zmcgovern45
New member
- Sep 5, 2012
- 3,443
- 0
This 2002 M3 was purchased fairly recently by it's owner and was in need of a great deal of work.
The exterior of the car was in need of the most work. It was covered with swirls, RIDS (random isolated deep scratches), rock chips, clear coat etching, water spots... you get the picture. The car was washed with a concentrated mixture of citrus wash to help remove any protection that was still on the surface. Next, the car was decontaminated with clay... this was one of the most severely contaminated cars I have dealt with. When performing the "plastic baggie test" it felt like 500 grit sandpaper. After clay, I proceeded to tape off any trim or external features that may be prone to damage during the polishing phase. Next, I carried out a series of test spots on the hood of the car until I found a process that I was happy with. I was not after 100% correction, as this is not a show car. I wanted to find a 2 step process that would remove moderate defects and still allow me to finish down with only 1 finishing step. I would say overall correction was around 85%, which is typically a bit lower than a 2 step process usually yields, but this car was covered with pretty severe defects that simply were not worth chasing after since this is a daily driver and has very soft clear coat. After correction, the paint was coated with a layer of glaze, sealant, wax, and then a final wipe down with spray sealant. The results are an incredibly glossy, clear finish. A HUGE improvement from what I had started with. The pictures can attest to that!
Process
Exterior
Wheels: P21S Wheel Gel
Tires: Tuff Shine Tire Cleaner
Wash: CG Citrus Wash and Gloss (diluted to strip previous protection)
Dry: DI Waffle Weave Towels
Clay: Opti-Eraser (Heavy) on horizontal surfaces, Fine Grade Clay on Vertical Surfaces
Paint Thickness Readings Taken
Compound: Menzerna FG 400 with Microfiber Cutting Disc (M105 + Surbuf Pad used on Heavy defects on hood)... Pads prepped with CG Polishing Pad Conditioner
Polish: Menzerna SF4500 with LC Crimson Pad
IPA Wipedown (Diluted at approx. 13%)
Glaze: CG EZ Creme Glaze
Sealant: Menzerna Power Lock
Wax: Menzerna Color Lock
Final Wipe: CG V7
Tires: Dressed with Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
Exhaust Tips: CG Metal Polish + Protection
Glass: Invisible Glass
Interior
Vacuum Entire Interior
Leather Wiped down with Meguiar's Leather Cleaner + Conditioner
Dash and Trim wiped down with 303 Aerospace Protectant
CG Stripper Scent used as Air Freshener
Glass: Invisible Glass
Engine
Entire engine bay sprayed down with Meguiar's D103 (diluted 10:1)
Scrubbed with various brushes
Rinsed and wiped clean
Dried with MF Towels
Metal was polished with CG Metal Polish + Protection
Engine Covers and Plastic Covers were dressed with 303 and/or CG Back to Black
Total Time Invested: Approximately 13 Hours
Before
^From a distance and in low light, it doesn't look too bad
^Upon closer inspection, you can see that the paint was quite dirty
^The wheels were pretty dirty as well
During
^Wheel cleaner going to work. Releasing the built up brake dust and dirt that covered the wheels.
^After washing I was not surprised to find left over polish or wax in just about every crack and crevice.
^ You can see more left over wax or polish, as well as some of the swirls on the hood. They were very easy to see even without proper lighting.
^Opti-Eraser (heavy) used to decontaminate the hood, as it was in terrible shape. It felt like rubbing your hand over sand paper.
^Clay was used on the vertical panels, as they were not as bad as the horizontal surfaces, but they were obviously still quite contaminated.
^This close up picture reveals the true condition of the hood. It was a disaster. RIDS and Swirls everywhere
^Even without direct lighting, you can easily make out the swirls everywhere
^Every panel looked like this, or w
^Severe road rash/rock chips in front of the rear wheels... no way to fix that with polish
^Car is taped up and ready for testing on the hood.
^After a few combinations, I settled on my correction process. You can obviously see the improvement! This close up shot allows you to fully appreciate the change in color after correction. The paint is now a deep black instead of the oxidized greyish black that it was previously.
^50/50 Hood
[video=youtube_share;dWk4m4ViEZM&list=UUYYkJ7ziLLPtmrrESuYUoPw&index=1"]M3 50/50 After Paint Correction - YouTube[/video]
^50/50 Hood
^After compounding there were still some heavy scratches that remained, so I needed to use a more aggressive 3 step process on this central part of the hood. M105+Surbuf Pads were used to remove these scratches.
^Hood after compounding. You can tell it has a slight haze to it. This is to be expected after compounding, which is why it must be followed up with a finishing polish.
^Fender Before
^Fender After
^Door Before
^Door 50/50 - You can see that plenty of deeper scratches remained, however it is not reasonable to chase after all of these deeper scratches on a 12 year old car that is used as a daily driver. The improvement is still amazing!
