WG two step wash and wax.

[Ted S.]

I've been considering putting up somewhat of a review if the weather is on my side. I've ordered a few products, WG Vinyl & Rubber Protectant, WG Auto Bathe (still have half of one left, but BOGO won't last forever!), and a sample of the WG Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant. I know the paint is really bad (swirls, gouges, and some fiberglass that I haven't finished, the whole nine yards) but I might see what the soap and wax can do in combination. Sound Good?

 

[BobbyG]

I've been considering putting up somewhat of a review if the weather is on my side. I've ordered a few products, WG Vinyl & Rubber Protectant, WG Auto Bathe (still have half of one left, but BOGO won't last forever!), and a sample of the WG Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant. I know the paint is really bad (swirls, gouges, and some fiberglass that I haven't finished, the whole nine yards) but I might see what the soap and wax can do in combination. Sound Good?

Wash and wax are just that.

Washing will clean the surface and wax will give the paint some protection and brighten it up a bit. Neither of these will correct swirls and things like gouges and raw fiberglass need to be finished professionally.

 

[cobalt9123]

Wash and wax are just that.

Washing will clean the surface and wax will give the paint some protection and brighten it up a bit. Neither of these will correct swirls and things like gouges and raw fiberglass need to be finished professionally.

Agreed.

And I'd also suggest that you clay the surface after washing the car if you're going to be waxing it. The wax will not do anything for the swirls unless it contains fillers and that will only be a temporary solution.

Good luck :xyxthumbs:

 

[Ted S.]

I'm doing it just to pass some time. know it won't cover anything up. I'm going to take care of the swirls, gouges and the fiberglass this summer when I have the money to get the paint, sandpaper and other compounds. I've got a lot of paint repair to do! I'll probably finish the fiberglass next month.:xyxthumbs:

 

[cobalt9123]

I'm doing it just to pass some time. know it won't cover anything up. I'm going to take care of the swirls, gouges and the fiberglass this summer when I have the money to get the paint, sandpaper and other compounds. I've got a lot of paint repair to do! I'll probably finish the fiberglass next month.:xyxthumbs:

Sounds like a plan but you definitely want to clay between washing and waxing that way you don't accidentally instill some swirls into the paint that you have to get rid of next month

 

[Ted S.]

Sounds like a plan but you definitely want to clay between washing and waxing that way you don't accidentally instill some swirls into the paint that you have to get rid of next month

I really need to get some. I can't afford any right now. (cause school is just the greatest) I'll be sure to have some on my next order to AG, because I would really like to try DP.

Any brand suggestions for claybar & lube?
Feed back please

 

[cobalt9123]

I really need to get some. I can't afford any right now. (cause school is just the greatest) I'll be sure to have some on my next order to AG, because I would really like to try DP.

Any brand suggestions for claybar & lube?
Feed back please

Personally, I use Clay Magic blue clay or Clay Magic red clay for badly contaminated cars -- neither of which Autogeek sells -- with Optimum No Rinse as lube (AG does sell).

However, in close second is Mother's California Gold Clay bar. That is what I would get if I were you.

Mothers California Gold Clay Bar - Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System, detailing clay bar, 2 clay bars

You'll hear your ups and downs about it, but for general contamination it will suit you just fine. Also, that kit includes everything you need to clay your car twice, or two cars once -- 2 clay bars, one microfiber, and the showtime detailer as lube. The included microfiber is pretty good also and will be plenty safe on your paint. The Showtime detailer smells great -- like cinnamon -- and really makes claying a "pleasure", since you're doing this for fun rops:

 

[Ted S.]

I might go with mothers now that you've mentioned it. But I think by the time I get around to buying I might need enough clay for 3 vehichles. Think 3 cars will squeeze out of those two bars?

 

[Ted S.]

I might go with mothers now that you've mentioned it. But I think by the time I get around to buying I might need enough clay for 3 vehichles. Think 3 cars will squeeze out of those two bars?

Wait, I think you mentioned one bar will do 2 cars?

 

[cobalt9123]

Wait, I think you mentioned one bar will do 2 cars?

It's really completely dependent upon the contamination level the cars have.

I've used 3 bars on one car, and I've used a half of a bar on one car. The more contamination, the more clay you'll use.

If the paint feels like very rough sand paper it may take 2 bars to do the whole car. If it feels sort of smooth it should only take 1/2-1 bar.

Either way, it is worth it for you to replace the bar when you can no longer knead the clay to an uncontaminated side.

If you continue to use a soiled clay bar, you'll basically be rubbing your paint with sand paper.

 

[dad07]

I might go with mothers now that you've mentioned it. But I think by the time I get around to buying I might need enough clay for 3 vehichles. Think 3 cars will squeeze out of those two bars?

You can buy them otc so if you need more its easy to pick some up.

 

[Ted S.]

I may do a bit more research before I make a purchase. XMT and DP have some very enticing offerings.

 

[PPLd]

How does the Mother's clay bar compare with the Meguiar's white clay bar?
Both of them are products designed for the general public...
Which one is softer?
Which one remove contaminants better?

 

[A4 1.8tqm]

IMO you can get much more use out of a clay bar than one car. It really depends on the amount of contamination, of course.

To save on clay I separate it into pieces and designate one piece to the dirtier areas (pretty much below the knee) and another piece for the crucial big flat sections (i.e. hood, trunk lid, top half of doors). That way only one piece gets really bad, then the cleaner piece gets "demoted" to the dirty areas next time.

Just get the most cost effective clay you can find, for the most part they are the same (within each respective aggressiveness level, fine, med., and aggresive). Pinnacle ultra-poly is fine, I think the rest is med. grade.

 

[Bunky]

How does the Mother's clay bar compare with the Meguiar's white clay bar?
Both of them are products designed for the general public...
Which one is softer?
Which one remove contaminants better?

I did side by side comparisons and could not say one did better than the other in terms of cleaning. Mothers seemed more pliable but not much.

I had used Mothers because it offered more clay for they money (think Meg's upped their clay size) and preferred Showtime (great scent).

 

[cobalt9123]

How does the Mother's clay bar compare with the Meguiar's white clay bar?
Both of them are products designed for the general public...
Which one is softer?
Which one remove contaminants better?

See Bunky's post below:

I did side by side comparisons and could not say one did better than the other in terms of cleaning. Mothers seemed more pliable but not much.

I had used Mothers because it offered more clay for they money (think Meg's upped their clay size) and preferred Showtime (great scent).

I concur with his conclusion. Except I will add from my experience the Mother's clay is much more pliable and easier to work with. Meguiar's gets very tacky and hard to knead after a while. As stated by Bunky, they are both about the same in terms of removal of contamination.

 

[Ted S.]

Anyone use griot's, DP, or XMT?