What did you do today, in regards to detailing?

Hey DFB, get yourself an IK foamer and then try the Brake Buster You'll want the gallon size of Brake Buster, ofcoarse

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Klasse Act said:
Hey DFB, get yourself an IK foamer and then try the Brake Buster You'll want the gallon size of Brake Buster, ofcoarse

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I'm assuming one of these would work as well?

 
Polished and recoated the hood on my R. Had bug guts etched into the coating and I figured I had just a wee bit of CSL and EXOV4 that needed to get used up this fall.

Hit it with Ultimate Polish and a microfiber pad followed up by an orange pad. I didn't have any compound left, but the polish worked just fine. I also removed a scratch that I didn't get when I first corrected the paint. Now I just need to be a little more diligent at removing bug guts before they etch the coating.

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With all the talk about foaming WW lately I decided to do just today with the only one I know of that's specifically market to do just that and its AMMO Frothe. My car was a weeks worth dirty and I wanted the car clean when swapping out the 3 season tire/wheel set up for the snow shoes/stock rims. I did the car and then the tires and wheels with it, better cleaning on those later this evening. When I was done I applied a coat of Beadmaker, it's almost 60 degrees here and wanted a little extra POP on such a beautiful day

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To add another item to the list.
The bottom of my hatch was rubbing on the top of the bumper, wearing the paint away on both the hatch and bumper. Apparently this is somewhat common and can be corrected by adjusting brackets behind the bumper. Unfortunately that requires removal of the bumper and I'm not sure if it's covered by the certified warranty.

I am concerned about wearing through the paint to the metal, causing rust so I hit the areas with some touch-up paint a few weeks back.

Today, I applied some Xpel door edge guard to the edge of the hatch and top of bumper where there were scuff marks.

I'm very impressed with the Xpel. It was very easy to apply and is virtually invisible. We'll see how long it lasts, but if I get a year out of it and have to reapply, I still have about 90ft left of my 100ft roll, so I could apply it once a year for the next 10 years. It was hard to get a good picture of the hatch because it blended in so well.

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Getting close to freezing temps. Nice day Saturday. Normal wash and detailed engine. Used BF engine cleaner for the first time. Nice product. Followed with Sonus motor kote.
 
Last night, while doing laundry, I cleaned up my 3 season tires/wheels. I used Griot's Garage Brilliant Shine rinseless wash mixed up as a WW for the cleaning. I washed the ES earlier in the day, so a simple wipe was all that was needed. After that I applied a coat of 303 graphene to the wheel faces and barrels, all protected for when they go back on in the spring of 2021

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The city is living up to its nickname of "The Windy City" this morning. My phone shows it being 36 degrees right now and its gotta be gusting 20 mph + winds right now. That said I decided to apply a dressing to my sponges...urrrr, Blizzaks and reached for something I couldn't remember thr last time using....Eco Touch tire dressing. I'll say it made them look good, how long before the Blizzaks pores drink it down is another thing

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I didn't realize how terrible an uncoated windshield is. This week I had a windshield replaced on the company car and a week's worth of rain on an uncoated windshield made the drive unbearable. It finally stopped raining yesterday and my two choices were Aquapel and Griots Glass Sealant. The temperature was in the high 30's so Aquapel was out. I applied two coats of Griots Glass Sealant and while I was at it, I thoroughly cleaned the inside of the glass with Invisible Glass. I had to go over certain areas twice to remove some smeared adhesive.
The guys at Safelight also messed with the position of the wiper arm. While I was in good spirits, I removed the arm and adjusted the position.
 
UncleDavy said:
I didn't realize how terrible an uncoated windshield is. This week I had a windshield replaced on the company car and a week's worth of rain on an uncoated windshield made the drive unbearable. It finally stopped raining yesterday and my two choices were Aquapel and Griots Glass Sealant. The temperature was in the high 30's so Aquapel was out. I applied two coats of Griots Glass Sealant and while I was at it, I thoroughly cleaned the inside of the glass with Invisible Glass. I had to go over certain areas twice to remove some smeared adhesive.
The guys at Safelight also messed with the position of the wiper arm. While I was in good spirits, I removed the arm and adjusted the position.
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anxiously awaiting the next car that gets the one wheel treatment from you... :D
 
Since it is raining, I did some engine bay cleaning on my girlfriend's car with Griot's Engine Cleaner and then some SONUS Trim & Motor Kote. Since the SONUS is just spray on, I was wanting a better sprayer on that. It spits a bit.
 
