What is your method for using a drying aid?

CC268 said:
D155 wouldn't clog up your towels at least...
Click to expand...

I'm still against drying aids... The way I see it, they just make for more liquid on the surface to have to dry.
After my sheeting rinse there's very little water on my vehicle. I just pinch my waffle weave at the ends and swipe by the drivers side, then the passengers side, then lay across the hood, pull the towel across 3 times to cover the hood, then 1 swipe across the trunklid and then grab a second towel and spot dry with Master Blaster Sidekick. Bone dry in about 7-10min.

The way I see it, if I were to use use a drying aid it would only result in me having to rub excessively on the paint. Which not only increases the chances of marring the paint, but degrades my lsp with the unnecessary rubbing against the paint.
With my drying towel and very little liquid to dry, I simply have to drag the towel over the paint and it's dry.
 
If you spray a quick detailer or quick shine whatever the product is called while its wet it will act as a lubricant so when you shammy its easier and less likely to drag on the paint.

If you have a good sealer or wax on the paint it should minimize scratching from a shammy.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 
Ford Fest said:
I see several posts about what everyone's favorite drying aid is, but haven't seen what the method is for using a drying aid. I'm looking for help with drying the car after washing. I'm the guy that thinks owning black cars is a good thing, until they are dirty; then not some much. Today, I use a handheld blower, followed by a waffle weave towel. It works okay, it seems the towel does glide across them paint as well as I would like. I have a few options on hand for Rinseless/waterless wash and detail spray.

Please se let me know your method for drying your car and when/how to use the drying aid.
Click to expand...

i have a black car and i have washing it down to a science, i use a pressure washer, i spray the car with soap, rinse, spray soap again to side of the car at a time and mitt wash, buckets, spraying the mitt with soap from the pressure washer after it comes out of the bucket, rinse thoroughly, then

Drying...
first use my waterblade on the hood, then squeegee the windows, then use the water blade gently on all panels, then pat dry with a waffle weave guzzler towel, which i love. it really soaks up the last of the water easily. i dont even use any of my other drying towels, i don't need them. after all this i wipe it down with crystal mist spray detailer. looks unbelievable after its done like i just waxed it.
 
Eldorado2k said:
I'm still against drying aids... The way I see it, they just make for more liquid on the surface to have to dry.
After my sheeting rinse there's very little water on my vehicle. I just pinch my waffle weave at the ends and swipe by the drivers side, then the passengers side, then lay across the hood, pull the towel across 3 times to cover the hood, then 1 swipe across the trunklid and then grab a second towel and spot dry with Master Blaster Sidekick. Bone dry in about 7-10min.

The way I see it, if I were to use use a drying aid it would only result in me having to rub excessively on the paint. Which not only increases the chances of marring the paint, but degrades my lsp with the unnecessary rubbing against the paint.
With my drying towel and very little liquid to dry, I simply have to drag the towel over the paint and it's dry.
Click to expand...

by "drying aid" are we talking about spray detailers? they certainly dont just add more liquid to dry, they make the paint look great, way better then drying alone, and if we're talking something like the crystal mist carnauba detail spray that i use, then they fortify the wax and bring it right back to life, it greatly extends the life of the lsp also. i see no down sides
 
i don't care how many microfibers i use on my car for doing anything, i have a hundred of them and i use the microfiber detergent, it brings them right back to life
 
pro 4x said:
Tradional wash with foam gun/buckets. Then I flood rinse the xterra. Then I grab a WW drying towel and my drying aid of choice. Currently it is meguiars shine as you dry. Spray it on a section at a time and dry. This extra step as prolonged my LSP to new levels. I do this after every wash.

There are several good drying aids. I have used Griots spray on wax and PRIMA WAX AS YOU DRY was made for this. It is one of the best I have used.

Prima Hydro Wax As You Dry Spray, spray wax

Griots Garage Spray-On Wax 35 oz.

