What filter do you use in your shop-vac?

KMdef9

KMdef9

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For those of you who spray, scrub then vacuum your interior upholstery, I'm curious what filter your running in your shop-vac (assuming you use one that has interchangeable filters).

The two options for a filter are:

1. A paper based one, which is ONLY designed for general dry things like dust, food crumbs, dirt etc.

2. Foam filter, which is ONLY designed for wet/damp debris and liquids.



When vacuuming up the cleaning solution from the carpet, your sucking up wet/damp debris and the solution it's self. I've previously been using a paper one myself. Just recently decided to replace the filter and this thought for the thread came up. I didn't check the filter status as it has been used for many other tasks around the house since I've done upholstery work.

It would be too much of pain to be changing the filter 2x per interior, let alone messy if alot cleaning is needed. I wonder if the foam filter could be used to vacuum up some dry debris?

Or am I not soaking up enough liquid for it to be a concern? I've never checked the filter after cleaning the carpets (don't do them daily for a business or anything). My concern with this idea is the filter could get wet, limiting the functionality by clogging up the vacuum and the potential for mold to grow.

Any experience/thoughts/concerns?
 
There are also GoreTex PTFE membrane filters with "very fine" and "ultra-fine" filtration. I use ultra-fine bags for dust-only pickup like garage floor dirt and wallboard dust, but the Gore pleated filter on its own for anything else.
 
Just to clarify. You *can* use the pleated "paper" (cellulose) motor filter for wet stuff, but just once unless you want to spread mouldy smells to every subsequent car. The filter won't fail, it will just clog a bit and get dirty right away, like a cotton mop cleaning a disgusting floor. The paper outer filter that slips over the foam one is dry-only, and only meant to protect the motor.

The foam motor filter alone is too coarse for *any* dry pickup, and is meant for only wet pickup. Using it alone for dry pickup will damage the motor.

The separate bags are meant for proper dry pickup and fine particulates, and should be used for that, along with a foam, pleated cellulose or PTFE motor filter.

The pleated PTFE filter is the best for detailing as it can be used to both protect the motor and filter out ultra-fine particulates, making your shop vac truly bagless like a Dyson.
 
SameGuy said:
The pleated PTFE filter is the best for detailing as it can be used to both protect the motor and filter out ultra-fine particulates, making your shop vac truly bagless like a Dyson.
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So where do you get them? Brand?
 
SameGuy said:
There are also GoreTex PTFE membrane filters with "very fine" and "ultra-fine" filtration. I use ultra-fine bags for dust-only pickup like garage floor dirt and wallboard dust, but the Gore pleated filter on its own for anything else.
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I know they make finer filters, but they still fall under the "dry only" filter category.

SameGuy said:
Just to clarify. You *can* use the pleated "paper" (cellulose) motor filter for wet stuff, but just once unless you want to spread mouldy smells to every subsequent car. The filter won't fail, it will just clog a bit and get dirty right away, like a cotton mop cleaning a disgusting floor. The paper outer filter that slips over the foam one is dry-only, and only meant to protect the motor.

The foam motor filter alone is too coarse for *any* dry pickup, and is meant for only wet pickup. Using it alone for dry pickup will damage the motor.

The separate bags are meant for proper dry pickup and fine particulates, and should be used for that, along with a foam, pleated cellulose or PTFE motor filter.

The pleated PTFE filter is the best for detailing as it can be used to both protect the motor and filter out ultra-fine particulates, making your shop vac truly bagless like a Dyson.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input.

That's what I figured. I'd be putting the mold into the air, potentially making myself and other sick, let alone putting the smell into the air.

Do you use the method I mentioned above? I'm curious what my choice is to help not damage my motor and not have to replace the filter so often.



Do the PTFE filters come for all makes/models? My detailing shop vac is a rigid.
 
I saw the paper style filters at WallyWorld the other day and check out for the same reason. These said the were worked wet or dry. If used, would probably be best to rinse, maybe bleach if wanted, and air dry
 
Good thread since I just got a Ridgid for Christmas thanks for the insight Francesco!
 
I have a Ridgid. I swap between foam for the wet stuff and paper for the dry stuff as necessary. It only takes two minutes to change them.
 
I see they sell those Gore filters at Home Depot, guess I never noticed them before.
 
