Wax won't come off car

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jeepz

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Hello,

So, today I applied some fleet wax to my jeep and after letting it dry for about 10-15 minutes, I tried to buff it off with microfiber cloths. It took me about an hour, just to do the front hood. Of course, I had gone ahead and did the whole car at once (at an attempt to save time - bad idea!).

At this point, I pretty much have to apply full pressure with a finger or two through the cloth and rub hard to get about a 1"x2" area. I gave up.

I ordered a good random orbital with foam pads and microfiber pads which will come in tomorrow. I'm assuming this should do the job.

Are there any considerations I should take, since the wax will have been basically sitting on the car for a day. Should I re-wax (over the wax) then use the orbital or would it be fine to just take a microfiber cloth and wipe down the area, make sure there's no grime and go at it, I read that the foam pad is probably best for this. Any suggestions would be very helpful! Thank you!


Here's a picture as she stands... :/

O0TL8Kj.jpg
 
Well for one you used wayyyyy to much wax. You only need a light thin layer. From the looks of it you globbed it all on there. Its had to come off because you used way too much.
 
Wow, yeah too much for sure. If I get wax that is stubborn at getting off, I usually just hit it with a little spray wax as I'm wiping it off and it will help a lot. Not sure if it would work with that much wax like you've got on there.

Is that "fleet wax" a paste or liquid? What's the name of it, that may help in getting the best answer.
 
I just died a little bit....

i'd just wash the car from the start and go from there.
 
Oh man.... Ok, so this is what I used Fleetwax Paste Wax » Collinite

It's for boats, so.. it must be good for cars?

I think the picture with the flash at night makes it stand out a lot more, it was on pretty thin, I used a foam pad and it didn't use too much... although it does seem pretty blotchy.

I don't think a car wash is gonna remove it, I mean, it's REALLY on there.. you could use a finger nail to scrape it off or rub really really hard with a cloth.
 
Got it, I have no idea but it's going to be a major job for sure considering it appears to be a marine wax. Let us know how it goes.
 
Some tips from the tech sheet on the Collinite website, which instructs users to apply to MAX 2x2 area and buff off when wax starts to haze. (This is Collinite #885).

If surface is soiled with contaminants (stains/dirt/oxidation etc) that cannot be removed
with a regular wash, first use Collinite’s No. 920 Fiberglass Boat Cleaner.

• Only apply to a CLEAN surface; washed, and free of blemishes, discoloration or other
imperfections like swirls or scratches. A clean/properly-prepped surface will ease the
application/removal process; improving spread and increasing durability of wax’s bond.

• Do NOT apply wax to entire boat or vehicle, or sections larger than recommended before
removing, as prolonged drying or cure times may lead to wax hardening on surface; causing
streaking or difficulty for some users to remove properly. User assumes risk if recommended cure
times are exceeded.

• Drying times may vary based on conditions (air and surface temperature, wind, humidity,
sunlight etc).
• Avoid applying in direct sunlight, or extreme temperatures (over 80 degrees F or less
than 55 degrees F). Surface temperatures should feel lukewarm-room temperature to the
touch. Do not apply if surface feels cold or hot to the touch.

• Safe to use with machine buffer if experienced. Check machine manufacturer’s
speed/pad specifications for last step protective paste waxes that contain no cleaners,
abrasives or filling agents.

• To further maintain the look and durability of the waxed finish between wax applications,
use a boat wash soap that is pH neutral and gentle on the finish with no grease-cutting
properties. Avoid heavy detergents or low-grade soap
 
jeepz said:
Oh man.... Ok, so this is what I used Fleetwax Paste Wax » Collinite

It's for boats, so.. it must be good for cars?

I think the picture with the flash at night makes it stand out a lot more, it was on pretty thin, I used a foam pad and it didn't use too much... although it does seem pretty blotchy.

I don't think a car wash is gonna remove it, I mean, it's REALLY on there.. you could use a finger nail to scrape it off or rub really really hard with a cloth.
Click to expand...