I was afraid of applying any type of coating until Guz encourage me to try it, if it comes wrong is not the end of the world...
So I decided to start somewhere and even that is not a paint coating I thought this might be a good first coating:
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Everything came out amazing!!!
 
gorillapr said:
I was afraid of applying any type of coating until Guz encourage me to try it, if it comes wrong is not the end of the world...
So I decided to start somewhere and even that is not a paint coating I thought this might be a good first coating:
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Why would you be afraid to apply a coating to your rims?

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10 hours worth of work.
Probably more, but the first panel I started on showed me that doing a one-step on heavily oxidized paint wasn’t happening.

Wash:

-Karcher 1700 pressure washer w/ RV water filter
-Malco Ceramic Prep wash
-Ethos Foam Party pre wash
-Nanoskin 6” clay pad on a Porter Cable DA really smoothed the paint out.


I used a combo of several products and pads:

-Xtreme Solutions LVR 369 Ice Polish & LVR 367 Trifecta AIO.
-Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound
-3D One was running low, but I did use that on some areas. A lot of scuffs were cleaned up.
-TACsystem Oil Zero
-Ethos Detox
-Griot’s Garage 3” DA machine
-FLEX XFE 15mm cordless DA
-Lake Country orange & white pads
-LSP TACsystem One Step Master
-Ethos Ceramic Wax Pro
-CarPro Perl on tires and trim
-Ethos D3FY on windows and door jambs

For a 2006 Tundra w/ 105,000 miles, I think the turn around was decent. If given no time limit, it’d look better. This was a barter detail. My friend is a guitar master, so I traded even for lessons.
Looks like I got 10 sessions racked up.

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How it could’ve gone better:

-Pads pads pads! I only used a few. It takes time to clean and blow them out after half a panel, especially with the paint oxidation. But that’s what I’ve been doing.

-A better game plan. But before I start polishing, I’m still guessing at what will work best. So the test area took awhile to determine what polishing fluids and pads to use.

-Keeping the tools and materials close by. I was better on this detail than past ones. The AutoGeek work belt keeps the microfiber towels and bottles at arms reach. I cleaned off the rolling detail cart after I was done. So for next job I can have only what’s needed right next to the vehicle.

-Deciding on an LSP is frustrating. I gravitate towards ceramic products. But have several polymers to choose from.

That’s it. Detailing is a learning process and it will get better.
 
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Spent 3 hours polishing my “hobby” after washing and clay yesterday.


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Only 3 hours on your hobby? I would have taken a day off for it.

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I washed and sealed both vehicles, partially just to prove I could do it!

The Accord was easy, is it was mostly clean to start with, and still had some protection on it. For both cars I did a rinseless wash - microfiber wash mitt, damp tRC Creature 460 towels to wipe, spritzed section with Optimum Paint Prep to remove any remaining LSP, and dried with Griots 16x16 PFM towel. Then applied Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection and let it sit while I started on the CRV.

I cleaned the roof of the CRV, then applied UPP, and let it sit (trying to be as efficient as possible with moving the work platform). Went back to remove UPP from the Accord. Then cleaned the rest of the CRV. I had not polished the front bumper, so I left that for last - cleaned & polished. Then I applied UPP to the rest of the CRV and removed it from the roof. Talked to my neighbor for a few minutes, and finally wiped off the UPP...Done in under 3 hours!

This CRV is my first white car in a long time, and I hate it! I polished the CRV over a few days (Rupes yellow wool and Keramik Gloss Fine gel quickly removed the marring from the clay towel and years of washing), but I was waiting to apply any protection. The side that had been corrected first had lots of staining from my oak trees. I got most of it off during the wash, but I hit the hood with the Rupes Keramik Gloss and a yellow foam pad to get it all off.
I guess if I keep this car for a while I will have to hit it with a cleaner-wax regularly to keep on top of the staining that shows with white paint.
 
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