What do I need to do this job right?

Rsufer, Meghan thank you very much for your time and answers so far!

There will be plenty more lol.
 
Rsurfer said:
Hate to disagree with you, but the least aggressive pad and polish first. Work the polish until it becomes transparent.
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Thanks for the education and I corrected my original statement.

edit:

wait... look at what poorboys said, "After using SSR2, refine the finish with SSR1. "
 
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Rat007 said:
why least aggressive first?
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I did some searching around on here and found three other veterans that basically echo’d the same thing as RSurfer, but I’d still be curious to hear from others who have experience using the SSR1 & SSR2 as a combo with the orange and white pad. Does anyone want to debate RSurfers suggestion?

Here is what PoorBoys say "After using SSR2, refine the finish with SSR1."
 
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I start out with the least aggerssive product to assess the paint damage and then adjust the process .If swirls are corrected then BINGO,if not then a more agressive product is called for. Trial and error is a great teacher. Its no use for something super aggressive to be used for minor defects or ultra soft paint.This is where experence comes in to play that you will eventually aquire through pratice.
 
I would recommend the SSR2.5 and SSR1 combo over the SSR2/SSR1 combo. The 2.5/1 can handle all sorts of damages depending on pad choice. Both are very easy to use, just like all PB products.

To find what polishes to use, you will want to test the least aggressive method first, to ensure that you'll get the maximum amount of correction that you are comfortable with, removing the least amount of clear possible. Once you work your way up the aggressiveness, you'll work your way back down again, just like wet sanding.

Over time you will develop an idea of what polish and pad compounds are capable of and the starting process won't take as long as when you are just starting out.
 
budman3 said:
I would recommend the SSR2.5 and SSR1 combo over the SSR2/SSR1 combo. The 2.5/1 can handle all sorts of damages depending on pad choice. Both are very easy to use, just like all PB products.

To find what polishes to use, you will want to test the least aggressive method first, to ensure that you'll get the maximum amount of correction that you are comfortable with, removing the least amount of clear possible. Once you work your way up the aggressiveness, you'll work your way back down again, just like wet sanding.

Over time you will develop an idea of what polish and pad compounds are capable of and the starting process won't take as long as when you are just starting out.
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Well said, Budman:righton:
 
CakeDaddy said:
I did some searching around on here and found three other veterans that basically echo’d the same thing as RSurfer, but I’d still be curious to hear from others who have experience using the SSR1 & SSR2 as a combo with the orange and white pad. Does anyone want to debate RSurfers suggestion?

Here is what PoorBoys say "After using SSR2, refine the finish with SSR1."
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PoorBoys statement is correct. No difference if you started out with ssr2.5 you can step down to ssr2 or go straight to ssr1.
 
ok everyone here is what I got rounded up on the shopping list for just the buffing. please look over and see if i missed anything.

Poorboy’s World Porter Cable 7424 Polish & Protect Kit
Poorboy’s World Black Hole Show Glaze for Dark Vehicles
Poorboy's World EX-P Pure Sealant

Im going to clay bar the truck down and I need everything after that far as sealant, polish, swirl removers, and wax. Thanks everyone for helping me out this much.
 
clay
polish
seal
glaze
wax
sounds like you got it. Are you going with nattys blue paste wax?

Oh make sure you have enough pads on hand, especially the blue and grey.
 
Yes the nattys blue paste wax comes with the kit.

whats the reason for extra pads? just asking. thanks for all ur info you have given me!
 
Having 3 or 4 pads of the same color will come in handy. You can never have too many mf's
 
Rsurfer said:
Having 3 or 4 pads of the same color will come in handy. You can never have too many mf's
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ummm hmm and espeally on a big project like a truck. I have 2 white, 2 orange,4 grey, 4 blue and 1 red. And, yes... lots micofiber towels, because if one hits the ground.....on to the next one.
 
ok guys thanks very much
I have a question about pads.
What are the white ones for, the orange ones, the grey ones, the blue ones, and the red one?
 