^Door after compounding
The exterior of the car was in need of the most work. It was covered with swirls, RIDS (random isolated deep scratches), rock chips, clear coat etching, water spots... you get the picture. The car was washed with a concentrated mixture of citrus wash to help remove any protection that was still on the surface. Next, the car was decontaminated with clay... this was one of the most severely contaminated cars I have dealt with. When performing the "plastic baggie test" it felt like 500 grit sandpaper. After clay, I proceeded to tape off any trim or external features that may be prone to damage during the polishing phase. Next, I carried out a series of test spots on the hood of the car until I found a process that I was happy with. I was not after 100% correction, as this is not a show car. I wanted to find a 2 step process that would remove moderate defects and still allow me to finish down with only 1 finishing step. I would say overall correction was around 85%, which is typically a bit lower than a 2 step process usually yields, but this car was covered with pretty severe defects that simply were not worth chasing after since this is a daily driver and has very soft clear coat. After correction, the paint was coated with a layer of glaze, sealant, wax, and then a final wipe down with spray sealant. The results are an incredibly glossy, clear finish. A HUGE improvement from what I had started with. The pictures can attest to that!
Process
Exterior
Wheels: P21S Wheel Gel
Tires: Tuff Shine Tire Cleaner
Wash: CG Citrus Wash and Gloss (diluted to strip previous protection)
Dry: DI Waffle Weave Towels
Clay: Opti-Eraser (Heavy) on horizontal surfaces, Fine Grade Clay on Vertical Surfaces
Paint Thickness Readings Taken
Compound: Menzerna FG 400 with Microfiber Cutting Disc (M105 + Surbuf Pad used on Heavy defects on hood)... Pads prepped with CG Polishing Pad Conditioner
Polish: Menzerna SF4500 with LC Crimson Pad
IPA Wipedown (Diluted at approx. 13%)
Glaze: CG EZ Creme Glaze
Sealant: Menzerna Power Lock
Wax: Menzerna Color Lock
Final Wipe: CG V7
Tires: Dressed with Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
Exhaust Tips: CG Metal Polish + Protection
Glass: Invisible Glass
Interior
Vacuum Entire Interior
Leather Wiped down with Meguiar's Leather Cleaner + Conditioner
Dash and Trim wiped down with 303 Aerospace Protectant
CG Stripper Scent used as Air Freshener
Glass: Invisible Glass
Engine
Entire engine bay sprayed down with Meguiar's D103 (diluted 10:1)
Scrubbed with various brushes
Rinsed and wiped clean
Dried with MF Towels
Metal was polished with CG Metal Polish + Protection
Engine Covers and Plastic Covers were dressed with 303 and/or CG Back to Black
Total Time Invested: Approximately 13 Hours
Before
^From a distance and in low light, it doesn't look too bad
^Upon closer inspection, you can see that the paint was quite dirty
^The wheels were pretty dirty as well
During
^Wheel cleaner going to work. Releasing the built up brake dust and dirt that covered the wheels.
^After washing I was not surprised to find left over polish or wax in just about every crack and crevice.
^ You can see more left over wax or polish, as well as some of the swirls on the hood. They were very easy to see even without proper lighting.
^Opti-Eraser (heavy) used to decontaminate the hood, as it was in terrible shape. It felt like rubbing your hand over sand paper.
^Clay was used on the vertical panels, as they were not as bad as the horizontal surfaces, but they were obviously still quite contaminated.
^This close up picture reveals the true condition of the hood. It was a disaster. RIDS and Swirls everywhere
^Even without direct lighting, you can easily make out the swirls everywhere
^Every panel looked like this, or w
^Severe road rash/rock chips in front of the rear wheels... no way to fix that with polish
^Car is taped up and ready for testing on the hood.
^After a few combinations, I settled on my correction process. You can obviously see the improvement! This close up shot allows you to fully appreciate the change in color after correction. The paint is now a deep black instead of the oxidized greyish black that it was previously.
^50/50 Hood
[video=youtube_share;dWk4m4ViEZM&list=UUYYkJ7ziLLPtmrrESuYUoPw&index=1"]M3 50/50 After Paint Correction - YouTube[/video]
^50/50 Hood
^After compounding there were still some heavy scratches that remained, so I needed to use a more aggressive 3 step process on this central part of the hood. M105+Surbuf Pads were used to remove these scratches.
^Hood after compounding. You can tell it has a slight haze to it. This is to be expected after compounding, which is why it must be followed up with a finishing polish.
^Fender Before
^Fender After
^Door Before
^Door 50/50 - You can see that plenty of deeper scratches remained, however it is not reasonable to chase after all of these deeper scratches on a 12 year old car that is used as a daily driver. The improvement is still amazing!
^Door after compounding
rops:
Yikes it was in bad shape!
