What did you do today, in regards to detailing?

[Klasse Act]

Oh yeah I forgot to mention I ordered some products during the AG Flash sale the other day:

-303 Touchless Sealant. This is going to be my 2nd 32 oz bottle and it's not only a GREAT product but quite a value, 32 ounces for $25.00, a win WIN here, hopefully everyone is buying/trying and continuing to use THIS product. It has been developed, tested, made, bottled and shipped from the U.S. (Chicago to be exact). Down in the Garage, out of the sun on just washed and rinsed car, I've sprayed the entire car down with this product AND THEN rinsed away. I applied this on my wife's Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross in early April and it's still beading very well. Her car isn't washed nearly as much as mine is but this is even more of a testament to this product.

-5 of The Rag Compnies Eagle edgeless 500 GSM microfiber towels. I've been told how great these towels are, some saying even better than DPC's Jack towels, I'm going to keep an open mind. My first use of these will probably be during a WW, evaluate and then move onto during a RW. IMO these thicker edgeless mf towels provide great protection when doing a WW and its primarily what I use THESE towels for, stay "tuned".

-P&S wheel cleaner. Now based off of great, great experiences with Beadmaker and Pearl soap, I decided to step and try their wheel cleaner. I tried to buy the gallon because like all the other P&S products the gallon size offers up the BEST value but it was out of stock here, probably because it's so great. The reviews I've read have been very positive and it has an anti-rusting ingredient in it as well, we'll see how that works. If it works as good as advertised, once my CG's maintenance wheel cleaners are emptied out, I'll have a new go to for maintenance (still have Auto-Fanatic foaming wheel cleaner for the REAL dirtied rims)

Looking forward to trying the 2 of 3 new products to me

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[Eldorado2k]

It’s supposed to stop raining in a half hour...

 

[bfielder32087]

So you use the Worx hydroshot for pre-treating, do you spray down the entire car and then do one panel at a time with your soaking towels I'm kinda thinking you don't because I'd think the product would dry out by the time you got around to the other side of the car, or maybe you just spray more

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Most of the time if I pre treat with the worx I'll just hit the lower area or any area that is a bit more dirty. Just using water though I've never shot any kind of solution through the Worx. I know some people have/do but I've not. So yeah depending on the dirtiness I will pre treat with a RW solution, let dwell for a bit and rinse with the Worx. OR say if it's very dirty like in the winter time I will use Power Clean or 3D Citrus at 5•1 let dwell and rinse off before going into my RW method.

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[Klasse Act]

Most of the time if I pre treat with the worx I'll just hit the lower area or any area that is a bit more dirty. Just using water though I've never shot any kind of solution through the Worx. I know some people have/do but I've not. So yeah depending on the dirtiness I will pre treat with a RW solution, let dwell for a bit and rinse with the Worx. OR say if it's very dirty like in the winter time I will use Power Clean or 3D Citrus at 5•1 let dwell and rinse off before going into my RW method.

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Power Clean in the winter time, that weakens or even strips the protection you do have. Spraying the RW onto the car, letting it dwell to only have it rinsed off seems like a waste IMO.

Let me run this by you to see if you like the idea. For dirty cars and/or winter use. Make a slightly stronger ratio of RW and make extra, say 4-4.5 gallons of cleaning solution. Dunk your sprayer in the mix and spray the hell out of each section at a time. Then take a towel you've had soaking in the solution and clean the section/panel, rolling away the section of the towel giving you a clean section to work with, no matter how much smaller that area is, use the square fully, you have 8 of them

Thoughts....

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[bfielder32087]

Power Clean in the winter time, that weakens or even strips the protection you do have. Spraying the RW onto the car, letting it dwell to only have it rinsed off seems like a waste IMO.

Let me run this by you to see if you like the idea. For dirty cars and/or winter use. Make a slightly stronger ratio of RW and make extra, say 4-4.5 gallons of cleaning solution. Dunk your sprayer in the mix and spray the hell out of each section at a time. Then take a towel you've had soaking in the solution and clean the section/panel, rolling away the section of the towel giving you a clean section to work with, no matter how much smaller that area is, use the square fully, you have 8 of them

Thoughts....

