What is this and why is it happening?

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StuffNthings

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Hello Autogeek, I have been browsing these forums for quite a few months but have just recently registered, so hello to all.

I am somewhat new to machine polishing and am having an issue finishing out nicely. I am using a GG 6" with a 5" LC BP with either an orange CG hexlogic pad or Megs MF cutting disc teamed with CG v36. I am using CG V38 for a final polish along with either a white or black hexlogic pad. I am using proper technique and working the product correctly. However, upon completion I am getting these stupid markings everywhere that are only really visible in direct sunlight. I'm not sure if its considered marring or not. I have tried my best to picture in the below photos.

So, I'm curious as to what is causing this. Again, I am using proper technique while making anywhere from 5-6 section passes applying appropriate pressure when needed and overlapping passes by 50% while moving in a cross-hatch pattern. For residue removal I am using a super soft and plush CG silk lined microfiber (which are awesome BTW). Sorry, not sure why the pictures are sideways.
 
Did you wash the micro fiber before using it? Also, have you tried using a detail spray to do a quick wipedown afterwards? And last but not least, are you buffing the product off with medium pressure and descent speed? You may also have a super soft clear...... hope Im looking at the same thing in the pics lol
 
What kind of car is it? Repaint?


I've had this happen before. Assuming your pad and towels are clean - and your technique is correct, you have to figure out a few things:

1. You have to figure out if the buffing process is installing the defects, or if the defects were there and the buffing process is just not removing them.

2. If buffing is the cause of this, you need to figure out if:

a. Your finishing polish step is causing this

b. Your correction step is causing this and you finishing polish step is not cleaning it up.

If the buffing process is the cause of this (likely) I find the easiest solution is simply just switch to another pad and polish. It's hard to tell from the pics exactly how bad it is, but either way, I would start with clean pads and another finishing polish. This may not be the news you want to hear if you only have one finishing polish on hand.

I would try to "clean it up" with a finishing pad first (other polish). If that doesn't work - try a polishing pad (other polish). I'm assuming you've tried both with your current finishing polish?

Either way, isolate a test spot and try remedy it. Just make sure you are able to see the defects - or you will never know if you are getting anyplace.
 
swanicyouth said:
What kind of car is it? Repaint?


I've had this happen before. Assuming your pad and towels are clean - and your technique is correct, you have to figure out a few things:

1. You have to figure out if the buffing process is installing the defects, or if the defects were there and the buffing process is just not removing them.

2. If buffing is the cause of this, you need to figure out if:

a. Your finishing polish step is causing this

b. Your correction step is causing this and you finishing polish step is not cleaning it up.

If the buffing process is the cause of this (likely) I find the easiest solution is simply just switch to another pad and polish. It's hard to tell from the pics exactly how bad it is, but either way, I would start with clean pads and another finishing polish. This may not be the news you want to hear if you only have one finishing polish on hand.

I would try to "clean it up" with a finishing pad first (other polish). If that doesn't work - try a polishing pad (other polish). I'm assuming you've tried both with your current finishing polish?

Either way, isolate a test spot and try remedy it. Just make sure you are able to see the defects - or you will never know if you are getting anyplace.
Click to expand...

:iagree: totally, plus some towel marks altogether (but main cause may be that stated above).

I'll tell some story to illustrate you a way for understanding that better:

Once I've saw some video demonstrating use of products (mainly polishes) while switching polisher speed up and down during polishing cycle.

Detailer started with slow speed spreading polish over work area, done 1-2 complete passes, then cranked speed up to 6 to work abrasives for some more passes until getting rid of paint defects, then reduced speed again to do more passes to 'finish out his own defects' that would be induced by the time while working abrasives against the paint.

(doing this is not new and even already has the name of someone's technique).

More example: there's a thread running on this forum from Mike (Smack) regarding his technique while using Menzerna polishes.

Since priming the pad with some quick detailing and 4 dime drops of polish (not covering entire pad face with polish), to doing more passes (like 6 or more) while decreasing pressure on the head of the polisher while doing the last passes...

