What did you do today, in regards to detailing?

Last night I went to the supermarket. Those damn lights! Exposing all the flaws in my paint LOL. I did a wash yesterday afternoon. Thought it looked flawless until the lighting in the parking lot hit it. :laughing:
 
I think I have my rinseless technique down now. Excluding wheel work, I was able to pre-rinse, wash, and dry the car in about 20 minutes. It has taken me at least a dozen or so attempts to nail this process down, but it's cake. And I like it.
I'm still too scared to even try. I think I'll plan to just keep hitting the warm days we get throughout winter. I'll fight the sun in December but I'm scared of rinseless.

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Last night I went to the supermarket. Those damn lights! Exposing all the flaws in my paint LOL. I did a wash yesterday afternoon. Thought it looked flawless until the lighting in the parking lot hit it. :laughing:
This is when I use the wife's white car. I've already settled on the fact that it's not perfect but because it's white and so hard to see anything, it is what it is... those lights are the worst (but best).

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I'm still too scared to even try. I think I'll plan to just keep hitting the warm days we get throughout winter. I'll fight the sun in December but I'm scared of rinseless.

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I know exactly how you feel. Maybe my experience will encourage you to give it a shot!

For virtually all of last year, I either gave my car a full wash or did a waterless wash. I was careful with my waterless wash technique, but sometimes I just wanted to be done with it, and I felt like I may have been hacking up the paint. As you may or may not know, the chance for marring is greater (I believe) using a waterless method.

I know what my hood looked like after polishing it.

I know I used an Auto Zone MF sponge for contact washes (not the best). I know I did a LOT of contact washes.

I know I went through at least 2 bottles of Meguiar's Ultimate Waterless Wash last year. All of this was before trying rinseless washing.

I've done 4 traditional soap and water washes this year. I've done at least 20 rinseless washes. So far as I can tell, I've seen no discernable difference in the condition of my paint since that first polish, and that to me is VERY surprising.

When I first started rinseless washing, I was extremely meticulous; I would presoak one panel, carefully wash it, then dry it. Then I would move onto the next panel.

By the time I was done, it took me just as long to do a rinseless as it did with soap and water. So what's the point?

As I started to notice that whatever I was doing seemed to be safe, I started getting a little bolder. I got the incredible idea (LOL!) to presoak the whole car, then wash it, then dry it. I haven't noticed any ill effects in doing this. So I'm a believer now.

A few thoughts...

1 - I use only distilled water for both the presoak and wash.
2 - I believe rinseless works best on a polished and protected surface.
3 - I never clean more than one panel without dunking it in the solution.
4 - I use a light touch when drying with my towel.

If I were you, try it on just one panel and see what you think. Preasoak, or don't. Wring the sponge out to "just dripping" or keep it soaked. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised if you give it a try.

Side note - I don't know enough math to figure out how much water I saved this year by going rinseless. It has to be HUNDREDS of gallons. I start with 3 gallons in my bucket and use the same water until it falls below the level of the sponge. I usually get 3-4 washes before I change the water.
 
I know exactly how you feel. Maybe my experience will encourage you to give it a shot!

For virtually all of last year, I either gave my car a full wash or did a waterless wash. I was careful with my waterless wash technique, but sometimes I just wanted to be done with it, and I felt like I may have been hacking up the paint. As you may or may not know, the chance for marring is greater (I believe) using a waterless method.

I know what my hood looked like after polishing it.

I know I used an Auto Zone MF sponge for contact washes (not the best). I know I did a LOT of contact washes.

I know I went through at least 2 bottles of Meguiar's Ultimate Waterless Wash last year. All of this was before trying rinseless washing.

I've done 4 traditional soap and water washes this year. I've done at least 20 rinseless washes. So far as I can tell, I've seen no discernable difference in the condition of my paint since that first polish, and that to me is VERY surprising.

When I first started rinseless washing, I was extremely meticulous; I would presoak one panel, carefully wash it, then dry it. Then I would move onto the next panel.

By the time I was done, it took me just as long to do a rinseless as it did with soap and water. So what's the point?

As I started to notice that whatever I was doing seemed to be safe, I started getting a little bolder. I got the incredible idea (LOL!) to presoak the whole car, then wash it, then dry it. I haven't noticed any ill effects in doing this. So I'm a believer now.

A few thoughts...

1 - I use only distilled water for both the presoak and wash.
2 - I believe rinseless works best on a polished and protected surface.
3 - I never clean more than one panel without dunking it in the solution.
4 - I use a light touch when drying with my towel.

If I were you, try it on just one panel and see what you think. Preasoak, or don't. Wring the sponge out to "just dripping" or keep it soaked. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised if you give it a try.

Side note - I don't know enough math to figure out how much water I saved this year by going rinseless. It has to be HUNDREDS of gallons. I start with 3 gallons in my bucket and use the same water until it falls below the level of the sponge. I usually get 3-4 washes before I change the water.

Appreciate the encouragement. Sounds like you have been meticulous in adjusting your process and adventuring to new methods. I have to admit I go all in or nothing...it is certainly overboard but I am convinced each time I see a new hairline scratch or imperfection, it is because I did not do my last wash with 110% effort or wiped a small haze an hour after washing vs immediately after the wash. I'll have to get over that fear but I could certainly see myself doing rinseless before waterless.

I think that I often forget that I drive on highways or through weather that causes more issues than a less than perfect red carpet wash process. I fault this forum for that. :laughing:
 
Special shout out to Chris Metcalf who stopped by to help rebuild one of my Flex Polishers and save me so much time. He also brought over a nice upgrade I couldn't resist.