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Power clean at the very weak dilution I use it at isn't causing too much of a problem. Products like ONR and the like are so cheap that I don't have an issue if it's a "waste"

And yes this is what I do.

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[AaronE]

"Washed" the fuel trucks today at drill. I'm half tempted to bring my detail gear with me and have at it

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[Finick]

Spraying the RW onto the car, letting it dwell to only have it rinsed off seems like a waste IMO.

Is that not exactly the same process as foaming a dirty car down only to let it dwell and rinse it? I’d think ONR would do a better job than any standard car soap would, just because it’s designed to encapsulate and break the dirt down. If I’m not mistaken I’ve seen videos where people pre treat with ONR and car soap on adjacent panels and the results are pretty much identical. optimum themselves has one:

YouTube


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[Eldorado2k]

Is that not exactly the same process as foaming a dirty car down only to let it dwell and rinse it? I’d think ONR would do a better job than any standard car soap would, just because it’s designed to encapsulate and break the dirt down. If I’m not mistaken I’ve seen videos where people pre treat with ONR and car soap on adjacent panels and the results are pretty much identical. optimum themselves has one:

YouTube


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Call me crazy, but watching that video is enough to validate my belief that a pre spray with rinseless wash solution prior to a rinseless wash is mostly unnecessary.

Why? Well besides the fact that my lsp is already going to allow the dirt to easily glide off once the soaking wet BRS comes in contact with the paint... We just saw the video and it showed how rinseless wash was equal to foam gun when both were sprayed with a pressure washer. And if you’re like me, you pretty much know that nearly all of the removal of the dirt on that pre rinse was in thanks to the pressure washer. The foam is mostly there for visual gratification and in reality it does little to nothing in regards to the removal of dirt & traffic film unless it’s physically agitated with wash media.

Yes, I know it’s not an exact comparison between a pre rinse with a power washer vs. a pre spray before a rinseless wash... But it’s close enough for it to make sense. At least it does to me.

Plus, if you read the label of Megs D114, Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash Concentrate, McKee’s N-914, etc... Nowhere on the label does it mention or even recommend doing a pre spray before the rinseless wash. If it was necessary, you’d think maybe they’d recommend it?

 

[Finick]

Call me crazy, but watching that video is enough to validate my belief that a pre spray with rinseless wash solution prior to a rinseless wash is mostly unnecessary.

Why? Well besides the fact that my lsp is already going to allow the dirt to easily glide off once the soaking wet BRS comes in contact with the paint... We just saw the video and it showed how rinseless wash was equal to foam gun when both were sprayed with a pressure washer. And if you’re like me, you pretty much know that nearly all of the removal of the dirt on that pre rinse was in thanks to the pressure washer. The foam is mostly there for visual gratification and in reality it does little to nothing in regards to the removal of dirt & traffic film unless it’s physically agitated with wash media.

Yes, I know it’s not an exact comparison between a pre rinse with a power washer vs. a pre spray before a rinseless wash... But it’s close enough for it to make sense. At least it does to me.

Plus, if you read the label of Megs D114, Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash Concentrate, McKee’s N-914, etc... Nowhere on the label does it mention or even recommend doing a pre spray before the rinseless wash. If it was necessary, you’d think maybe they’d recommend it?

Yeah I kind of sit in the same camp. The difference between rinsing my car down with my pressure washer vs my hose, worx, or doing a presoak is pretty astounding. The pressure washer just does such a good job.

Just a good thorough rinse so far has been enough that my wash mitts don’t even really pick up any dirt. Knocks all the bigger debris off, and whatever doesn’t come off probably wouldn’t have come off anyways. I think the big exception is pre wash foams from places like the UK, where they seem to be a more developed market and not just regular old car soaps being used for that purpose.