Directions to use Collinite #885:
Store product at room temperatue and shake well before using
Apply to a clean cool surface
Using a soft applicator pad apply a very thin coat to a 2x2 section at a time
Wait for wax to haze
Remove using a plush microfiber towel
Avoid rubber or trim when applying
 
Yeah, I guess it's a good idea to follow the directions.
 
Yeah, directions are good, but it's on there, and now we gotta figure out how to get it off. Have you tried IPA yet? That might help loosen it,
 
jarred767 said:
Yeah, directions are good, but it's on there, and now we gotta figure out how to get it off. Have you tried IPA yet? That might help loosen it,
Click to expand...

No, I haven't. I mean, I'd prefer to keep it on and buff it out if I can.

I'll have the polisher in tomorrow sometime, so I'm thinking I'll try with a lil re-wax then using the polisher on it, see how that does, will do a small spot and maybe also with a spray polisher to wet it a little and try with that.
 
I would try taking some more of the same product you originally applied and reapply to a small section. Then buff it off immediately. The reapplication of fresh product should soften up what's already on there.
 
2black1s said:
I would try taking some more of the same product you originally applied and reapply to a small section. Then buff it off immediately. The reapplication of fresh product should soften up what's already on there.
Click to expand...

+1 good advice, I'd probably do that first now that I'm thinking of it. Let us know how it goes, good luck, and oh, Welcome to AGO!!:props:
 
I'd recommend watching a video of how to apply a sealant. You used WAY to much product. You should hardly be able to see the product on the paint during application and even after it hazes. You want to apply a translucent film - not a visible one.

As an example, it should take about 1/2 oz or less of product to do a regular car by hand.

If you apply any wax/sealant correctly - you can pretty much disregard the directions on how "quick" you need to remove it - because it will remove fairly easily even after it sits an hour. Although, I'd recommend just doing a few panels or so at a time.

At this point, you need a way to fix it, assuming you already haven't. You could patiently buff it off the whole car - which sounds like it could take days (and possibly mar the paint from excess pressure) - a "buffer" won't help you here.

The easiest way I can think of to remove it would be mineral spirits on a quality MF towel, using several towels carefully. IME MS will work better than IPA, as it has some "lube" to it, and can actually remove durable LSPs IPA can't.

I'd forget trying to "keep the wax on"... At this point, the professional fix is to remove what you have and start over.
 
Ok, so now that we've beaten the poor guy down for failing to RTFM, Any other suggestions?

I don't think I'd try initially to buff it off using the new DA. Maybe a hard IPA wipe then polish and wax (correctly) ? I certainly wouldn't be the cheapass and try to leave this abomination on the car.

I've seen instances where Terry rags will cut better than microfiber, but it'll still probably need the polish/wax after in this case.
 
If I have wax dry on me sometimes just a good wetting with a quick detailer will soften it enough after a few minutes to wipe it off. Another option is if you got a power washer could try to power wash off a lot of it but that could put wax on your plastics and windows adding more nightmares????????????? Collanite waxes need to be put on super thin. Its a lesson learned after all this hassle you wont do it ever again.
 
Water would just not penetrate the thick layer of wax even if used from a pressure washer. The wax would break the surface tension immediately and water would bead up.. Beading will be awesome though...LOL


Try spraying QD, like ONR or UWWP in clay lube concentration and tackle small section by section. Alternatively ,try a spray wax.

If not working, go for IPA wipedown.

Have a hunch that concentrated car wash with an ounce or two of APC mixed in should be able to remove most of it
 
OMG! Wow. Just wow. I'd try washing the car but spike the suds with APC and just use a coarse sponge. Sure you'll put scratches on the vehicle but you have to get that 30lbs of wax off.

I appreciate the DIY attitude, but clearly you need help. Find a local detailer who will allow you to observe so that you can learn. Please do not take a machine that you just bought to any vehicle even if you watch a "video" Just trying to look out for you here. :surrender:
 
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