Wet Sanding BMW

hernandez.art13

hernandez.art13

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I could not find my last thread but the BMW is getting the full paint Detail. Orange peel sanded Off from repaint . This is a quick phone shot but I used my canon rebel for better shots.

I am on lunch right,

Taped it and covered it
So far clayed the car,l
And now currently wet and damp sanding

1,000-3000 the front end got repainted.

C7B06308-8449-441A-9DB7-FB19C1CA49E8-2057-0000021985C38E43_zps20e01ac7.jpg
 
I have all the pictures taken on my canon. So can't upload them. But will...

Basically the PC is good for wet sanding but horrible for removing sanding marks. My Technique might be a strong factor. (Not good enough, idk) I damp sanded to 3000.

Tried 105 them switched to 3M compound instead with yellow pad.

The flat panels were easier to buff out, but the front has a lot of curves. Where the PC stopped rotating.

We decided we got 50% paint correction it looks great until you shine a light to it. Lol

(I jokingly said, just drive it at night time and nobody will know :D)

We have a rotary coming in tomorrow. (cousin) and I'll use my Rotary and fix the rest of the finer scratches.

(Triple Team)

We un-unwantingly achieved the mirror finish (zero orange peel) :D

8 hours of paint correction, I also clayed the entire vehicle.

Clay, wet sand, and compound

My estimator uncle (his car) helped me out too. So it was a 2 man job.

After correcting the sanding marks, I'll be removing the swirls of the rest of the car.

Then finally opti coat.
 
What pads were you guys using with the da?
Good thread Art.
Putting myself in your shoes, I would have chosen the rotary first. But I understand your need to master the da at some point.
 
This was the most correction I was able to achieve with my PC using a yellow pad and 2 passes with 3M compound after 3000


7B3565A2-3B16-4DEA-8547-73C22892DBDD-2057-00000279EFB120F4_zpsc67527dc.jpg


^ Why?

I'm just go back to rotary after wet sanding lol
 
Vegas Transplant said:
What pads were you guys using with the da?
Good thread Art.
Putting myself in your shoes, I would have chosen the rotary first. But I understand your need to master the da at some point.
Click to expand...

I used the CCS pads (just used the yellow in this case) The pad felt aggressive enough, it was my PC that lacked the strength IMO, I ran it at 6 (full speed) with enough pressure as possible but still making sure it was spinning.

Plus the PC took a long, long time. (To long for my personal liking.)

The PC on the bumper did practically zero correction because of the edges and curves.
 
hernandez.art13 said:
I used the CCS pads (just used the yellow in this case) The pad felt aggressive enough, it was my PC that lacked the strength IMO, I ran it at 6 (full speed) with enough pressure as possible but still making sure it was spinning.

Plus the PC took a long, long time. (To long for my personal liking.)

The PC on the bumper did practically zero correction because of the edges and curves.
Click to expand...

Maybe MF would have yielded better results on the flat panels.

That's the problem that I ran into when I first started with the DA. I don't do much wet sanding anymore due to the vehicles that I now work on.
Got to give you props for putting the DA into rotation. But there's a time and a place for certain tools. You have earned your wings with the rotary, kinda hard to put it on the work bench just to learn a lesson. I reach for the rotary in just about all cutting steps. Maybe if I had something more powerful than the PC the situation may be different.
 
What do you guys think of this? The car was repainted about 4 years ago. (It really was, By an unknown painter/process) Was this why I had trouble correcting the paint?
 
Well, since you always seem to have your trusty paint gauge on hand, I see it as part of the process of trying something new. Either that, or you didn't quite remove your sanding marks with each step. You know more about paint than I ever will.

edit: Also just noticed that photo is after just two section passes of compounding.
 
Vegas Transplant said:
Maybe MF would have yielded better results on the flat panels.

That's the problem that I ran into when I first started with the DA. I don't do much wet sanding anymore due to the vehicles that I now work on.
Got to give you props for putting the DA into rotation. But there's a time and a place for certain tools. You have earned your wings with the rotary, kinda hard to put it on the work bench just to learn a lesson. I reach for the rotary in just about all cutting steps. Maybe if I had something more powerful than the PC the situation may be different.
Click to expand...

Thank you Vegas Transplant, I purposely left my Rotary at home, so I can "strictly" use the DA. For all the paint steps,

Clay> Sand > buff (far as I got) lol

Clay was nice using Auto Scrub
&
The sanding was nice but still prefer compressed air DA

Now the buffing was a not for my liking while using my PC.