I’ll likely buy a cheapie foam cannon just to play around with foaming, but if the difference between something like ONR and a car soap is so insignificant, my 1 gallon garden sprayer can get around my car pretty quick for a presoak if I really wanted to do so .

When it really comes down to it though, I’m just interested in rinsing the car and getting to washing it. Adding more steps just seems tiresome.

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[Eldorado2k]

Yeah I kind of sit in the same camp. The difference between rinsing my car down with my pressure washer vs my hose, worx, or doing a presoak is pretty astounding. The pressure washer just does such a good job.

Just a good thorough rinse so far has been enough that my wash mitts don’t even really pick up any dirt. Knocks all the bigger debris off, and whatever doesn’t come off probably wouldn’t have come off anyways. I think the big exception is pre wash foams from places like the UK, where they seem to be a more developed market and not just regular old car soaps being used for that purpose.

I’ll likely buy a cheapie foam cannon just to play around with foaming, but if the difference between something like ONR and a car soap is so insignificant, my 1 gallon garden sprayer can get around my car pretty quick for a presoak if I really wanted to do so .

When it really comes down to it though, I’m just interested in rinsing the car and getting to washing it. Adding more steps just seems tiresome.

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Totally agree.

 

[Klasse Act]

About to get started here....

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[Klasse Act]

Using the IK Foam 9 I decided to use CG's BlackLight radiant finish carwash soap for the pre-wash

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[SWETM]

Yeah I kind of sit in the same camp. The difference between rinsing my car down with my pressure washer vs my hose, worx, or doing a presoak is pretty astounding. The pressure washer just does such a good job.

Just a good thorough rinse so far has been enough that my wash mitts don’t even really pick up any dirt. Knocks all the bigger debris off, and whatever doesn’t come off probably wouldn’t have come off anyways. I think the big exception is pre wash foams from places like the UK, where they seem to be a more developed market and not just regular old car soaps being used for that purpose.

I’ll likely buy a cheapie foam cannon just to play around with foaming, but if the difference between something like ONR and a car soap is so insignificant, my 1 gallon garden sprayer can get around my car pretty quick for a presoak if I really wanted to do so .

When it really comes down to it though, I’m just interested in rinsing the car and getting to washing it. Adding more steps just seems tiresome.

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The most effective prewash foam available on AGO I think is Gyeon Foam and gtechnic w4 citrus foam. Maybe the GG Surface Wash is more like what I call prewash foam. But even with a prewash foam or a pretreatment with a suitable degreaser. The PW is what is doing the heavy lifting with cleaning. If you use it as a cleaning tool and not like the ordinary hose rinse. And that's useing the water pressure from the PW to clean with on every part of the vehical you clean. And don't use the nozzle tip that gets you under the 1000psi that has been like a standard these days.

I have seen how your towels looks when you have done a waterless wash Eldo. Think with the favorite prewash foam I have and the PW before you do a waterless wash. You would have only a very little of that black soot and dirt you seem to have in your environment. Then if this kind of dirt don't marring your paint in the longrun it's not so important if you prewash or pretreat before contact wash. And that's is all that counts to do a safe wash. In my environment we have a lot of sand from gravel roads that gets out on the asphalt roads. And also during the winter months on some roads they use sand instead of road salt. If getting these in your wash media it's a high risk of marring and scratches from it. So by flushing them off and also desolve old rotten leaves that can trapp the sand corns is a way for a safer wash for me. Forensic Detailing Channel on Youtube released a video a couple of weeks ago with a snow foam shootout. He mentions what I think of these prewash foams/snow foams pretty much. What you do see in the video about the cleaning ability is a real difference between the different products. Also foams has no cleaning ability from just the foam. The foam ads to so it's not drying on the paint as fast and gives you a longer dwell time. Which is very important for some prewash foam to get over 5 minutes of dwell time at least and some up to 10 minutes to have a desolving ability that is effective. The winner in his test is also my favorite prewash foam. Before the prewash foam took of in popularity we did pretreat with degreasers to desolve as much as possible before the clean rinsing it off with the PW. So there are products to use as prewash without the foaming.

