little saturated with quick detailer and I'll switch to a fresh/dry towel.



I have not tried priming the applicator prior to using it, they are always new and bone dry.



4.) After the clay bar step, which typically takes multiple passes with this car (ie spray, clay, wipe, test with baggie, spray again, clay again, test again...etc.), with other vehicles I could typically get a smooth surface after one use of the clay bar per area. Once the area is free from the rough, gritty feel (using the baggie) it still is pretty grabby, it definitely isn't smooth like it is after waxing.



Is it typical to wet an applicator prior to putting wax on it? I've read this for my leather cleaners/conditioners but not with wax... however I am still a bit of a newbie at this.



Sent from my Surface Pro 3 using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top