The Megs is a OTC product that you can get locally. After just one use so far, it also as impressed me.
Click to expand...

exactly, these spray waxes and detailers extend the life of your lsp not degrade it in any way, try crystal mist detail spray its nice, or for a cheaper local one the turtle wax ice spray detailer is pretty good and it can be used in direct sunlight which is helpful
 
BrilliantFinish said:
If you spray a quick detailer or quick shine whatever the product is called while its wet it will act as a lubricant so when you shammy its easier and less likely to drag on the paint.

If you have a good sealer or wax on the paint it should minimize scratching from a shammy.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I don't have any doubts going in when it comes to drying mine or any vehicle. I'm not even overly cautious either. I don't do pat drying, or use plush towels. [I recently bought a Chemical Guys Orange Fatty and don't really like it] My waffle weaves never drag like that plush towel does.. I just dry the car quikly, I either lay the towel on the paint and drag, or if it needs a firm wipe in order to dry then no problem. The paint on my hood shows me there's nothing to be overly cautious about.

View attachment 52140

Since the time when my paint was fully corrected, I've only done a light polish twice in 2 yrs. once with M205 on a finishing pad, and once with Essence with a Gloss pad just to test it out. [3 times if you include the time I machine applied Megs Black Wax]

My paint has no swirls.

View attachment 52141

fightnews said:
exactly, these spray waxes and detailers extend the life of your lsp not degrade it in any way, try crystal mist detail spray its nice, or for a cheaper local one the turtle wax ice spray detailer is pretty good and it can be used in direct sunlight which is helpful
Click to expand...

From my personal experience, using any kind of toppers or spray waxes as drying aids or wax boosters has only resulted in the degradation/altering of my lsp for the negative.

How do I figure? Well before I became so interested in trying all the nice stuff that's availiable as far as spray sealants, drying aids, toppers, wax boosters, etc... Before I went and loaded up on alot of my current stock I didn't have all the stuff I currently have on my shelves. All I had as far as lsp was my lsp... And you want to know how long I made it while still passing the baggie test? 10 months. 10 months my paint was smooth, until I began dabbling with "drying aids"

Megs D156 was the 1st to open my eyes to it. IMO what happens is the topper transforms [either gradually or instantly, depending on its formulation, and also depending on the current level of protection left on the paint by your base layer of protection] --- The topper eventually transforms whatever you've got on there into it.. And while that may sound like a good thing at 1st, that weak little layer it leaves behind is highly suspect not too long after its been applied in comparison to your durable sealant. [of course that depends on whether your choice of sealant is any good to begin with]

All I know is once I started putting all these trendy forms of protection on my paint I found myself having to clay about every 2-3 months all of a sudden. Never made it full 3 months before my paint failed the baggie test after a wash. I hated that. Last 2 products that failed so miserably were Megs Black Wax, which made it a mere 16 days before my paint felt like sandpaper.. And then Carpro Reload as a stand alone lsp failed to protect my paint from bonded contaminants after just 1 month. My paint was rough as stubble on every panel. Garbage.

If you look at the date on these pictures, you'll see it was this past April when I finally got fed up with all these bogus "toppers" for the last time and flat out quit using them ever again on my paint. I started over. Clay, iron decon, and sealant. I did this on both the Kia..

View attachment 52142

And the Cadillac.

View attachment 52143

View attachment 52144

And this past weekend when I went to wash and re apply sealant to both of them guess what? They both passed the baggie test perfectly. 5 months in smog filled LA. I plan on seeing 10 months again and hopefully even more before having to clay my paint again.

View attachment 52145

I'm not into claying every month... Who settles for that? Not me. I prefer my paint to be smooth at all times.

Sorry for the long post but that's my reasoning. I'll never use a so called lsp booster on my paint. I don't like their results.
 