 

[Klasse Act]

Just about done and it looks like another CG's soap has "clogged up" my LSP which is 2 month old 303 Touchless sealant as upon rinsing off the 2BM wash netted "marginal" beading. Funny thing is when I used the CG's BlackLight for the pre-wash and rinsed it off the beading was fine, just after the 2BM wash and rinse did I notice the reduced beading.

Now I need to wipe out the jams, dry the WeatherTechs and vac out the interior. Later I'll dress the tires with something TBD.

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[Maxreed241]

Just about done and it looks like another CG's soap has "clogged up" my LSP which is 2 month old 303 Touchless sealant as upon rinsing off the 2BM wash netted "marginal" beading. Funny thing is when I used the CG's BlackLight for the pre-wash and rinsed it off the beading was fine, just after the 2BM wash and rinse did I notice the reduced beading.

Now I need to wipe out the jams, dry the WeatherTechs and vac out the interior. Later I'll dress the tires with something TBD.

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The soap clogged your LSP? It's because you used the blacklight soap on a blue car!

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[Bruno Soares]

It’s supposed to stop raining in a half hour...

Funny that weather looks better in PA than LA for once. 80 or so pretty much all week, low chance of rain but high chance of pollen.

 

[Eldorado2k]

Funny that weather looks better in PA than LA for once. 80 or so pretty much all week, low chance of rain but high chance of pollen.

High chance of pollen? It actually says that? Lol

 

[Klasse Act]

Finally done!

So I cleaned the tires and wheels, used 303 Tire and Rubber for the tires and CG's Sticky Citrus for the rims, this is after a pre-wash with CG's BlackLight radiant carwash soap, same thing I used on the car. Next was a 2BM with a mix of a couple products, CG's BlackLight radiant carwash and P&S Pearl. See what I do is when I have leftover soap in the IK Foam 9 I dump it in my carwash bucket, or I dump it in my wheel cleaning bucket, which ever needs it. After I rinsed I dried with The Sucker and moved the car to a dry parking spot for a vac.

While washing the car I took out the WeatherTechs and soaked, dwelled and scrubbed them with the same stuff I used on the car, so I dried them and vac'd out the car too. Once i was done there i reached for Mckee's fast interior and did the dash, door panels and center console and tablet-style multimedia center, I really like Mckee's fast interior detailer, VERY good product, works great on the piano black bits too, just flip the towel for a final buff.

I'm going to keep an eye on the beading in the near future as I think yet another CG's carwash soap may have clogged up my LSP. In addition to that when I last washed and mini-detailed the wife's ride i dressed the tires with 303 Tire Balm and since then, about a week or so, its rained and I've noticed that the tires turned brown, noticed this on my own car when I dressed them with 303 Tire Balm. I don't get it because it doesn't do this all the time....thoughts anyone

After her clean-up I initially dressed the tires with Soft99 BLACKBLACK, same thing I used on my car yesterday but when I moved her ride into its parking spot it needed more, so I pulled out the hammer...Gyeon Tire, BAM!

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[Klasse Act]

Is that not exactly the same process as foaming a dirty car down only to let it dwell and rinse it? I’d think ONR would do a better job than any standard car soap would, just because it’s designed to encapsulate and break the dirt down. If I’m not mistaken I’ve seen videos where people pre treat with ONR and car soap on adjacent panels and the results are pretty much identical. optimum themselves has one:

YouTube


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Well I'd say no because the carwash soaps, even used through my IK Foam 9 and not an actual foam cannon, will have the soap cling to the paint, thus letting it break things down better, I mean you can see the results in the foam on the ground, I know I did today

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[bob m]

The soap clogged your LSP? It's because you used the blacklight soap on a blue car!

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Well done and great job. Question for you - I'm assuming you are in an apartment or condo with a dedicated parking space - how the heck do you have so much or so many parking spots to detail in?