I am wondering what would have been the case if I had a Flex 3401? (would my expectations be achievable or do I need A Rotary?)

In this type of case...
 
david11g35 hit the nail on the head with his comment. I don't really see as many tracers as I thought would be present using the DA, but you did finish out with 3k. Maybe your process, pressure, amount of product used, pad cleaning/changing, section passes is not dialed in yet.
 
david11g35 said:
Surbuf pads would be a good option. The pc is under powered to remove sanding marks with foam pads. Mf would get you better results but I think you best bet is surbuf.. followed by mf then finish with foam. I have had good results with the surbuf.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruVUpab6AlY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

This is what I was trying to accomplish using my Yellow foam pad,(have never used surbuf, seen this video numerous times) :D

I am thinking of just buying myself a 3" backing plate and dedicating my PC for Headlights.

My Rotary is messed up, works but not like it should.

I am thinking about the Flex 3401, then sometime in the future (if need be) I'll get a Flex Rotary.

Yes the PTG was able to read the readings off each grit sand paper (after) I used, even after compound passes (was very exciting :D)
 
Vegas Transplant said:
david11g35 hit the nail on the head with his comment. I don't really see as many tracers as I thought would be present using the DA, but you did finish out with 3k. Maybe your process, pressure, amount of product used, pad cleaning/changing, section passes is not dialed in yet.
Click to expand...

Yes I agree I think this has a strong factor of the results I achieved.

I am used to wool pad and rotary
 
Well, you also wrote that you had 8 hrs of correction. If you were dialed in in your test spot, you should have had similar end results. I've followed your posts since you first landed here. I commend you for experiencing the DA. I too went backwards learning the rotary first. And also wasted countless hours correcting with the DA when I should have been cutting with the rotary. Not the case anymore. Some say that the end is near for rotary use. I beg to differ. But then again, I doubt if I will buy a $500 DA when the cutting step can be achieved by $75 craigslist rotary.
 
Cool thread Art, looking forward to the final finish.

As for removing sanding marks using a PC or any dual action polisher... can it be done? You bet. If a pad, product and tool combo can remove swirls and scratches that means it's removing paint and if it's removing paint that means eventually it can remove sanding marks.

Here's the deal though...

Sanding down and buffing out a car already takes a long time using a rotary buffer... using any less powerful tool is only going to make it take longer.

Keep up the good work. Give the new Meguiar's M100 a try sometime, it really cuts fast and finishes out nice using a wool pad and a rotary buffer.


:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Cool thread Art, looking forward to the final finish.

As for removing sanding marks using a PC or any dual action polisher... can it be done? You bet. If a pad, product and tool combo can remove swirls and scratches that means it's removing paint and if it's removing paint that means eventually it can remove sanding marks.

Here's the deal though...

Sanding down and buffing out a car already takes a long time using a rotary buffer... using any less powerful tool is only going to make it take longer.

Keep up the good work. Give the new Meguiar's M100 a try sometime, it really cuts fast and finishes out nice using a wool pad and a rotary buffer.


:)
Click to expand...
Mike what wool pad would you recommend for the Porter ? I used the MF pads and they cut better than my hex pads..
 
Vegas Transplant said:
Well, you also wrote that you had 8 hrs of correction. If you were dialed in in your test spot, you should have had similar end results. I've followed your posts since you first landed here. I commend you for experiencing the DA. I too went backwards learning the rotary first. And also wasted countless hours correcting with the DA when I should have been cutting with the rotary. Not the case anymore. Some say that the end is near for rotary use. I beg to differ. But then again, I doubt if I will buy a $500 DA when the cutting step can be achieved by $75 craigslist rotary.
Click to expand...

Thanks to AG I did do a test spot and was happy with the results until I shined the light to it. And stopped to call my uncle over.

I then told my uncle "lets leave it and we can tackle the rest of the sanding marks with a rotary tomorrow and call my cousin to see if he wants to come and help, and I'll work on the rest of your car for the time being" (I think the bug might have bit him yesterday, because he declined and wanted to keep going lol)

He then said "let's just buff out as much as we can with your machine" and tomorrow we can work on the little areas that your machine was unable to correct. Lol

I just agreed and kept going, because I was having a good time :D
 
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