What ceramic coatings do you recommend? First time trying it?

[BudgetPlan1]

I know many suggest Mckees as the ideal coating for a first time user. But I actually found it difficult to work with compared to many others I've tried. If you do use it I'd suggest spraying it on a suede cloth (wrapped around an applicator) and applying it like a traditional coating. Spraying directly on the panel like the directions indicate causes a mess of overspray which creates a lot of headaches when you're dealing with a coating. Now that it's on my car I find it's performing quite well (been on for about 5 months). But in terms of ease of use there are several out there I'd put ahead of it.

That's pretty much how I use it. I've also found a few that are easier to apply, tough to beat the cost/benefit of McKees though.

 

[Ronin47]

This is precisely why I only use products from “manufacturers” themselves, CarPro,GTechniq,Polish Angel etc.

 

[Desertnate]

I know many suggest Mckees as the ideal coating for a first time user. But I actually found it difficult to work with compared to many others I've tried. If you do use it I'd suggest spraying it on a suede cloth (wrapped around an applicator) and applying it like a traditional coating. Spraying directly on the panel like the directions indicate causes a mess of overspray which creates a lot of headaches when you're dealing with a coating. Now that it's on my car I find it's performing quite well (been on for about 5 months). But in terms of ease of use there are several out there I'd put ahead of it.

Interesting you had so many issues. I found it easier to apply than most sealants or waxes I've used. Did you use the new formula or the old?

To avoid a mess, I'd spray it in the middle of the area I wanted to apply and then spread it around with the LC foam coating applicator. For small areas like A/B/C pillars or the area between headlights and the grill, I'd spray the applicator directly and spread it that way to prevent any over spray. Both methods kept the coating off mirrors, trim, windows, etc where I didn't want the coating.

 

[C5Longhorn]

Interesting you had so many issues. I found it easier to apply than most sealants or waxes I've used. Did you use the new formula or the old?

To avoid a mess, I'd spray it in the middle of the area I wanted to apply and then spread it around with the LC foam coating applicator. For small areas like A/B/C pillars or the area between headlights and the grill, I'd spray the applicator directly and spread it that way to prevent any over spray. Both methods kept the coating off mirrors, trim, windows, etc where I didn't want the coating.

This has been my experience as well. I found it easier to apply than Wolfgang Uber. I think it also helped that I was more familiar with a coating where as applying WG Uber was my first time.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[BadgerRivFan]

IMHO anything that comes in a spray bottle is not a true ceramic coating, but more of a sealant, regardless of containing some amount of SiO2 or similar substance. Don't get me wrong - they work fine, but you can't expect neither durability nor the physical protection from them, that a true ceramic coating, like CarPro CQuartz, Gyeon MOHS, Gtechniq Exo or Sonax CC, can offer. They (ie. spray SiO2 sealants/coatings) provide a great shine, some chemical resistance and a fair amount of water repellency - but most of their properties diminish fairly quickly, and they do not last beyond a few months. They're however easier and faster to apply, and require less preparation, than true ceramic coatings.

Interesting that you mention Sonax CC as one of your "true ceramic coatings..." This coating uses an aerosol spray delivery system. It does not claim 2-3 years durability though, so I guess it's not a "true" coating.

SONAX CC36 Ceramic Coating

We used this coating at the Mike Phillips training class I attended last summer. It was easy to apply and would be suitable for a first time coating user.

 

[boomdone]

Interesting you had so many issues. I found it easier to apply than most sealants or waxes I've used. Did you use the new formula or the old?

To avoid a mess, I'd spray it in the middle of the area I wanted to apply and then spread it around with the LC foam coating applicator. For small areas like A/B/C pillars or the area between headlights and the grill, I'd spray the applicator directly and spread it that way to prevent any over spray. Both methods kept the coating off mirrors, trim, windows, etc where I didn't want the coating.

I used the new version (v2). I'm going to use it again in the spring to see if I have better luck. I found it very difficult to remove. Almost syrup-like in its removal. It was cool in my garage though (~58 degrees) so I want to see if I apply it in ~70 degree weather it might go on better. I also thought it had a very strong smell so I'd recommend a respirator if working in a closed environment.

 

[drlib]

I did the Wolfgang Uber, just a lot of time to prep is the key with any of them. I live in NW Fl and was a cool 60's in January when I did it

View attachment 62303

 

[Desertnate]

I used the new version (v2). I'm going to use it again in the spring to see if I have better luck. I found it very difficult to remove. Almost syrup-like in its removal. It was cool in my garage though (~58 degrees) so I want to see if I apply it in ~70 degree weather it might go on better. I also thought it had a very strong smell so I'd recommend a respirator if working in a closed environment.

Ahh. You aren't the first person to say that about V2 of the coating. My experience was with the original formula which was shockingly easy to apply. If more people like you start having trouble with V2, I might not recommend it any longer. My experiences won't be a fair comparison due to the reformulation of the product.

 

[Ancient1]

I would say CSL. It is a true wipe on wipe off no waiting for it to flash and can be done in quite low temps. In the last year I have done seven with CSL but all but one has been topped with Exo and the one that wasn't I haven't seen but the rest are looking good a year later.

 

[itsgn]

Interesting that you mention Sonax CC as one of your "true ceramic coatings..." This coating uses an aerosol spray delivery system.

That's the "watered down" US version. The original European and the UK versions come with the base coat in a drop/pour bottle - obviously for a reason. It also has a completely different consistency and thickness than the spray bottle coatings in question here, and uses a multi-coat approach. The product in its solved/fluid form is thicker, and layers thicker than the other spray coatings mentioned here.

