Wet Sanding? Or....Not

julian said:
could be an arguable case.
if you sand down to the scratch, stop and polish, I'd say your in the same field of paint removal. for instance, start with 2000 paper - then 2500, then trizac 3000 to get the last of scratch removed. now it won't take much in the way of buffing to get the shine, now that you have a perfectly smooth surface to buff. I don't think were even talking microns at this point. But this is when an experienced hand knows the technique.
buffing, you still have to get to the lowest area of the scratch and then polish when you get there...;)
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Once again after you sanded the scratch out you still need to compound and polish the sanding marks out. Yes you are correct in oneway this is were experience comes in.Im the MAN
 
I have done some wet sanding. Before and after having some training from a professional. I felt I had practiced enough on and old door to tackle some scratches on my truck. I used 2500 paper. For the first time on my vehicle, I did a prety good job. Lighting is very important. I took my time and removed the scratch. Sorry no pics. You need an assistant to really do it correctly. I think Cake Daddy's video was very helpful and informative. It just looked like those scratches could have been removed with compound only. Good Post!
 
I hate to beat the Test Spot Drum, but here goes anyways...

When it comes to wet-sanding any factory baked-on finishes, (or any paint), I would offer one small little tip and that's before you sand down an entire car, or an entire panel, sand just a small area and then check to make sure you can remove all your sanding marks with your proposed selection of products, tools and of course skill level.

If you run into problems you can then make adjustments or ask for help until you dial in a proven method. Once you dial-in a proven system that meets your expectations you'll have the confidence to move forward.

:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I hate to beat the Test Spot Drum, but here goes anyways...

When it comes to wet-sanding any factory baked-on finishes, (or any paint), I would offer one small little tip and that's before you sand down an entire car, or an entire panel, sand just a small area and then check to make sure you can remove all your sanding marks with your proposed selection of products, tools and of course skill level.

If you run into problems you can then make adjustments or ask for help until you dial in a proven method. Once you dial-in a proven system that meets your expectations you'll have the confidence to move forward.

:)
Click to expand...

An excellent tip I learned from you a long time ago! :props:


My fiancee's car underwent a full repaint back in August after some serious hail damage. I've been too busy to get to it the last 4 weeks and I finally started sanding on it Wednesday night...and I'm sure you know all too well how hard these new high solids clear coats can get once they fully cure!!! :eek:

I started out by just sanding the hood to make sure it would buff out well (per your advice :) ). Sanding was very slow going and my normal process of using 1500 grit to knock the peel down wasn't cutting it. I switched to some 800 followed by 1500 and then finishing with 3000. My gallon of M105 recently went bad so I had picked up some 3M extra cut locally since my order for M95 and Power Gloss had not arrived yet. The extra cut actually worked very well at removing the sanding marks which was surprising after having such a hard time with the sanding.

I have a 3rd of the car done now and I plan to compare M95 and Power Gloss to the 3M extra cut this weekend to see which one does a better job at removing the sanding marks on this paint type. I should have a full write up next week. :props:

Rasky
 
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