I've done that with great success. Will this or that techniques work all the time? Sure not!

Don't take it like you'll have to be switching speed and pressure all the time (remember, objective is uniform material removal), just try to feel if paint responds better with more / less pressure or not, what speed, what kind of product you are working, etc


Please, I don't want to make it look like rocket science (since it's not), but no way it'll always be the same technique, you'll have to figure out how the paint you're working responds to what you're doing.

Tip to start asking the paint: Go gently. It's better to under remove defects at first, to figure out you need a step up than going cutting like crazy to discover you now will have a huge mess to deal with.

Try to pay great attention while doing test spot since the closer you get from the step up needed, the closer to perfection you'll achieve. Test spot may also be refereed as 'sensibility adjusting'. Paint is THIN, so this refinement is an important part of the whole process.

Try to use your experience to start the lower but not to low from what you think will work, since using non-abrasive polish and non-abrasive pad to start on a severe neglected finish will be too far from step up needed (~obvious, but just to illustrate), causing you more work to get better answer on what step up from this low.

Rule of thumb is polishing pad (~white) and finishing polish is a good start for almost everything. From there you can stay, step up or down.

Some paints may finish out on compounding step, while others may need that blue finessing pad and fine cutting polish.

In your case I would start with a finishing pad and a finishing polish, but that's looking from thousand miles away, from pictures, and your talk.

I wish you good luck and all the best to deal with this, I'm sure you'll be able to solve it out.

Please, if possible, let's follow up your results!

Count on me if need anything.

Good luck, mate,

Kind Regards.
 
Thank you all for the tips.

Yes, the microfiber has been cleaned prior to use. I have tried using quick detailer to wipe down afterwards with the same results. As far as product removal, I tend to wipe it off it smaller motions. After the majority has been removed I then flip the towel and buff the remaining off. Now, In regards to the clear on the car I have found it to be rock hard, especially noticeable compared to my brothers Toyota Tundra. BTW, the car here is a 2003 Jetta GLI with original paint.

These defects are definitely caused by the polishing process. They are not defects that were there that are getting left behind. I do plan on trying different pads along with a different polish, I just have not done so yet.

I will check back with results as soon as I switch up a few variables
 
I never had any issues with V line polishes. Just some back round. You can work them a long time before they flash out. I never have had dusting issues with any of the polishes. If you are getting dusting then you worked them to long. The last thing regarding V series polishes are they have lots of lubrication in them even though they are water based. I would suggest doing a IPA wipe down between correction steps. You may not be getting all the compounding residue off before you step to the finishing polish.
Another quick thing that I did not see mentioned is surface prep. Are you claying then washing again before you polish. Clay residue if very little can mar your paint if a pad picks it up.
 
I do not get dusting out of the v36 or v38. I have never used v32 or v34 so I can't comment on dusting with them though I would expect them to have some. Interesting about washing after clay. Yes, this car was clayed but not washed afterwards.
 
It looks like marring from the towel you are using to wipe off the spent polish. I would try something like a quick detailer or Eraser to help remove the polish residue while also offering a lubricant to help the towel glide across the paint without causing more defects.

If all else fails you may need to try new towels. Best of luck!
 
you could be picking up clay residue.
You can try a test panel. Wash a section, clay, wash again then do an IPA wipe down when you switch to your finishing polish and see if the issue is resolved. Do it right on top of the current marring and see if you fix it. That's two things you can rule out clay residue and polish residue still on the paint when you switch polishes.
 
It's marring. I like to call them DA holograms. Instead of long, thin rotary holograms, they tend to be vertical and only a few inches long.

Most likely a soft paint and the finishing step is not correcting the compounding step.

I had this problem when I first started working with mf pads. I've since worked it out. I had the most problems with soft acura/honda paint.
 
Tato, made excellent points about how to correct the issue. I can't really expound on it any further.
 
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