It does not claim 2-3 years durability though

Can you guess what the 36 in the CC36 name means? .... Exactly.

 

[The Guz]

That's the "watered down" US version. The original European and the UK versions come with the base coat in a drop/pour bottle - obviously for a reason. It also has a completely different consistency and thickness than the spray bottle coatings in question here, and uses a multi-coat approach. The product in its solved/fluid form is thicker, and layers thicker than the other spray coatings mentioned here.


Can you guess what the 36 in the CC36 name means? .... Exactly.

The why does Sonax have this as their German version of the coating which appears to be an aerosol version as well? I met the Sonax reps including one who works for the German side of Sonax and they mentioned to me the only difference was the prep product which is not VOC compliant and does not meet US standards.

What you posted seems to be an older version of the coating. I pulled these images straight from the Sonax website.

Here is the other version of the products sold individual.

 

[jkrig]

I would say CSL. It is a true wipe on wipe off no waiting for it to flash and can be done in quite low temps. In the last year I have done seven with CSL but all but one has been topped with Exo and the one that wasn't I haven't seen but the rest are looking good a year later.

+1 CSL is super easy, CSL & Gloss Coat win the ease of use awards for me.....but I'd give the nod to CSL for longevity/durability

 

[SWETM]

The why does Sonax have this as their German version of the coating which appears to be an aerosol version as well? I met the Sonax reps including one who works for the German side of Sonax and they mentioned to me the only difference was the prep product which is not VOC compliant and does not meet US standards.

What you posted seems to be an older version of the coating. I pulled these images straight from the Sonax website.

Here is the other version of the products sold individual.

Did they say why it's a 12 months longevity sometimes and 36 months longevity another time? To get the 36 months longevity I have read somewhere you need to use polymer net shield like reload is for carpro coatings. It's seems to be the coating in EU and US is the same.

You have it on one of your cars if I remember correctly? How is it holding up for you?

 

[The Guz]

Did they say why it's a 12 months longevity sometimes and 36 months longevity another time? To get the 36 months longevity I have read somewhere you need to use polymer net shield like reload is for carpro coatings. It's seems to be the coating in EU and US is the same.

You have it on one of your cars if I remember correctly? How is it holding up for you?

From what they told me they designed this with the professional in mind to earn them more money by having them claim a 1 year durability to have the customer come back more often rather than offering a multi-year coating where the customer may never come back.

They also mentioned that if one wants to get the 36 month longevity then they recommend using Polymer Net Shield every 6 months as they share similar characteristics. They also told me BSD can be used as a booster as well.

I have it on my daily driver and at just a little over 7 months it is doing quite well even the areas that have no toppers on it.

 

[fightnews]

From what they told me they designed this with the professional in mind to earn them more money by having them claim a 1 year durability to have the customer come back more often rather than offering a multi-year coating where the customer may never come back.

They also mentioned that if one wants to get the 36 month longevity then they recommend using Polymer Net Shield every 6 months as they share similar characteristics. They also told me BSD can be used as a booster as well.

I have it on my daily driver and at just a little over 7 months it is doing quite well even the areas that have no toppers on it.

That sounds like something I would be surprised to hear a company rep say. I noticed nobody disagreed with an earlier poster calling pa mater sealant a "coating"? Is that true it does seem like they are saying it has ceramic in it but its hard to understand the translation on their site

 

[SWETM]

Master Sealant contains both sio2 and tio2. Not more concentrated that gives you about a year. But to get you there the reseller where I live recommends Esclate Lotion to give a properly cleaned surface and 2 coats of Master Sealant. So MS I think are more a coating light as say Gyeon CanCoat.

 

[TTQ B4U]

It unavoidably has to, because to achieve a certain layer thickness when applying, the product has to have a specific density/thickness. If it's too thin, it will spread out too much, and you will need to apply dozens of layers (if that's possible at all, because the solvent might just dissolve the previous coats, when applying the new one, or reject the latter, if it has already cured) to achieve the same thickness, that you can get from a thicker solution at first application.

Most coatings like Mohs and eve Cquartz are thinner in consistency than McKees. Their method of application is irrelevant.

I will say that the Mckees sprayer system isn't the best as it does clog and become a PIA to use and keep clear.

That said I have basically transferred the product into two several Gyeon dropper style bottles and relabeled them. Much easier to use and IMO sealed up better.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 8 using Tapatalk

 

[TTQ B4U]

To the original poster, most all of today's good coatings are very very easy to apply.

I've used most all of them and can say 22Ple and Geyon Mohs are both super easy.

I'm floored by the Geyon Synco product and just completed another car this weekend.

The best thing is first-hand how I see it on my wifes SUV. this week it was covered in pollen and even sat through a mild rain shower this amplifying the mess with water spots. Ugh. No fear, it rained like a monsoon here two nights ago as we drove home from a friends house. Yesterday it looked like I had just washed it. I even went out and dressed the tires because it really looked that clean.

Syncro and the Mohs product it contains is ridiculously easy to apply and topped with Skin that is in the kit its insanely hydrophobic and self cleaning.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 8 using Tapatalk

 

[Nix]

Master Sealant contains both sio2 and tio2. Not more concentrated that gives you about a year. But to get you there the reseller where I live recommends Esclate Lotion to give a properly cleaned surface and 2 coats of Master Sealant. So MS I think are more a coating light as say Gyeon CanCoat.

MS does not contain any Sio2 or Tio2 i do not see it anywhere mentioned on their website.Its polymer based like any other sealant...You mixed up cosmic v2 with MS..