What is the best and safest way to clean an engine?

budman3 said:
It isn't the engine you have to worry about... things like the altenator, fuse boxses, coils, etc is what you need to be careful with. Same with the air box... If you spray down into an altenator and let it sit for 4 hours before starting or drying the engine I think you'd have a problem... as for Ford vs. BMW vs. Audi... they all have engines and the same parts... just one costs a lot more than another.

Now back to Lauren's original question... the safest way to clean an engine... don't use water. If it is fairly clean and you can keep up with it, follow killrwheels advice of using a damp towel and maybe some APC to clean the accessible areas and then dress with some type of protectant... do this every month or two and you won't run the risk of wrecking and engine component during a detail.
I sprayed water into the alternator and let it sit for a few hours no problems, i dont doubt that it can cause damage in some cars, but i see no problems so far with BMW, PORSCHE, MASERATI, and AUDI. I guess if i ever do an older car i will cover stuff up.

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It has nothing to do with car type, you have just been lucky so far. Just because it has happened yet, doesn't mean it can't. I use water to, but I try to avoid a lot of those areas.
 
greg'sgoat said:
It has nothing to do with car type, you have just been lucky so far. Just because it has happened yet, doesn't mean it can't.

I must have some luck than hu?
 
Thejoyofdriving said:
I sprayed water into the alternator and let it sit for a few hours no problems, ... so far with BMW, PORSCHE, MASERATI, and AUDI.
I am no Madam Chloe but I have no problem clearly seeing huge repair bills in your future.
 
ZoranC said:
I am no Madam Chloe but I have no problem clearly seeing huge repair bills in your future.

Well, i hope not. I dont see how water can do any damage to a well designed engine. I would be interested in some scientific evidence that water can cause damage to engine components. I know that usually water and electronic components dont mix but there are acceptons. and so far i have had no problems. so lets see some data.
 
budman3 said:
Now back to Lauren's original question... the safest way to clean an engine... don't use water. If it is fairly clean and you can keep up with it, follow killrwheels advice of using a damp towel and maybe some APC to clean the accessible areas and then dress with some type of protectant... do this every month or two and you won't run the risk of wrecking and engine component during a detail.

Ok, so I gather this is the answer...otherwise, this is a confusing thread!!!

How do they keep those old sshowcar engines so clean?? That just isn't gonna do it.
:confused:
Maybe i will call my dealer.
Maybe.
if i remember....
 
ltoman said:
How do they keep those old sshowcar engines so clean?? That just isn't gonna do it.
One of posts mentioned, but nobody was paying attention to it, what I consider best solution: Steamer.
 
I'm just sharing my experiences. While I have never had a problem with MOST engines, if not careful and unsure of the engine make-up.... you could cause some major damage.
While I'll soak the engine of my Avalanche and my wife's Santa Fe with no issues, if I took the garden hose to the LT1 motor of the Trans Am I had it would be an expensive fix.

Lauren, for what it's worth, when I cleaned the engine of my Trans Am I did it all by hand with spray bottles. I'd spray small amounts (cleaners and straight water) and wipe it with a rag/ cloth. I would do each section/ item at a time to be careful not to allow too much liquid to find it's way to the opti-spark (distributor). Most "showcars" are just that, for shows. The only road time they see is to and from the show. Not much of a chance for too much dirt and grime to settle.
A daily driver however will see the best and worst driving conditions.
 
Zoran doesnt give up easily, trust me.

budman, there is a HUGE difference between Ford and Audi's engine design in respects to water resistance.

As you can see from the pictures, everything is sealed extremely nicely. Not NEARLY as many exposed wires, sealed sensors, covers, etc.

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Now dont get me wrong, Im not saying you dont have to be careful, or you shouldnt cover things up, or its okay to use a pressure washer. Because NO MATTER WHAT ENGINE Im working on, I ALWAYS cover things up, and NEVER use a pressure washer or strong stream of water.
 
D&D Auto Detailing said:
Zoran doesnt give up easily, trust me.
ROFLMAO

D&D Auto Detailing said:
Now dont get me wrong, Im not saying you dont have to be careful, or you shouldnt cover things up, or its okay to use a pressure washer. Because NO MATTER WHAT ENGINE Im working on, I ALWAYS cover things up, and NEVER use a pressure washer or strong stream of water.
... as doing so is a common sense. It can not get much simpler than that (logic wise).
 
ZoranC said:
When it rains and car is not moving water does not soak engine vertically down. When car is moving water droplets (droplets, not 100% density water) is following flow of air, which means lots of it gets pushed to the sides of the engine or above the engine, but it is not falling vertically down, and what does fall down is much less intense than wash straight down.


Simple Green full strength does not end up staining anything for you?

What about puddles on the road? Water splashes up UNDER the engine (some cars have a shield under the car, my moms E class does), but most cars do not.

And simple green does not stain anything, but i do not use it on polished or chorome accesosories (intakes, etc), because i dont know how it will react. I should really try it on some scrap polished aluminum and see how it reacts.
 
I just spray a good degreaser on the engine, then spray with a garden hose on medium to foam it up, then spray it off. Never had any trouble on any of our vehicles, newer vehicles are pretty well protected. Now I don't just force water into the alternator lol. This is on everything from our high end sports cars, to Ford trucks. If you keep your engine clean, Armor All Tire Foam (regular) is excellent as it cleans and protects leaving a nice look.
 
Ask 100 detailers how to clean an engine and you will get 100 different answers. It is just one area where everyone has their own technique and beliefs, there is no simple tried and true and well agreed upon method.

The products and technique are really not the important part, but some common sense is needed. While directly spraying the engine with product and a garden hose (not pressure washer) will in most cases not cause any harm, it takes 2 - 5 minutes to protect your work and is a very small price to pay to protect your customers or your own vehicle. You might know your own vehicles well and know what needs to be protected (if anything) and what does not. But imagine working on a customers car, and when you finish the job the engine will not start because the alternator is waterlogged. You just gave them a free detail, and possibly need to protect yourself in court when the dealer deny's warranty service. Most vehicles do not need anything to be covered, but it takes no time to do and should always be done.

When I worked at Lexus, we would always use a low power pressure washer to spray down the engine with no concern, until, a late 80's early 90's mazda pickup failed to start, and then a nissan 300zx failed to start. the pickup was because of water in the coils, the z was from water in the alternator. Lesson learned.

Thejoyofdriving: Ignorance will not protect you forever, you now have 3 reports of cars failing to start, it does happen.
 
investinwaffles said:
What about puddles on the road? Water splashes up UNDER the engine (some cars have a shield under the car, my moms E class does), but most cars do not.
Take a look at underneath of the engine's and tell me what you see there that would get damaged by water splash. Anything?

investinwaffles said:
And simple green does not stain anything
Please search through few detailing forums on staining by Simple Green.
 
Thejoyofdriving said:
if you let it dry it does.


some info on simple green

The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.


Hope this helps

AL
 
Al-53 said:
some info on simple green

The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.


Hope this helps

AL

Simple green has a fairly mild PH(9.5), compared to other cleaners which have a PH of 12. One of simple greens main purposes is to clean engines, so it safe, its a very big company and i like their products, i really like that they are enviromentaly friendly. I dont doubt your info though, it makes sense,where did you get it.
 
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