Eldorado2k said:
I don't have any doubts going in when it comes to drying mine or any vehicle. I'm not even overly cautious either. I don't do pat drying, or use plush towels. [I recently bought a Chemical Guys Orange Fatty and don't really like it] My waffle weaves never drag like that plush towel does.. I just dry the car quikly, I either lay the towel on the paint and drag, or if it needs a firm wipe in order to dry then no problem. The paint on my hood shows me there's nothing to be overly cautious about.

View attachment 52140

Since the time when my paint was fully corrected, I've only done a light polish twice in 2 yrs. once with M205 on a finishing pad, and once with Essence with a Gloss pad just to test it out. [3 times if you include the time I machine applied Megs Black Wax]

My paint has no swirls.

View attachment 52141



From my personal experience, using any kind of toppers or spray waxes as drying aids or wax boosters has only resulted in the degradation/altering of my lsp for the negative.

How do I figure? Well before I became so interested in trying all the nice stuff that's availiable as far as spray sealants, drying aids, toppers, wax boosters, etc... Before I went and loaded up on alot of my current stock I didn't have all the stuff I currently have on my shelves. All I had as far as lsp was my lsp... And you want to know how long I made it while still passing the baggie test? 10 months. 10 months my paint was smooth, until I began dabbling with "drying aids"

Megs D156 was the 1st to open my eyes to it. IMO what happens is the topper transforms [either gradually or instantly, depending on its formulation, and also depending on the current level of protection left on the paint by your base layer of protection] --- The topper eventually transforms whatever you've got on there into it.. And while that may sound like a good thing at 1st, that weak little layer it leaves behind is highly suspect not too long after its been applied in comparison to your durable sealant. [of course that depends on whether your choice of sealant is any good to begin with]

All I know is once I started putting all these trendy forms of protection on my paint I found myself having to clay about every 2-3 months all of a sudden. Never made it full 3 months before my paint failed the baggie test after a wash. I hated that. Last 2 products that failed so miserably were Megs Black Wax, which made it a mere 16 days before my paint felt like sandpaper.. And then Carpro Reload as a stand alone lsp failed to protect my paint from bonded contaminants after just 1 month. My paint was rough as stubble on every panel. Garbage.

If you look at the date on these pictures, you'll see it was this past April when I finally got fed up with all these bogus "toppers" for the last time and flat out quit using them ever again on my paint. I started over. Clay, iron decon, and sealant. I did this on both the Kia..

View attachment 52142

And the Cadillac.

View attachment 52143

View attachment 52144

And this past weekend when I went to wash and re apply sealant to both of them guess what? They both passed the baggie test perfectly. 5 months in smog filled LA. I plan on seeing 10 months again and hopefully even more before having to clay my paint again.

View attachment 52145

I'm not into claying every month... Who settles for that? Not me. I prefer my paint to be smooth at all times.

Sorry for the long post but that's my reasoning. I'll never use a so called lsp booster on my paint. I don't like their results.
Click to expand...
I agree. Claying is aggressive and shouldn't need to be done more than once a year if the paint is maintained.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 
Rodinator said:
I like Uber Rinseless in a 16oz spray bottle .5 oz the rest distilled water. I've tried ONR, ONRWW, detail juice, and mixed with distilled water they all work well. I have yet to try D156 but it's next on my list.
Click to expand...


how did you like the uber compared to detail juice?
 
Eldorado2k said:
I don't have any doubts going in when it comes to drying mine or any vehicle. I'm not even overly cautious either. I don't do pat drying, or use plush towels. [I recently bought a Chemical Guys Orange Fatty and don't really like it] My waffle weaves never drag like that plush towel does.. I just dry the car quikly, I either lay the towel on the paint and drag, or if it needs a firm wipe in order to dry then no problem. The paint on my hood shows me there's nothing to be overly cautious about.

View attachment 52140

Since the time when my paint was fully corrected, I've only done a light polish twice in 2 yrs. once with M205 on a finishing pad, and once with Essence with a Gloss pad just to test it out. [3 times if you include the time I machine applied Megs Black Wax]

My paint has no swirls.

