What I learned about applying a thin coat of wax

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addysdaddy

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Wanted to report back after my initial experience with the AF Spirit. First off, my paint was very clean but would not pass the plastic bag test. I nanoskined the entire car about two weeks prior so I didn't really want to do all that again but here in south Florida, 30 minutes after you clay a vehicle it needs to be decontaminated again. Hard to understand but that's a fact.

Anyway, the AF Spirit was without a question the easiest paste wax I've ever used during the application process. Used a P21s foam applicator and only did one 10/2 twist of the pad to coat the surface. Than applied that amount to half a panel and went back to the jar to reload with wax. So that's the good news.

The bad news is I waited 10 minutes and using two MF towels tried to buff off. It was like iron - had to use some detail spray to break the wax and even than it was a bear. On the next panel I tried applying using the same amount of product and only waited 5 minutes - same poor result. Finally on the roof, I did half a panel and then removed the wax immediately which yielded acceptable results. It wasn't Fuzion easy to remove but it was fine - you could still feel the towel breaking the wax and needed a "little passion" to remove all the residual wax. Whereas with Fuzion, there is absolutely no towel resistance whatsoever in the buffing process.

So obviously I'm completely dejected and believing I doing something wrong or is that what I should expect? The other bit of great news is that it looks fantastic on the Ibis White - very glossy & wet looking. Outstanding marks for the Spirit - so if I can just get the "process" down for this particular wax, it will clearly be my Go To LSP.
 
So after giving this much consideration and figuring my issues were operator error, I wanted (read needed) to fix it since it was clearly broken-I devised Plan B. Anyway here's my revised technique:

Prep
waterless washed the roof and trunk deck
nanoskin w/glide both panels - twice
paint cleanse with 3M Hand Glaze (by hand)
wipe down with Menzerna Top Inspection
paint was perfectly clean and easily past the plastic bag test!

Applying Wax
Took the P21s foam applicator and inserted into the Spirit pot, 12-10 twist to load pad with wax.
Over half a panel I "kissed" the paint with the applicator multiple times to spread the wax. Basically "dabbed" the applicator onto the paint. Hard to believe that much product was loaded onto the foam. Clearly I over applied when doing the process by hand the first time - big time.
Set Flex on speed 1 with black hybrid pad and proceeded to spread the wax evenly over the half panel. Did not prime the black pad
Repeated process on the other half panel
Waited 10 minutes for the wax to setup. Note that the wax was virtually translucent and extremely difficult to see on the white paint. I basically had to trust the fact that I was actually spreading it over the paint.
Wiped off with "normal" amount of effort using a short nap MF towel (Microfiber Madness Yellow Fellow towel). It was easy (no complaints at all) though not Fuzion easy. There was just a hint of the towel breaking the wax and you could feel a minor amount of resistance. The wax now performs more in line with what I was expecting and the paint looks super. VERY NICE
Did this in the evening inside of a closed garage. Temp was around 85 degrees and humid. My guess is with the doors open and a breeze during the day, the process will be even easier. I am now officially a happy camper. Again the Spirit looks fantastic on the white paint it's just I like it more since I had to work a lot less.

FWIW, I did try removing the wax immediately after spreading it (WOWO) but that didn't work as well as waiting 10 minutes. Many of the small nuances get lost, so I really hope my experience will save some forum members a little time and effort. Truth be known, I really thought I was applying the thin coat on my initial go round but clearly that was not the case. Special shout out to Nick for all the hand holding - ur the best buddy!
 
addysdaddy said:
Than applied that amount to half a panel and went back to the jar to reload with wax. So that's the good news.

The bad news is I waited 10 minutes and using two MF towels tried to buff off. It was like iron - had to use some detail spray to break the wax and even than it was a bear.

On the next panel I tried applying using the same amount of product and only waited 5 minutes - same poor result.

Finally on the roof, I did half a panel and then removed the wax immediately which yielded acceptable results.
Click to expand...


Thanks for sharing the above and it shows the importance of doing some testing to individual panels BEFORE applying a product that is new to you to an entire car.

:dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2:



For anyone reading this into the future, if you're about to use a wax or sealant that you've NEVER used before, there's a real simple tip shared in this article that might save you a lot of time, energy and labor plus save your arms and possibly our paint...


A tip for working with waxes, paint sealants or coatings that are new to you


Tip: Test to small area first
Anytime you're going to use a wax, paint sealant or coating that is a product you've never used before, especially if you're planning on applying it to the entire car... to get a feel for how the product applies and most important, how it wipes off, first test the product to a small area.

This way you'll be familiar with the application and wipe-off characteristics for the specific product before applying to the entire car.


A small area = about a foot squared
The average size square microfiber towel is 16" by 16", which is a little larger than a foot squared. So for your test section, lay a clean microfiber towel out flat, like this,

MicrofiberTowel001.jpg



Then use this area as a guide as to how large of an area to apply the product onto in order to get a good feel for both the application and wipe-off characteristics of the new-to-you product.


Follow the manufactures directions
Manufactures know their product formulas best so take a moment to read the directions for application and removal on the label and then follow them as recommended.

Waxes and Paint Sealants that dry
If the directions state that you should allow the product to dry to haze before removal then allow the product to dry before removing it.


