What CCS Pad/Speed?

[geoffbcvt]

Hey guys,

I've got a few quick questions in regards to the CCS pads and the SSR product line.

I'm looking to remove some major scratches/spider webbing/swirls from the paint on my truck. I have a 98 Dakota R/T Black. I tried using the SSR 3/2.5/1 then put on the Klasse AIO followed up with the Glaze. It did work, but I could still see most of the major imperfections, the small ones were faint. I feel as though I'm not using the correct pad/speed for each product. Here's what I plan on doing:

1) SSR-3 with CCS Orange Pad
2) SSR-2.5 with CCS Pink Pad
3) SSR-1 with CCS Green Pad
4) Klasse AIO with CCS Red Pad
5) Klasse Glaze with CCS Gold Pad
6) Finish with Zymol Concours Glaze (apply by hand)

Does this seem like the right pads for the products i'll be using? What about the speed for each product? What speed should I be using on these products? I'll be using my PC7424XP.

 

[Just02896]

Orange CCS pad
Menzerna FG400
And full speed ahead with a PC DA.

Follow up with a white pad and Menz SF4000 for a glass smooth finish!

 

[inDetail]

It's more about the paint. It's trial and error. You need to do a test spot first and see which compounds/polishes/pad combos gives you the best results on the particular paint you are working on. Always pick a spot with the worst damage. Always start with the least evasive method possible. Once you remove clear coat it's gone. If the defects are too deep then wet sanding or a heavier cut compound and pad combo may be needed.

You may need to step up to a yellow cutting then orange pad for the deeper defects and finish with the white for polishing. On the deeper defects you may want to spot compound those areas only. No need to use an heavy compound and pad on an area that does not have deep defects.

You are using an AIO and polishing compounds so your steps may be conflicting. AIO will clean(usually with a solvent), polish and seal your paint. So you might be marring the paint you corrected with the SSR's.

The other conflict I see is your putting a glaze over the AIO. Traditional glaze normally is a fine polish that burnishes and back fills in light scratches so you don't need to put it on top of an AIO which already sealed the paint. Klasse Glaze is called a glaze but in lay men's terms it's really a sealant.
You want to Compound>Polish>Glaze>Seal>Wax.
Speed wise prime the pad and spread product at 1 then polish at a 5 maybe a 6. Applying sealants and glazes 1-3. Use 9lbs of pressure on the polisher including polisher weight when polishing less when your applying glazes and sealants you can let the weight of the machine do the work.
Based on the info given this would be things to think about. Every polish/pad combo is going to do different things to different paints. Follow the product guidelines.
The best advice I ever got. Go to the junk yard and get a hood from a car and practice on that.
Anyone else care to chime in on this and help this fellow Geek out. Feel free to correct anything I may have stated or clarify it further.

 

[Bunky]

The SSR-3 is a supposedly an aggressive polish and used properly should make a significant dent in the swirls but left marring from the polish. I would suggest you are moving the machine too fast, not working it enough, and use a smaller work area. Get a test spot right first.

BTW. As an owner of a 1997 Dakota, the clear coat is super thin so be careful. I had to get mine repainted after clear coat failure once a detailer polished it...actually what got me into detailing ! You may want to get the paint thickness checked.

 

[geoffbcvt]

It's more about the paint. It's trial and error. You need to do a test spot first and see which compounds/polishes/pad combos gives you the best results on the particular paint you are working on. Always pick a spot with the worst damage. Always start with the least evasive method possible. Once you remove clear coat it's gone. If the defects are too deep then wet sanding or a heavier cut compound and pad combo may be needed.

You may need to step up to a yellow cutting then orange pad for the deeper defects and finish with the white for polishing. On the deeper defects you may want to spot compound those areas only. No need to use an heavy compound and pad on an area that does not have deep defects.

You are using an AIO and polishing compounds so your steps may be conflicting. AIO will clean(usually with a solvent), polish and seal your paint. So you might be marring the paint you corrected with the SSR's.

The other conflict I see is your putting a glaze over the AIO. Traditional glaze normally is a fine polish that burnishes and back fills in light scratches so you don't need to put it on top of an AIO which already sealed the paint. Klasse Glaze is called a glaze but in lay men's terms it's really a sealant.
You want to Compound>Polish>Glaze>Seal>Wax.
Speed wise prime the pad and spread product at 1 then polish at a 5 maybe a 6. Applying sealants and glazes 1-3. Use 9lbs of pressure on the polisher including polisher weight when polishing less when your applying glazes and sealants you can let the weight of the machine do the work.
Based on the info given this would be things to think about. Every polish/pad combo is going to do different things to different paints. Follow the product guidelines.
The best advice I ever got. Go to the junk yard and get a hood from a car and practice on that.
Anyone else care to chime in on this and help this fellow Geek out. Feel free to correct anything I may have stated or clarify it further.

So Klasse is meant to be applied with the SG then AIO? I always thought it was the other way around.

I like that idea of going to get a hood to try it on. I know the paint on this truck looks neglected. I can almost guarantee that the two previous owners never waxed/polished it. The fact of the clear coat being removed it what scares me the most. The clear coat is known to peel on the hood and top of the cab. Those are the areas that I try to avoid the most abrasive compounds. Maybe I'll skip the SSR3 with the Orange Pad and just try the 2.5 with the Pink Pad.

 

[geoffbcvt]

The SSR-3 is a supposedly an aggressive polish and used properly should make a significant dent in the swirls but left marring from the polish. I would suggest you are moving the machine too fast, not working it enough, and use a smaller work area. Get a test spot right first.

BTW. As an owner of a 1997 Dakota, the clear coat is super thin so be careful. I had to get mine repainted after clear coat failure once a detailer polished it...actually what got me into detailing ! You may want to get the paint thickness checked.

The ever so wonderful clear coat cancer! It's showing on the top of the cab right now. I'm not sure about the clear coat in the other areas of the truck. From what I read is that it was just on the hood and top of the cab. I'll just start with the 2.5 on the pink pad and see where that gets me.

 

[BFEHB]

So Klasse is meant to be applied with the SG then AIO? I always thought it was the other way around.

You are correct you would apply the AIO and then the SG. With Klasse products you can easily apply them both by hand, although you can use the DA with the AIO. I would apply the SG by hand.

 

[geoffbcvt]

You are correct you would apply the AIO and then the SG. With Klasse products you can easily apply them both by hand, although you can use the DA with the AIO. I would apply the SG by hand.

Applying the AIO by DA was fairly easy before. First time I tried applying the SG by DA didn't seem to bad, except for the fact that I applied it too heavy. What a workout that was to get it off. I never realized how finicky this stuff was until I tried it.