WG Finishing Glaze

Bunky

Bunky

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i finally had a chance to use my WG Finishing Glaze as I was prepping the car for the winter season. The labeling on the bottle says use a finishing pad (LC black?) and it is a pure polish.

I tested in on two panels. I placed 3 pea sized blobs on the pad and worked in multiple directions slowly. It never went clear. I did at least 4 passes in each direction (NS/EW) running at speed 4 on the UDM, 5-in black LC CCS finishing pad using light pressure (about 7-10lbs - more to keep the pad flat). I saw very light dusting.

After rechecking the AG web site, it looks like it should not really go clear. True?

It did not remove some light swirls that I was checking on how much correction it could do. The paint surface was in decent shape so I did not see much gloss improvement but more what you would expect from a paint cleaner.

So, did I work it long enough or is it like Optimum to work it until you are happy. Did I use the right pad, speed, etc. How does WG compare to 106FF or 106FA? I was looking for slightly more cut.

Comments?
 
It is indeed a finishing polish and much like Nano polish. It does go quite light but some light buffing needed to remove final product once flashed from original liquid form.
 
Try stepping up to a white pad with it. Just keep in mind that it is a finishing polish and is not intended for anything more than the lightest swirl and haze removal.
 
Thanks.

The reason I ask about 106FF/FA is that I was wondering if I needed something between WG TSR and FG. Using the AG Menzerna cut chart, I assume TSR is cut 3.5 and FG was around cut 2.5. I expected more but I only had a chance to do two tries before having to do other things.
 
I have been told and seen the two Wolfgang 3.0 polishes work the same as Menzerna SIP/Nano combo.
 
I ended up using the WG TSR to see what it could do. I had started with a white pad but I did not really see great results so I switched to a LC Green (the one between orange and white) and it really worked. I guess the paint is harder than I thought but got about 90% of the scratches and swirls out.

With TSR and the green pad (less of an issue with white), I had some difficulty finding the right amount of polish since I got dusting. If I used less than 3 small blobs, it just did not seem to spread evenly. I am wondering if I need to clean the pads after a few panels.

With the Finishing Glaze, I was using way too much (instructions say 3 small stripes) but I ended up just needing a pea size blob per section to get it to almost dry to a slight haze. If I could swipe it fairly cleanly (oily if not), I considered it worked down. My untrained eyes and not great lighting did not see a significant difference after using the FG after TSR. TSR alone seemed LSP ready.

Long day.
 
I went back and did a search here and Autopia. I guess I missed the suggestion to spritz the pad with water when using WG TSR to keep down the dust. I think the pad was clogging up and that was the source of most of my dusting issues. It did seem to work consistently despite the dust...never more than 4 to 5 passes using a normal slow polishing rate before TSR seems to dry out.
 
The polish won't be 100% clear, but will be noticeably transparent when it is fully worked. A good example of this is in Blkyukon's video here - [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yht1uHJLNlQ]YouTube - Flex XC 3401 VRG vs. Porter Cable 7424[/video]

As mentioned, 106/SIP will have the same cutting properties as FG/TSR, but longer working times will result in a slightly finer finish. This is probably why you saw TSR end up LSP-ready, although on softer finishes it will leave a noticeable haze.
 
Thanks for posting the vid, I can see what you mean
 
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