We are in need of severe help. PLEASE.

LOL, cool poster. However, I am lucky to have a 1st Generation DSM where crank walk is not prone to happen.

Thanks guys I will reply back with updates and numerous pics!!!!!!!!

The wife said yes!

-Josh
 
LOL, cool poster. However, I am lucky to have a 1st Generation DSM where crank walk is not prone to happen.

Thanks guys I will reply back with updates and numerous pics!!!!!!!!

The wife said yes!

-Josh

1g or 2g, 6 bolt or 7 bolt, they both walk. 2ga's(95-96) are just more prone to it. This is coming from someone whos been working on and building up DSM's for about 6 years now.

Just make sure you sand inbetween every 2 or 3 coats, and best of luck to ya. :xyxthumbs:
 
Actually if you own a 2G (or 7 bolt) your crank-walk stance is very high.

If you own a 6 bolt the crank walk is wayyyyyyyy less chance.

But either way its possible for both TECHNICALLY.

I'm thinking about doing a you-tube vid or something for the progress.

Thanks for all the help guys

-Josh
 
Check with a hardware store like Lowe's or Home Depot, see if they can order you in larger sizes than quarts. If they can't then just use quarts.

I've done a Rustoleum repair job to a black finish, I actually used a brush, not a roller. I built up 2-3 coats and let it dry for a couple of weeks in the sun and then sanded it flat and then buffed out my sanding marks and it came out really nice.

Two things,

1) From experience, Rustoleum enamel is very soft compared to automotive paints. This means it will be easy to remove your sanding marks. (It's always easy to put sanding marks into the paint)

2) This is going to be a single stage paint when you're done and as such will be prone to oxidation and dulling fairly easy. Modern clear coats don't really oxidize, the just get filled with swirls. Single stage paints get both, oxidation and swirls.

So after you're finished with this process, you're going to want to use non-detergent soaps to wash the car with, that's because single stage paints are easier to dry out and this results in oxidation.

You'll want to find a non-abrasive polish to keep the paint deep and dark looking and the top with a good paint sealant or coat of wax.
Single stage paints can look as good and in some people's opinions better than clear coat finishes because you see the true color, not the true color with a coating of plastic wrap over it. They don't last as long without regular maintenance.

:)
 
Ok guys, I haven't been on here in a little over a week, but I'm about half-way through my rustoleum "50$" paint job.

I read all the threads, and videos and everything for a long time before buying all the stuff. I did the absolute best I could, and me and my wife painted the car. I did all the prep/masking/sand work and she rollered it on.

Let me know what you think so far...


Before:

Halfway:



 
OMG S*** WOW!!!!


That is a real turn around!

While I can't see that well from the pictures it looks 100x better than it did before!!!!
 
Thanks guys, I'm pretty impressed with the roller-job too.

I'm also interested in painting my wheels, I don't have the money to go blow 350$+++ on wheels for the car, so all I can do is paint them.

I have a color in mind, but i dont know whether to keep them stock, or paint them Gun Metal Graphite.

What do you guys think?

I don't want to go with black, its too (already thought of).

But I think gun-metal graphite would look nice on that red/black trim.

Let me know your thoughts...

Josh
 
That is really amazing! :urtheman:

I've always wondered how well a paint job would come out using spray cans. I've laid down some pretty decent coats of paint with them and knew that someone would do it!!! :props: :props: :props:
 
^^^^no,he didn't use rattle cans but used the "roller" method that has been talked about and mentioned for years.

op, kudos to you. looks amazing, you better take your wifey out to dinner, she did an excellent job also. so, judging by the after pics, you have already wet sanded and polished i assume?
 
^^^^no,he didn't use rattle cans but used the "roller" method that has been talked about and mentioned for years.

op, kudos to you. looks amazing, you better take your wifey out to dinner, she did an excellent job also. so, judging by the after pics, you have already wet sanded and polished i assume?

Sorry, wayyyy back in the beginning we discussed the rattle can method so I just assumed that was the route taken. Having it come out looking like that with a roller is even more incredible!
 
No, thats why i said there only half-way photos.

I still need to re-coat the car 4-5 more times, then wet-sand/polish.
 
No, thats why i said there only half-way photos.

I still need to re-coat the car 4-5 more times, then wet-sand/polish.

Can't wait for the pics after being wet-sanded and polished!!!!! :props:
 
No, thats why i said there only half-way photos.

I still need to re-coat the car 4-5 more times, then wet-sand/polish.

i see. nice turn around, it will look alot better when wetsanded and buffed.
btw, don't go and paint those stockers. it will ruin it. just save your pennies and buy a real set of wheels. don't try to make them something they aren't. plus the gunmetal will most def. clash with the red. i mean, do as you please, just trying to stop you from creating something that shouldn't.
 
Wow! That looks amazing! Can't wait to see the pics when you're completely done! :dblthumb2:
 
WOW! Never thought applying rollers would produce good results..i always thought they were hoaxes. Great work!

Hmmm..i'm more knowledgeable in painting than in detailing (as far as using machine goes,i've been detailing on hand for years). Now, that makes me wonder if some polyurethane paint mixed really thinly with thinner applied by roller would also produce great results! Then pure catalyst with some thinner on a spray bottle to harden the "just-rolled" area to avoid dripping. Maybe i could try that on a beat-up panel.

I'm really learning a lot from this forum!!
 
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