View attachment 52141



From my personal experience, using any kind of toppers or spray waxes as drying aids or wax boosters has only resulted in the degradation/altering of my lsp for the negative.

How do I figure? Well before I became so interested in trying all the nice stuff that's availiable as far as spray sealants, drying aids, toppers, wax boosters, etc... Before I went and loaded up on alot of my current stock I didn't have all the stuff I currently have on my shelves. All I had as far as lsp was my lsp... And you want to know how long I made it while still passing the baggie test? 10 months. 10 months my paint was smooth, until I began dabbling with "drying aids"

Megs D156 was the 1st to open my eyes to it. IMO what happens is the topper transforms [either gradually or instantly, depending on its formulation, and also depending on the current level of protection left on the paint by your base layer of protection] --- The topper eventually transforms whatever you've got on there into it.. And while that may sound like a good thing at 1st, that weak little layer it leaves behind is highly suspect not too long after its been applied in comparison to your durable sealant. [of course that depends on whether your choice of sealant is any good to begin with]

All I know is once I started putting all these trendy forms of protection on my paint I found myself having to clay about every 2-3 months all of a sudden. Never made it full 3 months before my paint failed the baggie test after a wash. I hated that. Last 2 products that failed so miserably were Megs Black Wax, which made it a mere 16 days before my paint felt like sandpaper.. And then Carpro Reload as a stand alone lsp failed to protect my paint from bonded contaminants after just 1 month. My paint was rough as stubble on every panel. Garbage.

If you look at the date on these pictures, you'll see it was this past April when I finally got fed up with all these bogus "toppers" for the last time and flat out quit using them ever again on my paint. I started over. Clay, iron decon, and sealant. I did this on both the Kia..

View attachment 52142

And the Cadillac.

View attachment 52143

View attachment 52144

And this past weekend when I went to wash and re apply sealant to both of them guess what? They both passed the baggie test perfectly. 5 months in smog filled LA. I plan on seeing 10 months again and hopefully even more before having to clay my paint again.

View attachment 52145

I'm not into claying every month... Who settles for that? Not me. I prefer my paint to be smooth at all times.

Sorry for the long post but that's my reasoning. I'll never use a so called lsp booster on my paint. I don't like their results.
Click to expand...

no thats cool everyones different ive had good luck with them, my father has a 2007 truck thats never been clayed and it feels smooth after he washes it. right now im using souveran paste wax, then crystal mist and thier spray was after i wash and i couldnt be happier with it. but i realize everybody wouldn't be happy with it. its all up to the person
 
fightnews said:
no thats cool everyones different ive had good luck with them, my father has a 2007 truck thats never been clayed and it feels smooth after he washes it. right now im using souveran paste wax, then crystal mist and thier spray was after i wash and i couldnt be happier with it. but i realize everybody wouldn't be happy with it. its all up to the person
Click to expand...

A couple days after posting I couldn't help but think about how I may have come across the wrong way.. Meaning I'm not totally against drying aids, I mean on my personal vehicles I don't use them, but on others they work totally great. For example on a vehicle like this I totally love spraying some D156 as a drying aid.

View attachment 52303

It's pretty remarkable how smooth the paint is afterwards + I bet it'll have some beading now.

Black car washing in direct sunlight. I checked the temperature with my infared thermometer before I started and it read 171 degrees! [not my idea to wash it in the sun but I had no other option]

View attachment 52304

D156 saved me from the nasty waterspots that were on the paint after washing it. So I'm not totally against drying aids. They work great, just on my cars I prefer not messing with what's already on there.
 
gregory1420 said:
how did you like the uber compared to detail juice?
Click to expand...

I can't tell a difference really. They are both good products when used in the proper dilution ratio. I'm not a professional detailer I just like to clean cars for my self. I do like Detail Juice on the interior, I have yet to try the Uber on interior panels.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top