The Swipe Test
Here's a handy test to check and see if a wax or paint sealant is dry and ready to remove, The Swipe Test


Wipe-on, wipe-off waxes and paint sealants
Some products are formulated to be removed before they dry, these are called wipe-on, wipe-off waxes. If you're using a wipe-on, wipe-off wax then immediately after applying the wax to the entire car go ahead and remove it.


Products vary and climatic conditions vary
The chemistry between products can be very different; some products wipe off a tick on the difficult side while some products wipe off incredibly easy.

Products perform differently in different environmental conditions; a product that applies and remove easily in a humid area may apply and wipe off with great difficulty in another geographical location that's hot and dry.


The idea behind this tip is for you to become acquainted with a product you've never used before in your specific geographical, environmental and climatic location.


For some people, what this may teach them is the importance of applying a thin coating and if you're new to the world of detailing in general and waxing by hand in specific, you might not know 100% exactly what is meant by a thin coating and you don't want to learn what thin means the hard way.


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The author of the OP is describing the exact same experience that I had w Spirit. That's why I traded it away and have kept my Fuzion.
 
One of the reasons I love Meg's NXT liquid wax is the fact it goes on easy and buffs off like no other wax/sealant I evet used.
Like most waxes it last 2-3 months.

Now I'm using WG Glossy Paint Sealant.
You get an amazing nuba look that last a long time and it's so easy to apply and a pleasure to wipe off.

So for me now I'll only use WG sealant.
Best of both worlds.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using AG Online
 
I had a similar experience with Auto Finesse Temptation.

Applied, what I thought, a thin coat but was a PAIN to remove, like HUGE PAIN.

But instead of simply reloading my applicator (foam), I just went to the next panel and spread what I thought was basically little to no wax. Only a very, very thin and barely visible coat of wax.

Ironically, removing what I thought was basically a "no" wax coat seemed much better. I've used Pinnacle Souveran paste and that, to me, is probably the easiest wax to apply and buff. So, with the super, super thin coat from AF Temptation, the buff effort was slightly higher than Souveran.

I really like AF and their products but I may reconsider switching back to Pinnacle Souveran for my paste wax needs.....
 
willtothewong said:
Ironically, removing what I thought was basically a "no" wax coat seemed much better. I've used Pinnacle Souveran paste and that, to me, is probably the easiest wax to apply and buff. So, with the super, super thin coat from AF Temptation, the buff effort was slightly higher than Souveran.

I really like AF and their products but I may reconsider switching back to Pinnacle Souveran for my paste wax needs.....
Click to expand...

I agree with Souveran being so easy to apply and remove. I won't use anything else. Amazing product, by far my most enjoyable product to use.
 
Thanks Mike...I wish I had decided on doing those test panels straight away but unfortunately I wasn't that smart. The hard way seems to be a very good teacher in my case - least i didn't do the entire car.

Comments about applying what seems to be virtually no wax I believe to be spot on. Going to try "kissing the paint again" and than spread by hand to see if I can get the same result. Also, two coats will ensure complete coverage so I'm not worried about missing any spots. Love the final results with the AF Spirit though and I'm more than willing to work for the shine, just don't want to break my back in the process.

And Mike's comments about using a new product is so so true. Though I have lots of experience with many LSPs, the AF was completely out of my box. Once I refined my technique it was actually a pleasure to use and a smile replaced that horrified on my face.
 
Dr Oldz said:
I have read this somewhere. ;)
Click to expand...

Yep, u da man Jim. And as you suggested, the Spirit looks sensational on the white. Couldn't have done it without you buddy, truly appreciate your insights and assistance - especially after the first round when it was feeling rather ugly.

:urtheman::urtheman::urtheman:
 
I have also experienced the same issue. I currently do a wowo to a 30 sec. wait depending on the panel size. Spirit is my current favorite look on metallic paint.

THE worst I've had to deal with was Bouncers Satsuma Rock. I however take 150% responsibility on that one though. They don't lie when they said it cures to a rock hard shell.
 
When I did my research on Spirit there wasn't a great deal written about the proper application method-hopefully this thread will help. Like most things in life, right tool for the right job. It would be a shame to miss out on such a good product simply due to the lack of proper technique.
 
I agree on probable over load of wax. P21S is the easiest wax to buff that I have worked with.
 
One of the reasons I love Meg's NXT liquid wax is the fact it goes on easy and buffs off like no other wax/sealant I ever used.
Like most waxes it last 2-3 months.
Click to expand...

I agree it is easy to use but I didn't care at all for the way it darkened colors. Two to three months amazes me....2-3 weeks was the best longevity I ever saw. Gave it away to someone I didn't like.
 
Peddiesake said:
I agree on probable over load of wax. P21S is the easiest wax to buff that I have worked with.
Click to expand...

I would agree that one of the attributes I favor in any LSP is "easy off." But I wouldn't use that as my sole criteria for selecting a particular wax. Everyone draws their own line and is willing to do so much - up to a point. So choose carefully. I found that though AF Spirit can be a bit more work to remove if not applied correctly, it's worth the effort for me.

Back in the day, all I used was P21s and Zymol Carbon - that were both super easy to work with and looked great. Love the fact they are both still sold today. The P21s 100% is on my list along with a few others to try.
 
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