Essentially a Mercedes AMG of Vacuums. A Flex VCE 44AC

VCE 44 L AC HEPA - 12 Gallon HEPA Vacuum by FLEX

A Hepa certified vacuum. The nearly silent yet 2x as powerful as any other vacuum system. So powerful it actually has a switch to turn the power down

Paired with my Tornador Velocity Vac attachment it can pull dirt from the garage floor under the car while vacuuming inside

Thanks so much Chris! Thanks too for the limited edition shirt!

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ONR 16:1 ratio. I sprayed it on heavily to really wet the surface. No streaking at all.

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I think that I often forget that I drive on highways or through weather that causes more issues than a less than perfect red carpet wash process. I fault this forum for that. :laughing:

Yeah that's a great point, before I started working from home I was tacking on at least 50 miles a day. Sometimes it's easy to overlook the fact that daily driving takes its toll!
 
Gave Mum's Qashqai an ONR wash, it was parked in some very light rain yesterday, there were little dust spots on the upper surfaces. Wiped the wheels and tyres over with ONR as well, because she managed to find the gutter again, exactly why I put slightly wider tyres on this time, then put some Autoglym Instant Tyre Dressing on them.
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Glad you liked Descale, it's earnt a place in my cabinet for similar reasons.





For those who are interested, the undiluted form of Descale measures at a pH of 3.72



How is it so effective with such a low pH

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Maintenace wash on the ZR2. This time in the hot sun. Is what it is. Hit it right after I cut the grass. That TW acrylic tire shine/coating is amazing! Soap & water only on the tires. Looks like the day I applied it last weekend.
 
Finally had a moment to wash the wife's car. Decided to use Dream Maker thanks to the most wonderfulest and dreamiest, Visitor!! It was easy to use and added some gloss on this hard to pop white Kia. Thank you Visitor!
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Helped my buddy out and did a paint correction to his 2012 Jeep, made a quick video featuring some Griots garage products

" A polished shine" - YouTube
Cool video bosko. You had me laughing when that first shot of the machine polisher came on and that beat of the music..hahaha

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Cool video bosko. You had me laughing when that first shot of the machine polisher came on and that beat of the music..hahaha

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Thanks
When I shoot at 240 frames a second for slow motion, it picks up the pulse rate of those LED lights...cool effect really.....lol
 
I know exactly how you feel. Maybe my experience will encourage you to give it a shot!

For virtually all of last year, I either gave my car a full wash or did a waterless wash. I was careful with my waterless wash technique, but sometimes I just wanted to be done with it, and I felt like I may have been hacking up the paint. As you may or may not know, the chance for marring is greater (I believe) using a waterless method.

I know what my hood looked like after polishing it.

I know I used an Auto Zone MF sponge for contact washes (not the best). I know I did a LOT of contact washes.

I know I went through at least 2 bottles of Meguiar's Ultimate Waterless Wash last year. All of this was before trying rinseless washing.

I've done 4 traditional soap and water washes this year. I've done at least 20 rinseless washes. So far as I can tell, I've seen no discernable difference in the condition of my paint since that first polish, and that to me is VERY surprising.

When I first started rinseless washing, I was extremely meticulous; I would presoak one panel, carefully wash it, then dry it. Then I would move onto the next panel.

By the time I was done, it took me just as long to do a rinseless as it did with soap and water. So what's the point?

As I started to notice that whatever I was doing seemed to be safe, I started getting a little bolder. I got the incredible idea (LOL!) to presoak the whole car, then wash it, then dry it. I haven't noticed any ill effects in doing this. So I'm a believer now.

A few thoughts...

1 - I use only distilled water for both the presoak and wash.
2 - I believe rinseless works best on a polished and protected surface.
3 - I never clean more than one panel without dunking it in the solution.
4 - I use a light touch when drying with my towel.

If I were you, try it on just one panel and see what you think. Preasoak, or don't. Wring the sponge out to "just dripping" or keep it soaked. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised if you give it a try.

Side note - I don't know enough math to figure out how much water I saved this year by going rinseless. It has to be HUNDREDS of gallons. I start with 3 gallons in my bucket and use the same water until it falls below the level of the sponge. I usually get 3-4 washes before I change the water.

What rinseless you liking and what wash media you using?


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How is it so effective with such a low pH

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Increased cleaning ability is achieved by both alkaline leaning and acidic leaning products. In addition to the pH neutral Reset and alkaline Lift, Carpro released the acidic Descale as a different take on deep cleaning and ceramic coating rejuvenation. Descale is also said to help reduced or remove water spotting as well.

As a way of explaining the cleaning ability of differing pH levels, think about along the lines of wheel cleaners. A pH neutral soap would be like an iron removing wheel cleaner, say Sonax Full Effect. A soap like Lift would be akin to P&S Brake Buster. And Descale would be like an acidic wheel cleaner, Megs Wheel Brightener for example. All three wheel cleaners "clean" wheels but approach it from different angles. Same concept when looking at products like Descale, Reset and Lift.

A recent video by Sandro described his process using a spectrum of alkaline, neutral and acidic products to attack contamination prior to a paint correction. The car was pre-treated with a pH neutral iron remover before being left to dwell, then the alkaline Carpro Lift was applied over the top of the iron remover and left to further soak, helping to remove oils and existing protection. After a rinse, he then did a contact hand wash using Capro Descale to tackle mineral deposits. The follow up clay process was then much easier and therefore safer.

Well worth watching as it makes a lot of sense when it comes to thoroughly decontaminating a vehicle prior to polishing and coatings.

Rare 15yr Old Mercedes C55 AMG Detail I Restoring & Preserving a Classic! - YouTube
 
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