Rat007 said:
ok guys thanks very much
I have a question about pads.
What are the white ones for, the orange ones, the grey ones, the blue ones, and the red one?
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The white pads have the least cutting power(use white with polish)The orange has a medium range of cutting(use compound,swirl remover,polish). The yellow pad has the most cut power(i dont have a yellow). The grey also has no cut power and is best use for polish as well. The blue has no cutting power, so use it for wax, sealant, glaze and the red is the softest with no cutting power as well. You can use the red for wax or seal as well.

Get familiar with this chart. I have it blown up and printed in color and post in my garage. The last thing you want to do is reach for an orange pad to apply glaze.
Lake Country DA Foam Pads Comparison Chart

Here is what I do, I label all my pads on the side with a permanent marker. For example:
2 Grey Pads
One labeled polish on and the other grey pad labeled polish off


2 blue pads
One blue pad labeled wax on and the other blue pad wax off, but since I use the Nattys blue past wax. I apply it by hand, but you catch what I'm saying about having multiple pads

2 red pads
One for seal on and the other seal off... and so on.

My orange and white pads are labeled compound/polish


Im not real big on mixing two chemicals on the same pad, but I'd be curious to hear other techniques
 
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Thank you very very much for this. This makes it alot better for me!

Could you all school me on Foam pads, wool pads and Bonnetts?? Thank you
 
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CakeDaddy said:
The white pads have the least cutting power(use white with polish)The orange has a medium range of cutting(use compound,swirl remover,polish). The yellow pad has the most cut power(i dont have a yellow). The grey also has no cut power and is best use for polish as well. The blue has no cutting power, so use it for wax, sealant, glaze and the red is the softest with no cutting power as well. You can use the red for wax or seal as well.

Get familiar with this chart. I have it blown up and printed in color and post in my garage. The last thing you want to do is reach for an orange pad to apply glaze.
Lake Country DA Foam Pads Comparison Chart

Here is what I do, I label all my pads on the side with a permanent marker. For example:
2 Grey Pads
One labeled polish on and the other grey pad labeled polish off


2 blue pads
One blue pad labeled wax on and the other blue pad wax off, but since I use the Nattys blue past wax. I apply it by hand, but you catch what I'm saying about having multiple pads

2 red pads
One for seal on and the other seal off... and so on.

My orange and white pads are labeled compound/polish


Im not real big on mixing two chemicals on the same pad, but I'd be curious to hear other techniques
Click to expand...
I can understand you applying a wax or sealant with the grey/blue/red pad, but do you also remove with a pad? You can use a mf bonnet to remove, but I perfer to use a nice mf by hand for that.
 
Rsurfer said:
I can understand you applying a wax or sealant with the grey/blue/red pad, but do you also remove with a pad? You can use a mf bonnet to remove, but I perfer to use a nice mf by hand for that.
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yeah... true, but the less hand work the better for me. I do use the micoFiber to go around and hit the missed spots.

side note: I wish the Nattys can in liquid. Applying this by hand is a chore and the static electricity I create can hurt sometimes. Maybe I should do it bare foot. lol.

Anyone else get static while applying paste wax?
 
Some serious compounding to get rid of the photoshop effects.


Aggressive polish to clear up the blemishes.



Several coats of Fuzion to bing out its potential.


And hopefully this is what emerges.






 
CakeDaddy said:
yeah... true, but the less hand work the better for me. I do use the micoFiber to go around and hit the missed spots.

side note: I wish the Nattys can in liquid. Applying this by hand is a chore and the static electricity I create can hurt sometimes. Maybe I should do it bare foot. lol.

Anyone else get static while applying paste wax?
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Your the first guy I've seen that removes wax with a pad. Not saying it's wrong, but just never heard of it. IMO the pad will get caked with wax in no time and you would be smearing it on your paint.
 
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