What is the BEST Finishing/Jeweling polish to use AFTER Meguiars 205 with a Flex or PC for that extra gloss?

Not exactly. I, too, thought WPPE wasn't abrasive until I read the product write up on AG where it talked about micro fillers (this was a couple years ago).

That got me thinking...I called AG and was told that indeed WPPE had extremely fine particulates that might work in jewelling. However, AG had not tried using it in a jewelling application and they said "Give it a try, it can't hurt." So I tried it and it worked great.

Regards,
GEWB
Then, what exactly is the definition of a micro-filler? If it works then run with it. Mike P and I got into a discussion when he started with AG and determined that both wolfgang PPE and pinnacle PCL were non-abrasive. Unless a filler is slightly abrasive.:dblthumb2:
 
Then, what exactly is the definition of a micro-filler? If it works then run with it. Mike P and I got into a discussion when he started with AG and determined that both wolfgang PPE and pinnacle PCL were non-abrasive. Unless a filler is slightly abrasive.:dblthumb2:
Yup, I remember that discussion you had.

As to the make up of fillers, I have no idea. I do know that virtually all solids are "abrasive" to some degree, even talc (which I have used as a polish).

At least you and Mike agreed on "if it works then run with it" which is exactly what I did.

Regards,
GEWB
 
Anyone try Meguiars #82 or ColorX after 205 with the Flex 3401 and if so did it add any gloss or extra pop to the finish?
 
Bringing back this old thread.

With all the new chemicals and technology out now, is there a Jeweling polish out there better than Menzerna P085RD? Looking for highest gloss, depth and clarity.
 
HD Polish / Carpro Reflect / Scholl Concepts S40 are all great finishing polishes and have supplanted P085RD / 4500 for me.
 
One to try is D302 on a foam finishing pad if one want's to saty in the Meguiar's family.
 
One to try is D302 on a foam finishing pad if one want's to saty in the Meguiar's family.

Let us know how it goes with the D302 and foam

D302 by itself has no cut. It relies on the MF polishing pads to provide the cut
 
Bringing back this old thread.
I like the fact that you did! :props:

With all the new chemicals and technology out now, is there a Jeweling polish out there better than Menzerna P085RD? Looking for highest gloss, depth and clarity.
•If it doesn't have to be a jeweling-polish, having any of the all new chemicals and technology that can be considered "better" than Menzerna P085RD...
-I'll say: 3M Ultrafina Polish.

•If it has to be one of the newer/latest jeweling-polishes (not so sure if it contains any of the "newer" chemicals/technologies, or not) that can be considered "better" than Menzerna P085RD...
-I'll say: GTechnq P2 Jeweling Polish (if still available)


Bob
 
Thanks for your thoughts.

HD Polish / Carpro Reflect / Scholl Concepts S40 are all great finishing polishes and have supplanted P085RD / 4500 for me.

How so Mel? Like in final gloss output or ease of use, working time etc?

I like the fact that you did! :props:


•If it doesn't have to be a jeweling-polish, having any of the all new chemicals and technology that can be considered "better" than Menzerna P085RD...
-I'll say: 3M Ultrafina Polish.

•If it has to be one of the newer/latest jeweling-polishes (not so sure if it contains any of the "newer" chemicals/technologies, or not) that can be considered "better" than Menzerna P085RD...
-I'll say: GTechnq P2 Jeweling Polish (if still available)

Bob

Looking for ultimate gloss, wow factor without leftover polishing oils.


You see here's the thing. The 1st time I polished my car, I used Poorboys SSR line (about 7 yrs ago). The subsequent year I polished and removed all the swirls. I found a bottle of P085rd I had lying around (never used it at the time) and coupled it with a black finishing pad.

After I finished my first panel jewleling with 85RD, I was gobsmacked at the gloss, sharpness/clarity and depth it brought to my soft black paint...it was like a pool of black ink under shiny lights, it had the zip, that ZING! that WOW Factor that left me turning around to see my car everytime I walked away from it. That's when I knew 85RD was worth the extra jeweling step.

So, these days I've yearning to learn if there's anything even better out there as the the tech in all these chemicals has been advancing these past few years.
 
I was thinking about this today after just finishing coupounding and polishing my car. The car with nothing on it looks dripping wet/glossy whatever you call it, just from the polishing. I was excited to use a new wax (100% carnauba) and a carnauba spray wax I just picked up. I did half the hood and buffed it off, then applied the spray wax. Results....I couldn't tell a difference at all :( I don't know if that is a bad thing though b/c the paint is so nice after all the work, I just thought I'd see some difference, but nothing, it looked dripping wet before, and after the other products. Maybe the Pinnacle Soveuran will have a difference as this is my next product to try...
 
Thanks for your thoughts.



How so Mel? Like in final gloss output or ease of use, working time etc?



Looking for ultimate gloss, wow factor without leftover polishing oils.


You see here's the thing. The 1st time I polished my car, I used Poorboys SSR line (about 7 yrs ago). The subsequent year I polished and removed all the swirls. I found a bottle of P085rd I had lying around (never used it at the time) and coupled it with a black finishing pad.

After I finished my first panel jewleling with 85RD, I was gobsmacked at the gloss, sharpness/clarity and depth it brought to my soft black paint...it was like a pool of black ink under shiny lights, it had the zip, that ZING! that WOW Factor that left me turning around to see my car everytime I walked away from it. That's when I knew 85RD was worth the extra jeweling step.

