What do y’all think of my price?

Eric7810

Eric7810

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2019
Messages
349
Reaction score
10
Local body shop owner had a guy come to him with a 1980 Corvette. The car had been repainted and has orange peel, customer wants it corrected.

Body shop told me he would sand it up to 2000 grit, buff it with his rotary and wool pad, and hand it to me to finish out and wax it.

Body shop quoted the customer 600 out the door. I told body shop I’d need 300. He agreed. Something tells me though this Vette owner is getting a deal.

Thoughts...?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Eric7810 said:
Local body shop owner had a guy come to him with a 1980 Corvette. The car had been repainted and has orange peel, customer wants it corrected.

Body shop told me he would sand it up to 2000 grit, buff it with his rotary and wool pad, and hand it to me to finish out and wax it.

Body shop quoted the customer 600 out the door. I told body shop I’d need 300. He agreed. Something tells me though this Vette owner is getting a deal.

Thoughts...?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I would have waited until the body shop was done with it before I quoted it to see exactly what I'm cleaning up.
 
Is a 1980 Corvette single stage paint, Or BC/CC?

And is working on painted fiberglass that has been sanded down different than sheet metal?

I have no idea, but I'm sure our body guys do..................
 
If they don't get EVERY one of the sanding marks out, you're going to have to and then you're kind of kicking yourself over the price. Like said above, I would have waited to see it.
 
All great advice!

Without looking it up I believe Corvettes didn't get clear coated paint until 1982 but who knows with the repaint. I'd FOR SURE wait to see what the bidyshop does, hope they check how much paint is on there before they get going with a rotory and wool

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Your taking it on the chin or at least risking it. All my "estimates" are based on the starting point and how far they want to take it. Something like this is no-doubt going to need a correction and given it's a re-paint over fiberglass that's wet sanded and hit with a rotary, there's a lot going on that could end up from one end of bad to the other of not so bad before you get it.

On that car, a one step AIO product $350 but the results will again be based on existing condition. Two step that and I'm up to $450. If it's really bad though, then I might hit him at $495.
 
Thanks for the responses guys. So helpful.

The last response gave me an idea that I will probably try; using HD Speed with 6-8 section passes and seeing what results I get.

I will be in close contact with the body shop. I wish I had done things a little differently, but I have a feeling this will be a learning experience.

Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
To get wool marks out I'd probably go with something a little more aggressive than Speed but will finish out. Something like TLD.
 
Here’s an update;

I got the job in and done today. I ended up taking the vehicle from him and doing the compound and polish myself. He wet sanded only.

It turned out great, but it was not fun. I used my Flex 3401 with a few 6” wool pads and 3D One to remove the sanding marks. It works, but you have to work your ass off. I wish I had had a rotary.

I finished it with 6.5” LC hybrid force orange pads and HD Speed.

I wish the body shop had used a pad to sand it, rather than pushing a piece of sandpaper with his finger tips.

Hit me with some thoughts and opinions..

c2d24b90d85ca3e00272cd207487c792.jpg

c0411d872227f817b8c07e215560804e.jpg

f8b4e13ce7a76757a212236077bad67e.jpg

cfc949f5019d6b4951ee61a4575af432.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Looks good from the pics but you should put a light directly to it and take a pic for honest opinions
 
I’m interested rather in the details of the job itself. Anybody ever removed sanding marks with a 3401 before? I will never do it again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Eric7810 said:
I’m interested rather in the details of the job itself. Anybody ever removed sanding marks with a 3401 before? I will never do it again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

A rotary would have helped.

A more aggressive compound like 3d ACA 500 or CarPro UltraCut would have made life a lot easier.

3m perfect-it 1 would have been another very good choice for this project.
 
That looks like a horrible job of sanding.

Now that its polished, can you see any ripples and waves in the finish attributable to the poor sand job? By what I can see in the pics I'd expect that answer to be yes.
 
I agree with 2blacks... Horrible sanding job... nothing uniform about those marks.

I used 3401 to get rid of sanding marks many of times but generally I work down to 3000 grits (5000 grits if the budget allows) sand paper prior to using the polisher. It comes off pretty easy just with a medium compound.

I think the ununiform sanding marks is the issue. I am sure there were deep gouges on the paint if they use their fingers to sand.
 
2black1s said:
That looks like a horrible job of sanding.
Click to expand...

I agree, definitely would have waited to bid this one until after for this very reason. If they are not cleaning up their own mess and with such a low quote to have it cleaned up it looks like they didn't give much consideration to the guy in the next step of the process.
 
This was a hell of a learning experience for me.

I did not chase after the deepest scratches, i would’ve spent an eternity on this if I had.

It was supposed to rain, but I got it done and to their shop before the rain started. After waiting 20 mins past the time I said I’d be there, I called the guy and asked if he was coming or not. He said his dad will be there in 15 mins and to drop the keys in the drop box, they’ll take care of it. I’ve heard that one before. Whether they got it inside before the T-storm I don’t know.

I didn’t notice significant waves in the finish, but the deeper scratches on the horizontal panels were the problem. He sanded harder on the hood and rear deck than anywhere else, and with his fingertips.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The best thing about this is you will never forget it. At least you made some pocket money but more importantly what you learned is priceless.
 
Eric7810 said:
This was a hell of a learning experience for me.

I did not chase after the deepest scratches, i would’ve spent an eternity on this if I had.

It was supposed to rain, but I got it done and to their shop before the rain started. After waiting 20 mins past the time I said I’d be there, I called the guy and asked if he was coming or not. He said his dad will be there in 15 mins and to drop the keys in the drop box, they’ll take care of it. I’ve heard that one before. Whether they got it inside before the T-storm I don’t know.

I didn’t notice significant waves in the finish, but the deeper scratches on the horizontal panels were the problem. He sanded harder on the hood and rear deck than anywhere else, and with his fingertips.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Its always harder to fix someone else's mistakes or bad approaches.


fly07sti said:
The best thing about this is you will never forget it. At least you made some pocket money but more importantly what you learned is priceless.
Click to expand...

Thats how I learn in general. Learning from the school of hard knocks. LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top