SameGuy said:
You'd have to check which ones fit the Ridgid. The ones with which I have experience are Shop•Vac branded Gore CleanStream cartridges made with a pleated PTFE membrane. CleanStream is a Gore trademark so I'm pretty sure they make carts for all wet-dry vacs.

ETA: just googled, first hit is GORE CleanStream Wet/Dry Vacuum Filters and yes, they make carts for Ridgid vacs. :)

GORE CleanStream Universal Replacement Filters for RIDGID and Craftsman
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*Thanks button clicked* lol

Funny, because the "around the house" shop vac is a Craftsman. Just picked up a new dry (the one that's a step below a HEPA grade) and wet filter for it.

EVOlved said:
I just got a Ridgid for Christmas
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Same here!

damaged442 said:
I have a Ridgid. I swap between foam for the wet stuff and paper for the dry stuff as necessary. It only takes two minutes to change them.
Click to expand...

When changing the dry filter to wet, you probably need to walk down the street to get far enough away from the vehicle so you don't get that dust everywhere, lol. Do you rinse out or wipe down the inside before going to wet?

What's your vacuuming/upholstery cleaning regime?

Setec Astronomy said:
I see they sell those Gore filters at Home Depot, guess I never noticed them before.
Click to expand...

I'll have to take a look myself too.
 
KMdef9 said:
When changing the dry filter to wet, you probably need to walk down the street to get far enough away from the vehicle so you don't get that dust everywhere, lol. Do you rinse out or wipe down the inside before going to wet?

What's your vacuuming/upholstery cleaning regime?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I guess it was too early when I replied. The brain wasn't fully engaged yet. If and when I switch filters from dry to wet, I walk around into the backyard to keep the dust away from the vehicles.

I primarily use the Ridgid to get the dry stuff and get the carpets, seats and floor mats as clean as I can. If I need to get them wet, I will use the Bissell Little Green and some 303 Cleaner. If they are really bad, or if I have some serious water removal to do, then I swap out the filter and use the Ridgid for wet pickup. Yes, I rinse/wipe out the inside of it before going wet.
 
damaged442 said:
Yeah, I guess it was too early when I replied. The brain wasn't fully engaged yet. If and when I switch filters from dry to wet, I walk around into the backyard to keep the dust away from the vehicles.

I primarily use the Ridgid to get the dry stuff and get the carpets, seats and floor mats as clean as I can. If I need to get them wet, I will use the Bissell Little Green and some 303 Cleaner. If they are really bad, or if I have some serious water removal to do, then I swap out the filter and use the Ridgid for wet pickup. Yes, I rinse/wipe out the inside of it before going wet.
Click to expand...

Makes sense, thanks for input.

I'm looking to use my Rigid to do upholstery cleaning, might just have to check the filter after cleaning the carpets, see if the filter could be dried out after use, or how wet it gets in the first place.

Or should I just use the foam filter when cleaning the upholstery. With the little chemical I use to clean, I'm not sure I'm vacuuming up ALL damp debris, let alone liquid the whole time. Or I'll need to pre-vac the carpet even though it may not need it.
 
Actually I like that workflow the best. I have a bigger Bissell if necessary, as well as access to a Rug Doctor (older model) for more extraction, then switch back to the Shop•Vac for bigger "spot-extraction" jobs. I expect the Gore filter to outlast me, but it still needs cleaning after a while with dry pickup (I shake it out every time I empty dry contents, and rinse it every time I dump wet). Having a Bissell available is similar to having two polishers available with different BPs, handy, but not necessary.
 
The problem with using the foam only for dry pickup is that it allows dust and finer debris to pass, and re-distributes it throughout the area where you're working, whether that's a garage, shop, carport or under a shelter. That dust goes somewhere, and is likely going to be attracted to your just washed or polished paint.
 
SameGuy said:
The problem with using the foam only for dry pickup is that it allows dust and finer debris to pass, and re-distributes it throughout the area where you're working, whether that's a garage, shop, carport or under a shelter. That dust goes somewhere, and is likely going to be attracted to your just washed or polished paint.
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I'd only use the foam when doing carpet chemical cleaning. If I plan on doing just vacuum (on upholstery not being chemically cleaned) I'll go with the paper filter. I'm curious as to how the foam will do under chemical cleaning process. I spray the cleaner lightly, but when doing a whole car, I'm not sure how much liquid/damp debris is being vacuumed, enough to justify using the foam?
 
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