Waxing and opti-coat/cquartz

[jcarson112]

No doubt you have just read the thread title and thought to yourself... Why would you waste your time doing that. However, I just had a few curiosities which maybe some of you can put to bed.

I have been away from everything auto detailing for the last oh 4-6 months and when I walked away these coating products were not available to the mass market. I was curious as to the type of gloss/shine/smoothness with which these products leave on the surface. Also, aside from (seemingly) wasting time, if you didn't get the depth you were looking for in the paint color would waxing over the coating help you gain additional depth? I have a decent amount of wax lying around (the good stuff) and actually enjoy applying it so I figure I would ask the pro's on this subject.

Mom always said, no one can give you an answer if they didn't know you had a question. Thanks guys and gals!

 

[jbgrant]

I'm glad you asked this question. I too would like to know what waxes or other LSPs people who are using OC and CQ ceramic super-sealants are finding best. If I purchase either of these products, I will certainly be wanting to layer something more ephemeral onto it for added depth and perhaps some more protection.

OC/CQ users, what have you tried?
- How was the application?
- Did the product appear to bond well?
- Visual results?
- Any issues?

Thanks!

 

[Chris Thomas]

Opti Seal, Optimum Car Wax, and Optimum Instant Detailer can certainly be added to "amp up" the glow and improve the "slick feel" that many of you desire. But, one of the attributes of Opti Coat is that not much will stick to it. That makes cleaning a snap, but also decreases the life of any toppers you may want to try. As you are all aware, unless a wax is a hybrid, it just sits on the surface anyway and can melt off in the heat whether coated or not. This is the same effect that topping Opti Coat will have with not only waxes, but sealants and hybrids as well. I am not saying that it will fall off in a few days and I am not saying that it will come off as soon as it is washed once, but I am saying that an 8 month sealant may only last a month on an Opti Coated vehicle. Also, I personally haven't seen a wax allow such spectacular beading that just blows right off with a blower like Opti Coat...and I'm certain that topping Opti Coat will lessen this attribute. So...if you MUST top, I recommend a quick, easy, and cheap product that you won't feel bad applying since it will be gone in a short time.

 

[CEE DOG]

Edit: You do get great looks with the coatings if thats a fear. As long as you polish the paint good it's going to look great! I thought the Opti-coat had a lot of depth to it.

If I was to put something down on a coating I would start with OCW over Opti-coat and Reload for CQuartz. That is just my first thought. I have no experience with topping either yet. But based on what Chris just mentioned Optimum Car Wax would certainly be covered by his criteria and we know it is compatible with OptiCoat.

Also, Richy (who I have a lot of respect for) said the Reload works nicely for this.

 

[jcarson112]

Hey, great guys thanks for the input. Lastly could someone speak upon the ease of application. I did watch your review with all the application vids CEE but anything can look easy and I'm notorious for screwing up because something looked easy and then I'm over my head.

 

[TornadoRed]

Glad to see you back here jcarson. I hope you don't mind I stole your avatar.

 

[CEE DOG]

Hey, great guys thanks for the input. Lastly could someone speak upon the ease of application. I did watch your review with all the application vids CEE but anything can look easy and I'm notorious for screwing up because something looked easy and then I'm over my head.

The Cquartz is a more fool proof application in the warm temperatures for a first time user. Mainly because you are supposed to buff it off so there is no learning curve on when or how hard you should buff it. You just look at the minimum time listed for your temperature and then remove.

The OC is easy to use if you follow a simple directive that I did not know when I used the product initially. I learned it myself. That simple directive is remove the high spots as quickly as possible as you go. At least this was what I found to be true. Again my temps were high. If you were in a garage below 80 degrees I think that would help to. Also as using a regular foam applicator would have made thins a bit easier for me probably and instead of spreading it the way I did I think Chris recommended applying it more like a wowa sealant where you go over the area a bit with the pad.

 

[Chris Thomas]

I guess the best way to explain how to apply Opti Coat is to compare it to something we all already do. Let's compare it to polishing: First apply the product to the pad, then spread it quickly over the panel (add drops of OC to the pad as needed as it will get grabby when you need more), then move back-forth followed by side-side for a nice even coat. Then light the area and look at the panel from several different angles to check for this:

Then knock it down with light pressure just until it's clear. If you leave these they will harden like this.

Corey used a tiny make up applicator that made it look more tedious than it actually is, no offense intended. I have seen a CQuartz application video where they applied that product in that manner so therein may lie the confusion as we suggest a much larger applicator that doesn't absorb much.

 

[Matt S.]

Not "mandatory" IMO, but you can use Reload with C-Quartz or Opti Seal with Opti Coat to really amp up the slickness and improve gloss slightly. Both coatings look great on their own, but if anything they are lacking in the slickness department compared to traditional waxes, and sealants especially.

 

[jcarson112]

I guess the best way to explain how to apply Opti Coat is to compare it to something we all already do. Let's compare it to polishing: First apply the product to the pad, then spread it quickly over the panel (add drops of OC to the pad as needed as it will get grabby when you need more), then move back-forth followed by side-side for a nice even coat. Then light the area and look at the panel from several different angles to check for this:

Then knock it down with light pressure just until it's clear. If you leave these they will harden like this.

Corey used a tiny make up applicator that made it look more tedious than it actually is, no offense intended. I have seen a CQuartz application video where they applied that product in that manner so therein may lie the confusion as we suggest a much larger applicator that doesn't absorb much.

So basically apply it how I would WGDGPS, powerlock, or opti-seal, using the 4" foam hand pads and do a straight line application then go over it to cross hatch it but watch out for the oily looking patches and knock them down further.

If that's the case I think I can handle these. I suppose the worst that can happen is I have to re-do things and then polish out the golf again

 

[richy]

Not "mandatory" IMO, but you can use Reload with C-Quartz or Opti Seal with Opti Coat to really amp up the slickness and improve gloss slightly. Both coatings look great on their own, but if anything they are lacking in the slickness department compared to traditional waxes, and sealants especially.

Matt, :iagree:totally. I have been playing with these coatings (OC and CQ) since last summer. For me, ReLoad is a must on top of each one. I demand a few things from my paint finish:
Looks
Durability
Sheeting/Beading Capability
Slickness.

The CQ is not bad for slickness on its own, but not up to the standards of a sealant. OC is nowhere close. Both can be easily made slick by the addition of ReLoad. Aquawax helps too, but I have found ReLoad to be better. The other thing I have found is with the coatings, you need to "buff in" the spray more than usual. Just a quick spray on and immediate buff off will not yield results as good as working it in. That's my experience anyway.

 

[Chris Thomas]

So basically apply it how I would WGDGPS, powerlock, or opti-seal, using the 4" foam hand pads and do a straight line application then go over it to cross hatch it but watch out for the oily looking patches and knock them down further.

If that's the case I think I can handle these. I suppose the worst that can happen is I have to re-do things and then polish out the golf again

Very nice summary, that's exactly right. When done properly it goes very quick.


Sent from my iPad 2 viaTapatalk