So, these days I've yearning to learn if there's anything even better out there as the the tech in all these chemicals has been advancing these past few years.


Bump^
 
For a show car finish, jewling with a rotary is a must. Ive jewled with a DA and a rotary and the finish with the rotary was far more outstanding. With the da it looks nice, but not like the rotary.

I just got some of this polish. The only thing I have used my rotary for is heavy cutting. Will you please go over the process you use to jewel with your rotary??

I've used Optimum finishing polish on a black pad on a Black Acura. It was like a mirror, but if there is something that can put even more gloss on it I sure do want to know about it.
 
D301 does have more cut than D302

You should do a comparison of D302 vs D301 on foam.
Your paint may like.one combo better than the other

I'm not going to do a comparison between the two. I'm going by what Mike Stoops recommended on using the D302 Microfiber Polish on a foam finishing pad as a "jeweling" polish after using M205. After reading the post again he has a typo in it. Should be D302 and not D301. I may try using this method the next time I polish with M205.
 
In my opinion, the best jewelling polish is either a fine cut or ultra fine cut polish. In my first how-to book, both the first and second edition, there are 4 standardized categories for dedicated abrasive paint correction products (compounds and polishes).

Every dedicated compound or polish on the market can be placed into one of these 4 groups.




Aggressive Cut Compound
A very aggressive liquid or paste that uses some type of abrasive technology to cut or abrade paint quickly. In the body shop world, compounds are used to remove sanding marks. In the detailing world, compounds are used to remove deep below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spot etchings. Depending upon the abrasive technology and the application method and material, some automotive compounds can remove down to #1000 grit sanding marks. Of course topcoat hardness is an important factor that affects compound effectiveness at removing below surface defects.

Historically, the more aggressive the compound, the more follow-up polishing will be required to restore a defect-free finish. Due to major advancements in abrasive technology, the trend is for very aggressive compounds that finish out like medium and even fine polishes.

In most cases an aggressive compound should be followed with either a medium polish or a fine polish to refine the surface to a higher degree of finish quality than the results produced by only the compound. Most compounds are dedicated products in that their function is primarily to abrade the paint. For this reason, after the compounding step further polishing and then sealing steps are required. Most compounds are water-soluble so that they can be washed, (dissolved with water and soap), off body panels and out of cracks and crevices.



Medium Cut Polish
A liquid or paste that uses some type of abrasive technology to cut or abrade the paint but is less aggressive than a true cutting compound. Depending upon the abrasive technology and the application method and material, some medium polishes can remove down to #2000 grit sanding marks and finish out to LSP ready. Topcoat hardness is an important factor that affects a medium polish's effectiveness at removing below surface defects.

Most medium polishes are dedicated products in that their function is primarily to abrade the paint. For this reason, after the polishing step further steps are required, which may include another final polishing step depending upon the results after using the medium polish and the expectations by the user for the end results. At a minimum, the paint should be sealed with a wax, paint sealant or coating.



Fine Cut Polish
A liquid or paste that uses some type of abrasive technology to cut or abrade the paint but is less aggressive than a true medium polish. Depending upon the abrasive technology and the application method and material, some fine polishes can remove down to #2500 grit sanding marks while still finishing out LSP ready. Topcoat hardness is an important factor that affects a fine polish's effectiveness at removing below surface defects.

Most fine polishes are dedicated products in that their function is primarily to abrade the paint. For this reason, after the fine polishing step further steps may be required. This could include another final polishing step depending upon the results after using the fine polish and the expectations by the user for the end results. At a minimum, the paint should be sealed with a wax, paint sealant or coating.



Ultra Fine Cut Polish
A liquid or paste that uses some type of abrasive technology to cut or abrade the paint but is less aggressive than a true fine polish. Depending upon the abrasive technology and the application method and material, some ultra fine polishes can remove down to #2500 grit sanding marks while still finishing out LSP ready. Topcoat hardness is an important factor that affects an ultra fine polish's effectiveness at removing below surface defects.

Most ultra fine polishes are dedicated products in that their function is primarily to abrade the paint. For this reason, after the ultra fine polishing step at a minimum, the paint should be sealed with a wax, paint sealant or coating.





So if you want to jewel your car's paint with a rotary buffer or some other tool, then get a fine cut to an ultra fine cut polish and a soft form jewelling pad.

We jewelled the paint on this Corvette....


Jeweling
Next we continued to use the same polish but switched over to 5.5" Gold Jewelling Pads

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Tips on how to jewel paint using a rotary buffer
Before starting, we went over a few tips and techniques for how to jewel paint when using a rotary buffer.

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Less than the weight of the machine
This is showing that we're actually using a little bit less than the weight of the machine for the last few passes for this section.

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Jewelled paint....

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Another phenomenal contribution from Mike P. Thank you. I have been refining my techniques at jewelling and am happy to say i have found and do most of those things. I also have a few gold LC pads but they are bagged and marked solely for my LSP applications.

I have lately gone with my DA for this refinement step having read so much about their effectiveness. I used to finish it out with my rotary and will now go back to that with an ultra cut polish and pad. I love PO 85 for this step and have used it after Megs 205. I now can't wait to try some new tricks with Mike's tips!
 
Whats the best Jeweling method to use via a RO buffer like the Flex 3401?
 
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