waxing and glazing..

[tgstang21]

so if i was planning on washing, claying, washing, polishing, glazing (first time i'll be trying this), sealing with wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant, then topping with 2 coats of pinnacle, are you guys saying that adding the glaze is a bad idea? Or will it add some nice gloss/wetness to the overall finish?

 

[klumzypinoy]

so if i was planning on washing, claying, washing, polishing, glazing (first time i'll be trying this), sealing with wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant, then topping with 2 coats of pinnacle, are you guys saying that adding the glaze is a bad idea? Or will it add some nice gloss/wetness to the overall finish?

It would not be a good idea to use a glaze then use wolfgang sealant, since glazes have oils and sealants cannot bond to the paint. If you use Wolfgang glaze, then that's fine . After polishing, have a spray bottle of half isopropyl alcohol and half water to spray on the paint like a QD to take off the oils from the polish. Just mist and wipe off. Then put the wolfgang sealant on the whole car, then wait 40 minutes, buff off, let it cure for 12 hours, then wax the car, with one hour inbetween coats. Hope this helps!

 

[julian]

hey Thanks for the reply!
I've been clay barring the whole truck, then got out the rotory and some polish and have been taking it real slow, 1 fender at a time then applying the show glaze to it. I will be on to the sealant and Natty's blue here shortly.. I'll have some pics worthy to show before long.
I thought some curing of the glaze would be OK, the oils really don't dry in to the paint/clear? What really hurts me is not having a garage to do this all in, and I drive it a hundred miles each day..

 

[klumzypinoy]

If the glaze needs to be dried before removal, then do it that way. Other wise, buff off right after u're done glazing. What kind of glaze are you using? The sealant won't bond to the paint correctly since you're using a glaze, so just go straight to the wax .

 

[TOGWT]

Product specific (excerptions to the bonding ‘rule’) –
a) Danase Wet Glaze is a pure gloss enhancer i.e. on-abrasive and with a low solvent content; it’s made with acrylic polymers that form a covalent bond to the paint surface, polymers also allow it to be topped with a wax or sealant without any bonding issues - http://

b)Zaino Clear Seal (Z-CS) is a polymer product that will bond to a wax or oil-based product, ZCS is just a clear glossy layer without much of a look of its own, but locks in the look underneath it, which makes it ideal to ‘seal’ a glaze type product - http:// www.

 

[justin_murphy]

There are no oils to replace in paint. You can't "feed" paint nor can you nourish paint. That's a myth perpetuated by clever marketing back in the early Zymol days, and sadly it continues today.

In my personal opinion glazes are a waste and more trouble than help.

Clean and prep the paint then seal it. Proper paint prep is what gives you the shine, depth and gloss in paint.

Anthony

I totally agree. I've noticed no differences from a glaze when the paint is PROPERLY POLISHED. In fact, when polished with 106ff correctly, I can barely tell the difference when I add an LSP!

If paints had oils in it, it will never harden to begin with.

 

[blk45]

I totally agree. I've noticed no differences from a glaze when the paint is PROPERLY POLISHED. In fact, when polished with 106ff correctly, I can barely tell the difference when I add an LSP!

If paints had oils in it, it will never harden to begin with.

Don't you add some RMG or VMG to your 106?

 

[Surfer]

I bought a bottle when I first started detailing. I was used to Zaino, so you can tell where I'm going with this. I didn't see it last longer than maybe a week or so. Not good whatsoever, the only Poorboys product I'm a little disappointed with.

Something was definiltey wrong with your bottle, EX-P beads for around 3 months for me, I have two coats on one of the cars from back in end of July and is starting to get blobby now and not bead.

 

[P1et]

Something was definiltey wrong with your bottle, EX-P beads for around 3 months for me, I have two coats on one of the cars from back in end of July and is starting to get blobby now and not bead.

Wow, maybe something _was_ wrong with my bottle because that is really not what I'm seeing whatsoever. One or two layers looked great, but beading was "OK" and slickness was gone in no time.

 

[budman3]

Wow, maybe something _was_ wrong with my bottle because that is really not what I'm seeing whatsoever. One or two layers looked great, but beading was "OK" and slickness was gone in no time.

EX-P was updated mid '05 I believe... the older version was thick and hard to use without a machine... the updated version is thinner, added slickness, looks and durability. Not sure if you had an older version or not but comparing the old vs new there is a nice improvement.

 

[TOGWT]

I totally agree. I've noticed no differences from a glaze when the paint is PROPERLY POLISHED. In fact, when polished with 106ff correctly, I can barely tell the difference when I add an LSP!

If paints had oils in it, it will never harden to begin with.

Most polishes are formulated with oil or an oil in water - emulsion to lubricate the paint surface.

Before the advent of water-based paints oil was the biggest % content of paint