Wetsanding through clear coat ?

C

chewyqc

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Hello Guys,

Thanks in advance for your time here.

Some month ago, I've buy a 2010 Lexus RX 350. It has some little scraches everywhere so I started slowly removing them.

For most of them, I was using a 3000 grit sand-paper with Megiuar's Ultimate Compound and a rotary adapter from 3M that I put on an drill.

Later on, I saw a "bigger scratch" and removed it with 2000 grit-paper. I've sanded only maybe 10 to 30 seconds there with medium pressure. I'm pretty sure i've gone through the clear coat and that I'l need to repaint. Now, before I try anything, I'd like your clues on this case. :doh:

Q. Do you think it has gone through the clear coat or it might be leftover sandmarks ?

Q. If I do a repaint "by a pro", can he repaint only this area or he'll need to repaint the whole door ?

Q. Do you guys know the average cost for this job ?

Q. Do you think I should try a last attempt w. M105-205 (only got a Griots 6'' DA and rotary adapter for a drill). :pc7424:

Here's some picture of the defect ; :dunno:

ppc4.jpg


3mwb.jpg


Thanks !

Dave
 
You burnt through 100%. Factory clear is so thin it's amazing how easy it is to burn through. 10-30 seconds on a small area with 2000 grit is asking for trouble on anything though.

You would need to get the whole door repainted most likely. I'm fuzzy on the specifics but if they were to just spot it in there would be a really nasty looking blend that would create all kinds of new issues.

Anything you do will just be making the area without clear/base larger.
 
They will have to paint that entire door AND half the panels on either side to get a perfect match

Sorry to hear this news
 
Flash Gordon said:
They will have to paint that entire door AND half the panels on either side to get a perfect match

Sorry to hear this news
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I respectfully disagree. Only part of the door will need to be painted with base coat, but the entire door will need to be recleared in order for it to be a reliable long-term repair. Painting adjacent panels will not be necessary. I speak from experience on this one. I went through much like the OP did about a month ago. Fortunately, I was able to do the repairs myself, and it turned out perfectly! The down side is that it has emboldened me a bit... LOL
 
You both may be right. Without a wider picture of the door you really can't say either way. If there is a body line to blend into then adjacent panels may not need to be painted. Color of the paint can also play a part.

OP give us a picture of the entire door.

it is pretty common to blend paint into adjacent panels but erichaley pointed out sometimes it can be avoided.
 
rmagnus said:
You both may be right. Without a wider picture of the door you really can't say either way. If there is a body line to blend into then adjacent panels may not need to be painted. Color of the paint can also play a part.

OP give us a picture of the entire door.

it is pretty common to blend paint into adjacent panels but erichaley pointed out sometimes it can be avoided.
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Agreed! If the entire door was based, then yes, blending adjacent panels would be required.
 
If you want it done right the whole panel will be need to be repaint. If you want it to look good you could have it done the other way not sure how good it will look. Cost could be anywhere between $200-400 just depends where you go and the quality of work your willing to pay for.
 
Thanks for your replies, here's picture of the whole door.

The damage is a few inches away from the driver door handle.

fdu9.jpg


Thank you!

Dave

P.S I'l try posting a picture with the sun out tomorrow.
 
gosh my only thought is why on earth would you use sandpaper for anything? Why not use the m105??? I mean damn i like scratch free/swirlf free paint too but i dont go chasing around large scratches with 2000 grit sandpaper man. Tough lesson to learn. Not easy on the wallet either :/
 
I can't tell from the picture...it looks like you went through the clear...but it could also just be sanding marks. When you wet sand with 2000 it is going to make the paint look really dull. Is it just dull or can you actually see the different layers in the paint?? If it's just dull try polishing.
 
DaveT435 said:
I can't tell from the picture...it looks like you went through the clear...but it could also just be sanding marks. When you wet sand with 2000 it is going to make the paint look really dull. Is it just dull or can you actually see the different layers in the paint?? If it's just dull try polishing.
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He did say last attempt with 105/205..that to me sounds like he has tried buffing it out and still looks like the photo.
 
I've not tried yet with m105, this product is not available here so I had to order it online. Will probably receive it in about one week. I can see another layer of color I think.
 
chewyqc said:
I've not tried yet with m105, this product is not available here so I had to order it online. Will probably receive it in about one week. I can see another layer of color I think.
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Hope it's not primer because the next layer is metal.
 
Do you have any kind of compound? If so, you can lightly compound to see if any gloss appears. If your pad shows color, your down to the base coat and a repaint is in order.
 
Yes you not only sanded through the clear but the base coat as well. What you are seeing in the center is the factory sealer, then the base and that milky ring is the edge of the clear. How much that will cost to have repaired will vary depending on your area. The shop should be able to blend the base over that area and slightly beyond it and will then clear the entire panel. If you were using sand paper on your rotary adapter that is going to be your biggest mistake, that will blast through paint very quickly. Unfortunately Lexus/Toyota paint is pretty thin to begin with.
 
R.A.S. WY said:
Yes you not only sanded through the clear but the base coat as well. What you are seeing in the center is the factory sealer, then the base and that milky ring is the edge of the clear. How much that will cost to have repaired will vary depending on your area. The shop should be able to blend the base over that area and slightly beyond it and will then clear the entire panel. If you were using sand paper on your rotary adapter that is going to be your biggest mistake, that will blast through paint very quickly. Unfortunately Lexus/Toyota paint is pretty thin to begin with.
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Did you see how heavy the metallic is in that paint? Will take some skill to blend that in.
 
Rsurfer said:
Did you see how heavy the metallic is in that paint? Will take some skill to blend that in.
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I did, however you would be surprised at how well those darker greys/metallic blacks will blend. I would recommend taking the vehicle to a shop that has a good reputation for quality and not just go for the lowest estimate.:xyxthumbs:
 
If you resize the first image from the first post it almost looks like you can see some metal flake underneath it all. I would try compounding/polishing that area and see what happens but I wouldn't expect too much out of it. Sometimes what you can learn from a mistake is worth more then the cost of fixing it.
 
To me it looks more like sandpaper marks and not burn through. Use a proper machine and compound the area and then polish.
 
HardLineDetail said:
To me it looks more like sandpaper marks and not burn through. Use a proper machine and compound the area and then polish.
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I dunno, I go with what some of the others have said, that's through the clear and the base to the primer. I hope I'm wrong.
 
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