What do for this scratch on new truck??

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Mrproduce

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I got a deep scratch about 1.5” on my new tundra, help on what & how to make it better... .. I attached pic of scratch and I got touch up paint. It’s on the middle of door, and truck is only 3 months old..
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If you haven't wet sanded before, don't do it. Use the OEM touch up paint and be patient. By that I mean, don't try to fill the scratch in one application. Do multiple coats waiting days between coats. The paint will shrink and that's the reason to wait before the next coat.

Do a practice run by filling and then wiping it off with alcohol/paint thinner. You will get the hang of how much paint to use and the stroke.
 
Go get some dr colorchip and toss out the OEM stuff.

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I'll concur about the Dr Colorchip as being the best "amateur" bet. Now I'm sure pros who do this sort of thing would maybe disagree, but how many of us are pros and can get perfect results with factory-type touch up paints? I can't and I've tried and tried if not many years, for literal decades. Just don't have it in me I guess.

The problem with factory-duplicolor type touch up paints is they're going to take forever and a day to dry. And then what?

On vertical panels such as doors-fenders-rear quarters-pillars and because they dry so slow, they have a tendency to sag. You have to use such small amounts, maybe apply with a toothpick. And fill and fill, but now comes even a harder part.....how do you level?

Some will say wet sand, or you can try a product like Langka Blob Remover, which I have in the past with fairly poor results.

And as for wet sanding. Yep, tried that too a few years back on my beater Kia Spectra, and went right through the clear coat on a couple places on the hood.

Dr. Colorchip while I'll admit is not going to be 100% perfect, and although is not ideally claimed to be a scratch-fix product but rather a road rash and rock chip product can and will work for such minor scratches pretty good too.

One beauty with Dr. C-Chip, is that if you don't get desired results the first time out due to not getting the hang of a bit of a learning curve, you can remove a previous attempt completely without damage to the factory paint finish.

This paint dries in just a few mere minutes, like 5-10 or so, and then when it is set-dry enough, you can begin to level, smooth, and remove excess paint outside of the damage area, and in the damage area to level the paint.

With factory touch up, you'll wait days, even weeks it seems, the paint is too soft still, and often the finished end results look absolutely horrible.

While Dr. C-Chip is not an inexpensive product, and has gotten a bit more expensive to buy at current day, it's still worth the expense IMO.

The simple Road Rash Kit, with 1/2oz Paint, and 2oz of Sealact Solution should hold you for a good while, in the event you possibly get future rock chips on the front, or hood, etc.

In fact right now, they have their 4th of July Sale, good till 7-7 by entering the word FREEDOM in the coupon area when you check out for 15% off.

(I myself just ordered a small touch up kit for my Father's VW Touareg yesterday, as he has a couple chips, and just a few days ago, side swiped the garage door and put a light scrape in his front fender lip. Not bad thankfully, I got most the damage out with some Wolfgang Uber Compound and an Applicator, and will use the Dr C-Chip to fill a couple of the deeper sleeks. )
 
Based on the pictures a simple compound and polish should fix that. No need for wet sanding or Dr. Colorchip. Just my opinion. I have compound and polished worse scratch marks
 
Wanted to add, after using Dr. Colorchip, and getting the desired end results, do not wax or seal that area for a good week to let the paint fully dry and cure.
 
Kamakaz1961 said:
Based on the pictures a simple compound and polish should fix that. No need for wet sanding or Dr. Colorchip. Just my opinion. I have compound and polished worse scratch marks
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Yes, it is very possible that you might be correct. I'd certainly be trying that first and see where that gets me.
 
Kamakaz1961 said:
Based on the pictures a simple compound and polish should fix that. No need for wet sanding or Dr. Colorchip. Just my opinion. I have compound and polished worse scratch marks
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Unless that's paint transfer (white mark) the dark base coat is gone. No amount of compound and polish will bring it back.

To the OP, is you can feel the scratch with your finer nail you will need paint.
 
Rsurfer said:
If you haven't wet sanded before, don't do it. Use the OEM touch up paint and be patient. By that I mean, don't try to fill the scratch in one application. Do multiple coats waiting days between coats. The paint will shrink and that's the reason to wait before the next coat.

Do a practice run by filling and then wiping it off with alcohol/paint thinner. You will get the hang of how much paint to use and the stroke.
Click to expand...

I agree with Rsurfer on best method and this will take time and patience. I have done this many times on my older Camry with the same type of OEM paint. Do not use that brush from the device, it puts down too much product. Go to your local arts/craft store and pickup some tiny art brushes perhaps 5/0 I think is all you need. I would take the paint stick from the tube and place a drop in a water bottle cap (easy to clean or pitch). I then took the artist brush and applied to the scratch in very thin coats. That paint dries quickly but you might try once in the morning and then later in the day. That will slowly build up the color in the scratch until you are about to the top. Then apply the clear coat from the tube in one or two touches. If a bit high you can then either hand polish or use 3000-grit automotive sandpaper IF YOU are going to compound/polish the section. Done with patience you will then have it ready for almost a perfect job when viewing it at the 3-foot rule. You as the owner will always know where they are but most will never see or appreciate your efforts to do this!

Good luck, it is only a scratch, one of many that will come as you enjoy that Tundra.
 
I use sewing needles to carefully add in my OEM paint to small scratches like that. Very minute amounts and several over 2-3 days.

Wetsand, again carefully, to smooth it all down then compound and polish. I wait about a month to then use an LSP.
 
So just need wash the area for prep before I start slowly added layers of paint? No need use anything else right.. just want make sure good bond of paint in the scratch


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Ditto on the Dr. Colorchip and save some frustration.
If you do use the touchup pen use the brush to put a blob on a piece of plastic and use a 0 artist paint brush to fill.

I am glad I bought my Dr Colorchip kit
 
No matter what kind of touch up paint, I would always use something like 70% Isopropyl Alcohol fully remove any possible waxes-sealants-etc to insure a good paint bond.
 
That is very true.
I use Kleenstrip prep-all for those duties.
 
I use mineral spirits but, yes, a thorough clean out first!
 
New paint is wayyyy too thin to risk wet sanding when stuff like Langka and Dr Colorchip exist. There is even a youtube on how to make your own Langka.
 
I have been doing professional touch up for 20 years. From the picture you posted it’s a clear coat scratch that has not penetrated the base coat. A simple test is to swipe the scratch with a solvent like a tar remover or sap remover. If the scratch disappears before the solvent evaporates. All you need is to paint a small thin bead of clear coat. I like to use 2k clear because it is a durable repair. Leveling it down requires some knowledge and skill not to remove to much surrounding clear.


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Wish I could find someone in my area fix it, when to body shop and he said they would have to take whole door off and paint it, and told me it wouldn’t be worth it and just get touch up paint and do it like you guy said, but I never done this before


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